I just purchased a 91 CTD and love it!!! I might add only 2 grand for this thing!! I still kept my Yoda for really beating on but I bought this truck with 185k, one owner, only a few scratches on original paint!!! So I'm really interested in putting an aftermarket intercooler... Also the 16cm housings??? do they put out enough power/smoke to be worth it? Is exhaust a better first step?

 

The 16cm housing won't produce any more smoke. It will provide quicker spool to help the truck come alive earlier.

For mods, I would recommend:
1. Gauges (Pyrometer at least, preferably also a boost gauge)
2. Exhaust
3. Pump mods (http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/mor...r/Power_ve.htm)
4. If it's an auto, maybe a shift kit

That should wake the truck up quite a bit. Does the truck have the 21cm housing? It should be cast in the back of the turbine housing, toward the firewall where the turbine housing meets the manifold.

Let us know what your plans are for the truck and whether it's a stick or an auto and we'll be able to give better advice.

 

But, WHY in the WORLD do you want smoke, especially at $2.50-300 a gallon for fuel? It is wasted money, IMO (though the money is entirely your business; I'd just prefer you save some up and send it to me in a lump sum). Also, it makes a lot of people angry when you deliberately blow smoke at them. People with that attitude are why diesels have been so slow in being accepted in the US, coupled with GM's dieselgate of the late 70s.

The days of SMOKE= POWER passed about 18-20 years ago, when Banks came out with turbo kits for the old Chevy and Ford diesels. then Dodge came out with the Cummins, and it was a different ballgame. It boggles my mind when people want to TRY To be offensive to others. It is more prevelant around here, but I have noticed it in other places as well. I offend people without actively trying- I'd be in jail if I actively tried. If you are loaded to your max GCVW, and blow a puff of smoke that clears up after 2-3 seconds as you accelerate, then fine, it's an older rig.

NOW, to answer your questions-

The 16cm housing is a good compromise between ultimate spoolup and retaining higher RPM flow. A bigger impellar housing may or may not enhance your spooling. I wouldnt recommend anything smaller than a 16 if you tow a lot- you will need the higher RPM /higher load flow to avoid higher EGTs.

I would say get some gauges in there first (go for 40+ psi- with your stock injectors, you will need it) and establish a baseline. Put the pyrometer probe in the manifold, the intake has a 18NPT plug behind the dipstick plate about 3" behind the AFC hose for the boost gauge line. Drill a 1/2" or so hole to gain access, and then install the line for your boost gauge. Also, a fuel pressure gauge isnt a bad idea- the VE injector pump doesnt like prssures much below 3 or 4 psi.

Depending on smoke, power, MPGs, etc, you may or may not need fuel system work (injectors, pump). Drive it a while and see how you like it. Many will disagree, but I see no reason at all for any of these trucks to get less than 18-20MPG hwy if driven reasonably (limit speed to about 68-72mph; few if any full throttle starts, etc).

Daniel

 

The sweet spot for 20mpg was 65mph with the 4.10s in mine.

 

I have a 5-speed with a 18cm stock housing. I just thought that more smoke helped with power. I'm not trying to be rude and also I will be pulling a horse trailer so massive amounts of smoke is out of the question!! I just ment a little smoke when turbo whines up. I have a piller on the way and I'm going to get a pyro next paycheck. Also how bad can you screw up your truck by trying to adjust the fuel. I'm a noobie and I don't want to try messing with the fuel pin if I can really screw something up

 

More low end fuel does tend to help the turbo spool quicker. A smaller exhaust housing will help with spool, without causing more smoke. Once the turbo is spooled, I don't like to see any smoke.

 

Define spooled. Sorry if that seems stupid, but I just don't know exactly what we mean when we say that. My boost runs anywhere from 6psi cruising to around 26psi at WOT under load. At what point would we consider it spooled?

 

I generally consider it spooled after about 8-10 psi. I don't know how others would define it, and "spooled", I'm sure, varies tremendously depending on truck, turbo, etc.

 

I'll bump this post cause I am curious to. Wannadiesel should know.

 

As gman07 said it matters on truck and turbo. My general defintion would be when the powerband starts by your seat of pants o meter, generally if you have smoke before this it will start to clear up because the turbo is now moving enough air to burn the fuel in the cylinders without much smoke. I do not consider my turbo spooled until about 12 psi but. My brother has a 93 with 16 housing and pump modified,timing,hx35,stacks,o-ring, port&polish,exh.man,head and valve work,studs. 10 psi in neutral and has enough fuel to spool almost instantly compared to stock. When it starts to sing or whistle pretty good it is spooled.

 

It's spooled when the boost comes up rapidly.

 

Mine is spooled when it sounds like a whole herd of Hoover's are sitting in the cab with me.

 

I think I get it now. Thanks! Seems like mine is spooling pretty good nowadays.

 

And also what is a 3200 spring??? I'm not quite sure what it will do and will it be effective enough for the price or hassle??

 

Everyone who regrets installing the 3200 RPM spring raise your hand.

No one?

A 3200 RPM spring raises the max governed speed of the engine, it gives you another 700 RPM of useful power. You know that annoying gap in the gearing between 2nd and 3rd? A 3200 RPM spring lets you wind it up higher in 2nd so when you make that shift you have enough RPM to pull 3rd. It also lets you run 65 MPH in 4th, which is very helpful with a load on. In addition, it makes the truck feel much more responsive because the stiffer spring gives you more control over the fuel. For the $15 or so a pump shop will charge you for the spring it is absolutely the best money you can spend on a 1st gen.