Hello all! I have enjoyed lurking on this site for quite a while now and finally have a reason to post. I have a 1997 Mopar Cummins. I have never had the slightest issue starting it. EVER! Until this winter. Used to, I would never have to even plug it in. I plugged it in one night. Temp was around -4 F, and windy as hell. Went to start it to go to work, and it fought. It took about 90 seconds to finally get it to start. That is the first time it has ever started hard. Come to find out, the cord on the other end was unplugged, so that's why it fought me. No biggie. It has always grumbled and acted a little ****** when it gets woken up when it's that cold. The issue now is, that since I had this problem about a month ago, it fights me every time I start it...if it isn't plugged in. Today, I went out to start it up to go to work, and I had been driving the car, so it hadn't been started for 6 days or so. It is 26 degrees out, and it started like an old big cam cummins in an old semi or tractor. It sounds like it's only firing on a couple of cylinders at first, then it eventually evens out. The grid heater pulls the ammeter down, and cycles after it starts. My question is...Could there be an issue with my grid heater? Or is it something deeper? Also, it has 190,000 miles on it. Thanks!

 

You may have an air leak. Those cause a lot of starting troubles.

 

Since your voltmeter is going down, at least one of your 2 grid heaters is working. That should be plenty to get it to start easily in 26 degree weather.

Does the starting get worse the longer it sits? Is it dependent on whether you are parked nose uphill or downhill? Does it start quicker if you give it a lot of throttle? The reason that I ask is that it might well be an air leak in your fuel system.

 

More info makes for better answers " volt meter goes down " what did it start at , what did it go down to ?
1st guess [ worst case ] is that the cold start may have gotten the timing to slip on the injection pump .
But before chasing that down , a fuel pressure test , should be about 22-28psi idle , 28-36psi 2,000 RPM no load .
Then maybe chase down fuel line / hose leaks .

 

Sorry for the lack of info. The ammeter cycles "normally." At least what I would consider to be normal. It pulls down when I turn the key on, and then cycles after it's running. I don't have particulars. It is the same as it has been since day one. Thanks.

 

It seems to be an equal opportunity hard starting truck right now. It makes no difference whether I nose up to the barn at home, or parked in the wide open at work. Where do I check for air leaks at? Pump, injectors? There are no visible fuel leaks anywhere.

 

The fuel leaks are really more of a air/vacuum leak , from the tank to lift pump , is a vacuum so it would suck air in , not blow fuel out , to check , make a fitting to put about 3 lbs of air pressure in fuel tank , then look at all [ every inch ] fuel lines & hoses .
Then the fuel return line can leak also .
Unless they have changed things , again , you should have a volt meter on dash , not an amp gauge .
But 1st check fuel pressure .

 

Duh...about the volt meter...my bad...and thank you for the advise!

 

Update...I plugged the old girl in last night for today. Started great when plugged in. So this makes me wonder...does it still sound like an air leak? The only time it fights is when it is about 30 or under and she isn't plugged in.

 

Check that both grid heaters are working.
This may help Manifold Heater Problems

 

If it starts fine after sitting for a while even when plugged in, it is unlikely to be an air leak. Check the grid heaters with the instructions infidel gave above.

By the way, what is your idle at?

 

I usually have to turn the idle up on it once a year. It slips back and when it gets to the point that it dies quite a bit, I turn it back up to about 850. Right now, it is about 650 or so.