12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

Revisiting whether I need a new IP (P-Pump) or not 98 12Valve

Old Feb 24, 2011 | 06:05 AM
  #1  
chevummins's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Boonies, TX
Revisiting whether I need a new IP (P-Pump) or not 98 12Valve

Our family truck is a 98 12Valve 2WD 2500. Has about 250K on the clock and is bone stock. I put my new glowshift gages and pillar in last weekend. Now I have Pyro, boost, and tranny temp. I built the transmission a year and a half ago or so. Shift kit triple lock converter and clutch pack upgrages, along with increased line pressure. So we are ready for more juice.

I was running bio diesel a few years ago, and sucked in a mixture of water with fuel on accident. I drove the truck 40 miles to work on the crappy mixture then drained the tank and refueled with good fuel.

My mileage immediately dropped. Used to average 20 got 22 on the hwy. Now I haven't seen better the 17. Truck doesn't run as smooth. With my new gages I only saw maybe 15psi boost max, probably more like 10. I have 25psi of supply fuel pressure. I ran the over head, pulled the injectors, checked compression, had the injectors popped. All is good. I am down to the pump.
I know a cummins dealer who said he could get me a deal on recon unit from cummins, probably around 1400. Should I just replace this pump and then proceed with mods? I thought with gages, maybe I should bump the timing and see if the performance, and fuel economy returned. But if one piston in the pump is scored, then no timing would fix the unbalance of fuel going into the system. Maybe I evenly scarred all the pistons and bumping the timing would bring it back from the retarded land? I thought I would remove the catalytic converter and replace it with a straight section of pipe too. Any advice on if I need a new pump and where to get it. Rebuilders I called are high, like 2500 carry in, carry out... Someone here warned against pensacola... Thanks
Reply
Old Feb 24, 2011 | 07:36 AM
  #2  
patdaly's Avatar
Administrator
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 8,372
Likes: 172
From: Streator Illinois
How many miles have you driven since the bad fuel incident? I would try running some concentrated fuel cleaner thru for a tank or two and see what that does, I doubt you hurt the pump.
Reply
Old Feb 24, 2011 | 08:01 AM
  #3  
chevummins's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Boonies, TX
Shoot.. it has been a couple of years, but I don't drive much since I am self-employed at home. Maybe 20K miles. It would be great if the pump is only "gooped-up"
Reply
Old Feb 24, 2011 | 02:35 PM
  #4  
Lil Dog's Avatar
Chapter President
 
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,102
Likes: 2
From: Red Deer, Alberta Canada
Did you try to pinch off the return line from the pump to see if the fuel pressure went up? I wonder if the overflow valve is stuck open. ???
Reply
Old Feb 24, 2011 | 03:33 PM
  #5  
kawi600's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,910
Likes: 1
From: Boston, mASS
my truck is only at about 220k but the fuel economy went real bad.. 10mpg city. Im having the IP rebuilt, but I should have bought one already done off the shelf, since this particular pump shop took a long time to do the work.
No idea if this fixes the economy yet obviously.
Also in the mix, I found the truck has a bad cam and thats being replaced too. Truck had a rhythm for awhile and I kept telling my mechanic something was going on. Its just been too cold to work on it myself. Cam may have been involved in the economy issue.
Id rebuild the pump as the last option really.. it cost me 1500$ with parts to do that job. It aint cheap.
Another possibility is that the water damaged your injectors. might be worth getting them checked or replaced before you do the pump.
Reply
Old Feb 24, 2011 | 03:46 PM
  #6  
chevummins's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Boonies, TX
I've covered the overflow valve problem by installing a gage for the lift pump pressure, tapped into the fuel filter canister. I am running 20-25 psi of pressure, should be in good shape. I haven't given any thought to cam problems. I hope that is not the problem.

I pulled the injectors too. I took them to a shop and had them popped off. He said they were very close in pressure to each other and that it was not the problem.

I called the folks linked to in the VE pump thread posted today. They do pumps on exchange for $1095. He said that governor springs could be installed for a couple hundred extra. Sounds great to me. $1295 for a new pump with 3200 governor springs. I could also put the timing around 17 degrees. If the pump is junk then these 2 mods would make a world of difference in my truck. Hopefully the fuel economy will come back up too. I am leaning to just biting the bullet. Money is looking good for April. I will probably pull the trigger then, unless bumping the timing on my current set up might improve things.
Reply
Old Feb 24, 2011 | 03:47 PM
  #7  
chevummins's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Boonies, TX
Here is the folks I called...
http://www.usdieselparts.com/index.c...tion-pumps.cfm
Reply
Old Feb 25, 2011 | 12:04 PM
  #8  
infidel's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 14,672
Likes: 9
From: Montana
Originally Posted by chevummins
I'm a little biased since US Diesel is local to me but you won't go wrong with them especially on a stock pump.
I feel their prices on a modded pump are high compared to the ease and expense of doing it yourself though.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Commanderman440
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
8
Nov 12, 2013 10:07 PM
Commatoze
General Diesel Discussion
7
Sep 10, 2004 06:30 PM
stonewalldiesel
24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
3
Mar 19, 2004 01:14 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:16 AM.