I'm in the process of installing an exhaust brake. Which I need to install the 60lb valve springs on the exhaust valves. But should I put them on the intake valves too? Any reasons not to? I don't really think I need to the highest rpms I pull are about 3200rpms and I can't imagine going any higher than that.

So pros-cons of 60lb intake valves.

Thanks, Aaron

 

I can't think of any cons, save for cost. Plus, if you ever miss a gear, or somehow manage to over-rev the engine, you'll have some cheap insurance.

 

I agree, put all the #60 spring in all of the valves there. then you could put the 3200 govoner spring in with out a single worry........or maybe the 4000

 

The only con I can think of is more frequent valve adjustment - but you'll be in there to do the exhausts anyway so it's not a big deal.

 

Yup I agree with the "do all of 'em" idea. The way we tweak and fiddle with these trucks you may as well have the heavier springs all around for those times when you accidentally romp and crush a little ricer....
Just do a good valve set and check it every second oil change....if they seem ok then you can start to check them every 3rd oil change.

pb....

 

Im a bit confused. Everyone I have talk to has tryed to talk me out of the 60 LB springs.
I figure, if you have over 60 PSI boost on the back of an intake valve, it may cause problems with stock springs. ATS in Denver told me they have had trucks with 100 PSI boost running 4000 RPM and have had no problems.
With a single turbo (at this time) I get 44 PSI boost and turn over 3500 RPM and have had no problems.
I would go with the better, safe than sorry, all 60 pounders, but mine is still running strong.
With the exhaust brake definately go with the exhaust side. If you plan on serious power later, go ahead and do the intakes too.
I am actually considering calling Haisley and checking into the titanium retainers and keepers.
There are lots of options but its hard to find someone with the knowledge to sell you what you want or need.
Good luck, I guess, better safe than sorry.

 

Thats what I was thinking might as well change them all. On the other hand I thought I heard that people put the 60lb springs in and then round a lobe off the cam. Anybody ever heard of this?

Frostie,

It would make sense that with an exhaust brake your creating 60lbs of back pressure and it holds the valve open. So whats the difference if your making 60lbs of boost and why wouldn't that hold the intake valves open?

And actually with stock springs this engine's only rated for 35lbs of back pressure, so you shouldn't run more than 35lbs of boost without floating the intake valves. But also the intake vavles are larger so theoretically it would take less pressure to hold them open right?


Thanks for all the input.
Aaron

 

The original owner put the ex brake on when the truck has 20,000 on it W/ex #60. It has over 220,000 and its still the original cam!

The only time i think that a cam will go flat is if it wasn't broke in, properly when new or, oil never gets changed....oil brakes down. IMO

 

12 springs it is.

Thanks, guys

 

After many years of building engines. I was finally told about breaking in a cam.
The only reason To hold engine RPM up durring break in is to assure that lifters start to rotate. If the lifters dont rotate then you will flatten a cam right away.
Roller cams do not need break in.
I dont think heavier valve springs will make a big difference but Im sure over time it will cause a bit more wear.