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You know that '97 I was bragging about buying

Old 02-20-2011, 04:22 PM
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You know that '97 I was bragging about buying

...from the diesel mechanic owner who bought it new!

Well, this morning I carried my newly arrived little KDP fix-it kit out to the truck (which I had steam cleaned last night in anticipation) and low and behold when I peeked in at the shiny clean gear case - there was a nice little patch of industrial sillycone on what appears to be a thin crack just at the top of the case next to the idler pulley. Now what do you suppose could have caused that ...hmmm!

I had asked the DPO straight up if he had fixed the KDP he said no, he didn't know anything about it. Sooo, now I'm thinking he was not telling me the entire story, and my KDP is laying at the bottom of the timing gear case ...and that opens a whole new can of worms. As it stands, there is only a clear 1/8 inch layer over a plainly visible (but thin) crack that runs from the cover to the block. After a good hard run there is no oil leaking from this patch (even though it apparently was done some time back).

The question now is what to do:

#1 It may run forever (or at least a long time) just as it is, and is possibly best left alone.

#2 There could however be unseen damage, chipped gear tooth or whatever - this, I expect is unlikely, given the slight crack, and how well this truck runs (and judging from the stories of similar cases I've heard).

#3 Still there is the matter of the possibly loose bolts inside the case that should still be addressed.

The right thing to do, of course, is to tear everything down and install a new case. Or, I can take the cover off, put in a new pin, tab it, locktite all the other bolts, button it back up and call it good. This is a job I feel I can do.

Replacing the case is another matter and sounds pretty complicated for a shade tree mechanic. I have often said "If it was made by humans I can fix it - that, or I'll fix it so no one else can fix it!" This is great truck, though it does have 288K on it, and while I'm not married to it (yet) I have become quite fond of it over the last few weeks.

What would you do?
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Old 02-20-2011, 04:52 PM
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Personally I'd go back to the guy and ask for an explanation. If he doesn't help out with parts and/or fixing it, then I'd write him off and just fix it right myself.
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Old 02-20-2011, 05:17 PM
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Id do"The right thing to do"tear everything down and install a new case and inspect for further damage.. and if you go back for a further explanation your just gonna get lied to some more, so why waste your time. just my opinion
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:29 PM
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Thumbs up So, where is the best place to ...

Round up all the parts - gear case, gaskets, o-rings, etc. without getting ripped.

I'll be working on this outside so I may have to wait a few days for warmer weather.

If it wasn't for this board I probably wouldn't even attempt this repair.
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Old 02-21-2011, 01:03 AM
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I'd personally leave it if its not leaking. You're not really losing any structural rigidity with the crack, and its a decent sized job to swap the case. If you're going that far, throw a cam in it at the same time. No better time.
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Old 02-21-2011, 07:08 AM
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I'm with Tate, if it isn't leaking or the case doesn't have substantial damage I'd leave it alone my self. If anything maybe I'd clean it up and seal it with JB weld....I've fixed a few motorcycle cases with that.
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Old 02-21-2011, 08:31 AM
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1.) obviously it wasn't leaking bad.
2.) No structural rigidity

I would put the pin back in, do all the bolts and call her good.
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:38 AM
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I agree

Originally Posted by patdaly View Post
1.) obviously it wasn't leaking bad.
2.) No structural rigidity

I would put the pin back in, do all the bolts and call her good.
Take the cover off, retrieve the pin and put it back in or get a new one, lock tite the case blots put in the new crank seal and drive it.

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Old 02-21-2011, 01:57 PM
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do it right(yourself) and don't worry about it.

if the pin is missing, replace it. check all the gears in the front to see if the pin messed up the teeth.

replace the case with a new one, tighten all the bolts down to spec.
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Old 02-21-2011, 03:31 PM
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FWIW: My case did the same thing, cracked. I put it back in place and cut a v along the crack. Then put cold weld expoy across it to seal it and have *some* strength. Put lock tight on all the case bolts i could get to inside and retourqed them. And of course put a new pin in with a tab over it. Never found the old pin. Held fine and no leaks. Just make sure none of the web structure of the case has any cracks, if so then replace it. Do the crank seal while your at it. A air chisel with punch tip helps with removing the fan nut if its stubborn.
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Old 02-21-2011, 08:23 PM
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Thanks guys, you are pretty much validating my thoughts at this point...

I already have the repair kit, so I'm going in and have a look. I ran the truck hard again today and there is absolutely no leak at this patch. The entire truck is as dry as a bone in fact. If I get in there and find no damage to gears or case, and no spider cracking on the case wall, I will loctite all the bolts one at a time and torque, replace the KDP and tab it, clean everything up and V the hair line crack slightly with a diamond burr on a moto tool. Then I will apply an overlay of industrial epoxy weld that we use in the marine industry. I don't know how I could make it more leak-free than it already is . Then at the first sign of a future leak I will pull the whole thing down and replace the case (maybe it will be warm here by then).

I am told that there IS the rare instance of the KDP falling out without any damage, even to the case. Hopefully this is along those lines. I will keep you all posted as to what I find and truly do appreciate all the input.
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