Appreciate the compliment!

It was incredibly satisfying to do this technique, and am glad my researching had reminded me of it. Back when I worked in the machine shop and I watched one of the older fabricators doing it, and always thought to myself I wanted to try it! Now I have this itch to do some more of it, and a few extra supplies to do it, may have to see if I can find someone local who needs something repaired.

Received all my bearings, rings and seals as well, so once I get this block epoxied and cleaned up real well, I’ll be able to start buttoning everything back up. Aside from welding a couple fittings in the pan for the new drain locations, I should have most everything I need to get it back to a running state.

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This also came with the parts order, because, why not?

The pictures and write up on the stitching of the block was very cool to follow along.
Nicely done.

You will need to adjust / modify the VE injection lines a bit to work with that 2nd gen Banks intake.
But after what I just saw with the block stitching, I feel confident in you finding a way.

I am personally interested in your fix as I have a couple of those intakes used in my collection of old greasy parts and they would look cool on one of my 1st gens motors.
IIRC it looks like the injection lines and the grid heater will be vying for the same real estate regardless of using the OEM '89-'91.0 or the '91,5-'93 injection lines.

Came very close to cutting the intake plenum off, porting and putting an individual runner intake manifold on. Only reason why I didn’t is because I want to get this project finished someday, and adding more ‘things’ do so just pushes the finish line so much further ahead. So the twin ram was a compromise, as it will help balance the distribution better then stock at least, and it lets me just carry on with finishing the project.

I have no idea how I will modify the injector lines yet, one of those problems I need to have in front of me before I can figure out a solution. I saw BC847 has done it, so I at least know it can be done. Will be sure to post the process when it comes time for it.

Not much of an update.

Just reassembling the engine, and unfortunately waiting on a new single set of pistons rings to come in for tomorrow, so I can finish putting the last piston in. Did not notice the edge of the oil ring caught on the edge of the ring compressor, and when I gave’r the squeeze it did not survive.

Put the 60lb springs and valves in the head, and once the last piston is in I’ll proceed to putting the head and studs in.

Did get a couple 1/2” nipples welded in the pan. Used the old mig at work and could not get the old girl to give me a consistent feed speed, so the welds were nothing pretty to look at, so I ground them smooth and jb welded it.


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Looking forwards to getting a welder back into my tool collection. Will be picking up a Lincoln 210 Multi Process.

Well got the last piston in and the head placed, not torqued down yet.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...192c89ea6.jpeg
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Bringing my pedestals in to get milled down tomorrow so I can finish. Was not planning on having to do this, as my understanding was that I could just bottom tap to bring the studs down enough to clear the valve covers with a little modification to the ribs, but turns out this arp kit I bought was designed specifically for milled pedestals and has shorter studs.

It was a bit of a good thing though, because it showed me something I would have missed. When I was taking the rockers off two of them were slightly seized. In their normal range of motion they moved freely, but past that they were binding. Something had gotten in there at some point and did a little damage to the bearing surface. The rockers worked past it but gouged the surface a little. A little careful work with the dremel and it will be good to go.

I really want to put one of those intakes on my truck the problem I have is I modified and put third GEN dodge Hydro boost and master cylinder on mine And I hate to spend the money to find out that it does not clear

Will be running hydro on this truck as well, so will keep yea posted.

I've been debating on going with the ARP studs on the 215 P-pump I am building for my '85 CrewCab. If I remember the old studs required the block to be bottom tapped, but ARP changed that a few years ago. I just read something about the short studs failing at #3 cylinder. If the OE head bolts weren't TTY I would just retorque and proceed.

You have a great build right there. I'll keep watching.

BHD,
Sorry, but I have to ask TTY?

Torque To Yield

Cummins even makes a tool to check the stretch.

Cummins part # 3823921

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I got grade 10 bolts from fastenal I'm going to try on my next head gasket. Under $100 for a set.

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Studs are in.

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And picked up a new toy 😁

Aside from prepping and painting the block, am now well and truly at the point of waiting on weather again. Shouldn’t be too far away now, just need it to be warm enough to paint outside then I can move things into the shop to cure. Just need to lay some urethane then I can start buttoning the chassis and drivetrain back together finally, then things will really start rolling along to the point of body fabrication/placement.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...82cccaf73.jpeg
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Friend delivered the cab last night. Don’t know how this body managed it, but there is hardly a trace of rust on it!

Did some quick measuring and it looks like I will need to bring in the F550 mounts in one inch on each side, and have plenty of material to do it. Had I of had the shop, time and resources I would have done this step before the epoxy, instead now I will have to do touch ups, oh well.

Can hardly wait to get the chassis put back together and engine mounted so I can place the body and get a better idea of the stance. Come on warm weather!