For you guys who have tore these engines apart, how much sludge (if any) do you expect to find inside? I've got about 200k miles on my truck, maintained on time, do you think there's a substantial amount of sludge in the engine that might affect fuel economy or power?

The reason I ask is because I have recently came across this product called Auto RX over on Bob is the Oil Guy forums. I'm still a bit skeptical but apparently it has lots of support, even from senior members on the board. They say it actually works and that it's NOT like your typical engine flush as you leave it in for 2500 miles and it's a slow-acting, environmentally friendly cleaner that won't hurt seals, etc.

I'm deciding on whether to try it or not. If anyone has pictures of sludge inside a Cummins, I'd like to see them as well.

What do you guys think? I know your initial reaction is probably that it's a hype, but I dont' know... Seems to be real popular on BITOG.

 

Auto-RX is good stuff.

But I don't think these engines tend towards sludge that much.

I use LC20 and there's no sludge in my engine at all...

 

So do you think I should use it? What's LC20?

 

Don't waste your money on gimmick products.

Any good diesel rated oil will have an additive package that protects against sludge.

 

Teardowns on Cummins I've seen were remarkably clean.... and I'm not a fan of engine flushes.... even slower acting ones.
They all tend to be too invasive/abrasive, IMO.

RJ

 

Only sludged up engines I've seen were one where the owner ran gasser engine oil. Gasser oil doesn't hold soot like diesel oil, it ends up as sludge.
I'd be careful with any additive that cleans out a higher mileage engine. Sometimes sludge will be plugging up leaks.

 

Good points on all fronts...

 

Thanks for the replies. So I'm not going to be using this stuff. Not to mention I don't really want to spend any more money on this truck and that Auto Rx will cost $80 for a dual treatment. As in my other post, cheapest diesel is now $4.55... I think I'm going to park the truck for a while until things stabilize.

 

A friend tore one out of a small city bus with about 250,000 miles on it, unknown history other than we knew it was original inside . . . sparkling clean on the inside, too bad the outside was rusty as can be, being in the rear of a Michigan vehicle and all, hehe. Even the pan was mostly spotless, not even a slimy layer on the bottom either.

 

Cummins not prone to sludge up with reasonable maintaince. Don't use snake oil cleaners. Flushes do good job of transfering your hard earned money to someone that will say most anything to get your money. Guess where they go when you have a failure from the stuff. Check out crediential of the praisers. Wanna buy some tablets that turn water into fuel???????? It has been done.

 

After reading the thread thanking Infidel for all his wisdom and then going back and looking at his posts, I have to agree with everyone else. So thank you Bill.
With that being said and after reading the info in the quote, I have a question. I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring 6 cylinder that I recently found out is susceptiple to oil sludge. Would using diesel oil in the car help with this and is there a problem with running diesel engine oil in a gasser?

 

Yes, diesel engine oil would help with the sludge issue. No problem running diesel engine oil in gas engines....

 

I really don't know how much of an issue it is, especially with the most recent diesel oil blends, but I "think" that the zinc in the oil ha been said to cause catalytic converter issues . . .
Otherwise no issue at all.

 

Nay on the diesel oil in gasser!!! Yes I know there are hundreds of you guys using it and making engines last forever in your opinion. The additive package is wrong. Many gassers have sludge issues, and failures from poor attention to details of mantaince. Inadequate oil changes for driving conditions. Nobody drives in the light duty cycle, period..... Using the wrong oil. If it calls for 5-20 then you better use that. Don't upgrade 5-30 to 10-30 because you have used it forever. Also must have correct service classification. pay 20 or 30 dollars and have a oil analysis done occasionally.

 

I was assuming that they would use the correct wt. oil.
I believe I have seen Rotella in 5-30 and 10-30 . . .
They all are API SM? rated . . . that's all the gasser calls for beyond the correct wt. anyway.