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-   -   ticking noise from lift pump (https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/12-valve-engine-drivetrain-100/ticking-noise-lift-pump-141722/)

Chris Sublett 03-14-2007 08:51 PM

ticking noise from lift pump
 
I just recently installed a #10 plate and performed a fuel pressure check on my 97 12 valve. The fuel pressure was low so I streached the spring inside the banjo bolt on my pump. I presume it is some sort of pressure relief valve.
The spring was approx. 3/8 long when I removed it so I streached it out to approx. 1/2.
It run fine for about a week with no ticking but today I noticed a loud ticking noise so I raised the hood and started trying to figure out were it was comming from. I can put my thumb on the primer button and apply some pressure and it will stop. Is this a sign of a faulty lift pump or what ? Thanks Chris S.

TIMMY22 03-14-2007 09:22 PM

Yes sir, and common. There about $135.00 and about 1 1/2 hr job give or take. use studs on the new install. (infidels idea)


the studs are

2 @ 8mm x 30mm 1.25 pitch

kd460 03-15-2007 08:43 AM

I ended up useing studs. The shop only had 38mm long studs and after installing, they could have been even a little longer. By the time I got the gaskets on (they were a little thicker than the stock ones), pump and prefilter, I had just enough room for nuts on the studs only. I would have felt better with flat and lock washers on there. I ended up using loc-tite on the studs and nuts. I probably threaded the studs in a little deep, but 30mm seems short. KD

Chris Sublett 03-15-2007 07:29 PM

Reasons for using the studs for lift pump
 
Whats the advantage with using the studs ? I would think it would help you line everything up. Is that the only reason? Thanks Chris

clutch1 03-15-2007 08:12 PM

they help getting the pump on since you wouldn't have to compress the plunger and start a bolt at the same time.

TIMMY22 03-15-2007 09:24 PM

It is not necessary to bottom the studs out in the holes. You are sandwiching the lift pump between the nuts and the block.

QuadZillaTruck 03-21-2007 11:09 AM

I've noticed that every time I use "BioDiesel" that I hear the ticking. When I go back to Dino, it goes away. I don't have a guage, nor do I know the proper pressure. The pump seems to work ok, despite a few (bombing runs) :) But I do complain about mileage. But what do you expect out of a 10,000 brick moving just under the sound barrier :) Wouldn't ya expect better with 189k miles on it :)

WHAT is the "normal" fuel line pressure for the lift pump? What EXACTLY is the tick sound? End of pluger travel for the pump? Excessive play in the pump once it is cleaned out by the bio? Why does it come and go?

THANKS

TIMMY22 03-21-2007 11:21 AM


Originally Posted by QuadZillaTruck (Post 1419295)
I've noticed that every time I use "BioDiesel" that I hear the ticking. When I go back to Dino, it goes away. I don't have a guage, nor do I know the proper pressure. The pump seems to work ok, despite a few (bombing runs) :) But I do complain about mileage. But what do you expect out of a 10,000 brick moving just under the sound barrier :) Wouldn't ya expect better with 189k miles on it :)

WHAT is the "normal" fuel line pressure for the lift pump? What EXACTLY is the tick sound? End of pluger travel for the pump? Excessive play in the pump once it is cleaned out by the bio? Why does it come and go?

THANKS

The LP has a plunger that rides on a cam lobe. The return spring gets weak and then the plunger will "float" therefore not following the lobe back to the lowest point. the "tick" is the lobe striking the pluger.

redramnc 03-21-2007 05:17 PM

Anything below 18 psi at idle needs a new overflow valve. When I repalced mine it went to about 24-25 psi at idle, if I remember correctly.

At 220K mine has started the "tick," too.


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