Im tearing into the front axle on my 1990 W250 to replace the bearings and U-joint and I cant get the axle nut off....I have a 2-9/16" socket for the rear axle but it is a bit too small for the nut, so I went to NAPA and got a 2-5/8" socket. The new is socket is too big to go into the hub (the outside of the socket hits the splines of the hub). Very aggravating, truck has been apart for three days now because of my work schedule, ***!
This is not the jamb-nut style of axle nut, its a regular old hex nut.
Any ideas?

 

hmmm.... Just went and checked the socket I usally use and it is 2 9/16" So I don't know what ya got going on??

 

Hey, i got the 2 9/16inch socket form napa, its slightly to small but will bite just enough to loosen and tighten the nut, the nut isnt that tight on there so the 2 9/16 should work, it did for me and my bro. Hope this helpls


jason

 

Thanks for checking. I thought the front and rear would be the same, but the 2-9/16" just wont go on. It worked fine on the rear axles.

 

I would guess somebody put a metric nut on there, or it's 2-19/32". My local shucks auto will rent tool's, and they have an axle nut socket set for rent.

 

It should be 2 9/16 thats what mine is

 

Use a cold chisel. I don't have any sockets for either of the nuts. You can also cut up the end of a piece of pipe, just leave two tabs on either end, and weld something square to it so you can turn it. I always have used a cold chisel though.

 

Thats correct, it wont go on, you have to kinda put it on at a slight angle and then i hammered it a bit, and it worked fine, or take a dremel and hit the inside corners of the socket and you should be good to go.


Jason

 

This is my method. I have a "special" broken screwdriver I keep in my box just for this thing.

 

Screwdrivers work too. I always wanted to buy the correct sockets, but I always spend the money on the parts, although stuff is getting cheaper.

 

Hahahahahaha same here ill pay for the go fast goodies, but i improvise with the tools


jason

 

That nut was a 2-9/16 when it was fresh and new.

What happens is Tom Dick and Jill use chisels and what-not to loosen/tighten the nuts until they get all buggered-up.

If you can't coax it off with the socket, then carefully walk it off with a DULL cold-chisel; use a sharp one and it will dig in deeply, making a bigger mess than you already have.


Once the nut(s) are out, CAREFULLY use a fine grinder and file to clean them up,until the 2-9/16 socket fits them well.

I have ran into this scenario many many times and a little filing/grinding always takes care of the problem.


I have only one axle-nut socket, a 2-9/16, and so far it has worked on every 3/4- and 1-ton axle-nut that I have ran into, regardless of make, after I clean up the damage; I can't remember which it was, Ford Dodge or GM, but, for some reason, many years ago I had to slightly grind the outer corners of my socket to get it to clear.

 

What it is, it depends on your socket manufacturer. Possibly whether or not your 2 9/16 socket is 6 point or 12 point. My pos socket from napa wouldn't go on that one very well either. I just clearanced the corners of the socket with a burr bit. Still works great for the rounded corners on the rear nylock nut and the sharp 6 point corners of the old style double nut. A friends socket from a different manufacturer fits both nuts without modification.

 

I have been down this road. I had to buy 3 sockets to get the front end apart on the '89. You need to go to NAPA or other GOOD parts house and get a socket. It will likely be an OTC.

Like this:

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/otc1904.html

NOT this, its specially made for the rear, but the desciption is wrong:

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/otc6928.html

 

Thanks for all the responses.
Well I got it apart and put back together. The problem was the socket, I had the rounded style. I ended up grinding out the corners.
Got the u-joint replaced and replaced the bearings as well. Hopefully no more jerky steering.