12v Minivan, not enough power-4 problems
12v Minivan, not enough power-4 problems
Hello everyone.
To start off, I would like to begin with a disclaimer:
I have done this all myself, in the dirt next to the garage (too tall, doesn't fit) with a heavy hand on the welder and a "wing it" attitude.
I have done my best to modify things in an intelligent manner, and have researched across forums for topics and past builds to try and answer my questions as best as possible. However, as one might expect, not many applications really are similar enough to gain all the relevant information I need.
I would also like to apologize for how much I write. I tend to do that a lot. But I can promise that if you spare a few minutes at nothing else, you might get a good laugh and I can guarantee that this is going to be one of the strangest builds that you have seen.
***[Head to the bottom of the post if you want to bypass details and just read my problem]
So here goes the details:
1988 Dodge Caravan body
1990 W250 Non-intercooled 12v, and the running gear from said W250 (along with a heavily chopped and modified frame to fit)
GVWR: ~8400lbs with some tools and me the driver
Transmission: NV4500HD with upgraded input shaft, fixed 5th gear, and SBC dual disk clutch with hydraulics (should hold way more power than ill ever make)
Everything beyond this point is homebrew.
New engine build: (sorry if this is more information that desired, just want to put it all out there)
Stock block, bored 20 over.
Stock Non-intercooled cam (slightly longer duration and higher lift than intercooled cam if I am correct) with bronze cam retainer.
Billet oil squirters (instead of those plastic ones).
Stock crank.
Higher output oil pump.
20 over MARINE pistons (a poor choice, more on that later).
20 over cummins head gasket.
2nd gen (oops, more on that later) new (thicker cast) cylinder head, O-ringed.
ARP 2000 head studs.
Hamilton hardened tappets, heavy duty pushrods, 110# valve springs.
Billet freeze plugs all around.
Rear cylinder coolant bypass kit (Homebrew, surprise).
Fuel system:
Injection pump: Bosch VE Rotary Style Injection Pump (Yes, intentionally not a p-pump, though perhaps misguided).
Pump mods: All adjustments fiddled with, max fuel up a bit, BD fuel pin and 3200 GSK.
Injectors: 1990 Non-intercooled stock injector bodies and internals, with tips from Bosch 370 Marine Injectors (more on this later too).
Timing: Gear skipped one tooth (~10deg advance) and pump rotated to head.
Fuel supply: Stock lift pump fed by locally adjacent surge tank primed with Racor P510MAM Multipass fuel polisher drawing from twin 15gal fuel cells
AEM water-methanol injection system with single-port injection right before the intake manifold.
Air system:
BHAF (donaldson filter element)
Emergency Air Shutoff Valve (backwards 102mm Mustang throttlebody)
4" intake piping from filter to atmospheric turbo
Borg Warner S472 Atmospheric Turbo
3" charge piping to Turbonetics 61mm T3 high pressure turbo.
Gigantic Russian made 200psi pressure tested Water-Air intercooler core unit. Uses Meziere inline water pump and stock caravan radiator for heat exchanger
Turbonetics Evolution 38mm wastegate to bypass high pressure turbo
Twin Synchronic Synapse Blow Off Valves hooked to throttle switch + solenoid system (currently disabled for testing/leaks)
D.P.S. 3-piece exhaust manifold
4" exhaust with 36" FTE resonator and 36" MBRP resonator, less than 8' of pipe from turbine to exit
Gauges:
Low pressure boost
High pressure boost
Low pressure turbo drive pressure (exhaust)
High pressure turbo drive pressure (exhaust)
Water temperature
Intake Air Temperature
Oil Pressure
Fuel Pressure
Voltage
Exhaust Gas Temperature
Drivetrain:
NV4500 HD as stated above
NP205 transfer case, twin-sticked with interlock pins removed
Stock front driveshaft
Shortened rear driveshaft
Gearing: 3.07 (I think, supposedly that was on the 1st gen non-intercooled automatic equipped trucks, which is what I cannibalized)
35" (more or less-315/75/R16) Goodyear Duratrac tires
A pair of ARB air lockers (sitting in their boxes on my workbench...nobody has enough time to do everything)
RedHead steering box relocated with modified drag link, sporting dual steering stabilizers.
Factory front brakes, disc conversion on rear axle with k20 front calipers.
Hydroboost braking unit with in-line cooler.
Bonus: Smittybilt X20 17,500lb winch that mounts on front or back of vehicle.
Electrical system is all done by me, and is more complicated than i'd like to share, but everything works spectacularly on the electrical side. There is no room in the engine bay for batteries, so there are 3x Northstar AGM batteries in a sub-floor box behind the rear axle.
Entire vehicle has an altogether too overbuilt structural roll-cage throughout to prevent pop-can-like crushing in any sort of rollover mishap.
Phew. Alright, I think that is everything important. If I have left anything out, or if there is anything you need clarification on, please just ask.
I know this is a very strange thing to build, but I have strange tastes and a rather unfortunate amount of perseverance.
Also, the goal for this vehicle is not BIG POWER. It is more in the mind of the best fuel economy I can get, while still having enough power to zip around, occasionally pull my little car hauler trailer, and do a burnout if the need arises. Though ultimately it is "supposed" to be an adventure vehicle to drive around the country and play in the dirt.
Continued in next post...
To start off, I would like to begin with a disclaimer:
I have done this all myself, in the dirt next to the garage (too tall, doesn't fit) with a heavy hand on the welder and a "wing it" attitude.
I have done my best to modify things in an intelligent manner, and have researched across forums for topics and past builds to try and answer my questions as best as possible. However, as one might expect, not many applications really are similar enough to gain all the relevant information I need.
I would also like to apologize for how much I write. I tend to do that a lot. But I can promise that if you spare a few minutes at nothing else, you might get a good laugh and I can guarantee that this is going to be one of the strangest builds that you have seen.
***[Head to the bottom of the post if you want to bypass details and just read my problem]
So here goes the details:
1988 Dodge Caravan body
1990 W250 Non-intercooled 12v, and the running gear from said W250 (along with a heavily chopped and modified frame to fit)
GVWR: ~8400lbs with some tools and me the driver
Transmission: NV4500HD with upgraded input shaft, fixed 5th gear, and SBC dual disk clutch with hydraulics (should hold way more power than ill ever make)
Everything beyond this point is homebrew.
New engine build: (sorry if this is more information that desired, just want to put it all out there)
Stock block, bored 20 over.
Stock Non-intercooled cam (slightly longer duration and higher lift than intercooled cam if I am correct) with bronze cam retainer.
Billet oil squirters (instead of those plastic ones).
Stock crank.
Higher output oil pump.
20 over MARINE pistons (a poor choice, more on that later).
20 over cummins head gasket.
2nd gen (oops, more on that later) new (thicker cast) cylinder head, O-ringed.
ARP 2000 head studs.
Hamilton hardened tappets, heavy duty pushrods, 110# valve springs.
Billet freeze plugs all around.
Rear cylinder coolant bypass kit (Homebrew, surprise).
Fuel system:
Injection pump: Bosch VE Rotary Style Injection Pump (Yes, intentionally not a p-pump, though perhaps misguided).
Pump mods: All adjustments fiddled with, max fuel up a bit, BD fuel pin and 3200 GSK.
Injectors: 1990 Non-intercooled stock injector bodies and internals, with tips from Bosch 370 Marine Injectors (more on this later too).
Timing: Gear skipped one tooth (~10deg advance) and pump rotated to head.
Fuel supply: Stock lift pump fed by locally adjacent surge tank primed with Racor P510MAM Multipass fuel polisher drawing from twin 15gal fuel cells
AEM water-methanol injection system with single-port injection right before the intake manifold.
Air system:
BHAF (donaldson filter element)
Emergency Air Shutoff Valve (backwards 102mm Mustang throttlebody)
4" intake piping from filter to atmospheric turbo
Borg Warner S472 Atmospheric Turbo
3" charge piping to Turbonetics 61mm T3 high pressure turbo.
Gigantic Russian made 200psi pressure tested Water-Air intercooler core unit. Uses Meziere inline water pump and stock caravan radiator for heat exchanger
Turbonetics Evolution 38mm wastegate to bypass high pressure turbo
Twin Synchronic Synapse Blow Off Valves hooked to throttle switch + solenoid system (currently disabled for testing/leaks)
D.P.S. 3-piece exhaust manifold
4" exhaust with 36" FTE resonator and 36" MBRP resonator, less than 8' of pipe from turbine to exit
Gauges:
Low pressure boost
High pressure boost
Low pressure turbo drive pressure (exhaust)
High pressure turbo drive pressure (exhaust)
Water temperature
Intake Air Temperature
Oil Pressure
Fuel Pressure
Voltage
Exhaust Gas Temperature
Drivetrain:
NV4500 HD as stated above
NP205 transfer case, twin-sticked with interlock pins removed
Stock front driveshaft
Shortened rear driveshaft
Gearing: 3.07 (I think, supposedly that was on the 1st gen non-intercooled automatic equipped trucks, which is what I cannibalized)
35" (more or less-315/75/R16) Goodyear Duratrac tires
A pair of ARB air lockers (sitting in their boxes on my workbench...nobody has enough time to do everything)
RedHead steering box relocated with modified drag link, sporting dual steering stabilizers.
Factory front brakes, disc conversion on rear axle with k20 front calipers.
Hydroboost braking unit with in-line cooler.
Bonus: Smittybilt X20 17,500lb winch that mounts on front or back of vehicle.
Electrical system is all done by me, and is more complicated than i'd like to share, but everything works spectacularly on the electrical side. There is no room in the engine bay for batteries, so there are 3x Northstar AGM batteries in a sub-floor box behind the rear axle.
Entire vehicle has an altogether too overbuilt structural roll-cage throughout to prevent pop-can-like crushing in any sort of rollover mishap.
Phew. Alright, I think that is everything important. If I have left anything out, or if there is anything you need clarification on, please just ask.
I know this is a very strange thing to build, but I have strange tastes and a rather unfortunate amount of perseverance.
Also, the goal for this vehicle is not BIG POWER. It is more in the mind of the best fuel economy I can get, while still having enough power to zip around, occasionally pull my little car hauler trailer, and do a burnout if the need arises. Though ultimately it is "supposed" to be an adventure vehicle to drive around the country and play in the dirt.
Continued in next post...
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You know you are going to have to post pics don't you?




...Ben


...Ben
