Shut off solenoid issue
#1
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Shut off solenoid issue
I have read through all the threads on the shut off solenoid I could find. The issue I am having is, the shut off solenoid won't go into the run position when the truck has sat for more than two or so hours. Once the truck has run and gotten to operating temp the truck will crank right back up. I currently have to turn the key to on, pull the solenoid up by hand and then crank the truck. Should I replace the solenoid, or is there another fix.
Sorry if I missed something covering this, but everything I found talked about it not going into run position at all. I just thought this was odd. I appreciate any feedback provided.
Sorry if I missed something covering this, but everything I found talked about it not going into run position at all. I just thought this was odd. I appreciate any feedback provided.
#2
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Travis, is the boot around the shaft still good? Most get torn and gunk gets up into the area between the body and the shaft. Mine would take intermittent starting fits until I pulled the solenoid, and cleaned the gunk out and put on a new boot. Been fine ever since.
That is the first thing I would do, the boot kit is like 10 bucks from Foster Truck, I have huge hands, so it was a pain getting the solenoid off and on, still took 2 hours or less.
PS just remembered, on my truck the rod end from the solenoid shaft to the IP had gotten rusty as well, cleaned it up while I had it off.
That is the first thing I would do, the boot kit is like 10 bucks from Foster Truck, I have huge hands, so it was a pain getting the solenoid off and on, still took 2 hours or less.
PS just remembered, on my truck the rod end from the solenoid shaft to the IP had gotten rusty as well, cleaned it up while I had it off.
#3
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Pull it off, clean it up and put a new boot on it. Might want to check the relay for it also. When removing the unit watch for a key on the shaft, don't lose it.
#4
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Probably a loose wire.
Check the wire on the battery that runs to the solenoid (I think, been a while and I re-wired mine).
There is only one position. When you are lifting it up you are putting it there.
There is another section to the coil that gives it the umph to get in place. It takes more magnetism to lift the valve but very little to keep it in place. That is what energizes when you hit the starter. If the cable on the battery, which I think is blue, is bad or slightly corroded, you won't get the bump to lift the valve into position.
Years ago I had the same problem and was about to replace the solenoid but I found the answer on this site and saved myself a bunch of cash and headache. A $1.00 terminal fixed the problem.
P
There is only one position. When you are lifting it up you are putting it there.
There is another section to the coil that gives it the umph to get in place. It takes more magnetism to lift the valve but very little to keep it in place. That is what energizes when you hit the starter. If the cable on the battery, which I think is blue, is bad or slightly corroded, you won't get the bump to lift the valve into position.
Years ago I had the same problem and was about to replace the solenoid but I found the answer on this site and saved myself a bunch of cash and headache. A $1.00 terminal fixed the problem.
P
#6
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#7
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That's interesting--mine had the exact opposite condition--it would start fine when cold, but after being warmed up it wouldn't lift the shutoff solenoid at all. I finally just installed a push-pull cable and got rid of the darn shutoff solenoid. Cable works great.
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