Removing timing pin...
 

Im going to advance my timing and kill my kdp tommorrow and I have a few questions. I attempted to do this a while back and we could not get the pin to drop into place while turning the engine over. A few guys reccomended taking the pin out completly, im not sure if this makes it easier or what. The last time we tried to remove the pin it didn't want to come out and i did not want to apply to much force and cause the pin to break. How do people get the pin out? I heard there is an o-ring and a clip holding it in place, does the clip break? If so do the pieces fall inside the cover? I heard of the drop valve method whats the best way to do this? IIRC it mentioned something about watching the exhaust valves when they were closing, are the exhaust valves the closest to the manifold? I just want to make sure i get it right this time.

Im using the blue point timing kit and the turn over tool and I bought the TST products kdp kit.

The pin is plastic and may be sheared off. It isn't a reliable way to find TDC anyway. Use the drop valve method. That involves adjusting the #1 intake valve downward enough that it strikes the top of the piston. Rotate the engine until the piston hits the valve. Mark the damper. Rotate it the other way until the piston hits the valve. Mark the damper. Halfway between those marks is TDC. Don't forget to readjust the valve.

might be a dumb question but i dont know much on engines, which intake valve are you refering to? Which one is it when looking at the valves with cover pulled off?


Thanks!!


Garrett

#1 would be the front one. If you don't know that much perhaps you shouldn't be attempting a timing change without some help.

GAmes , I think he wants to know which valve is the intake valve, I can't actually remember which one it is now , look and see which one is lined up with the exhaust port , that is your exhaust valve, meaning the only other valve on that cylinder is intake.

If you are removing the timing cover to fix the kdp, you can use marks on the crank and cam that line up to give you #1 TDC.

The intake valve is the frontmost valve on each cylinder.

You may be right, however, it is the front one as I said. I sometimes lack tact, sorry 9512v[redface]

are these grooves or markings? never heard of that method, sounds easier though..

I just did my timing a couple of weeks ago and the pin is a bit tricky if you have someone bar the engine while you wiggle the pin with some pressure it will fall into place it just takes a little patiants.Just be careful you don't go to far and shear the pin.

The last time I tried we pushed and wiggled and it would not fall in place for nothing. This while slowly rotating with the barring tool. I have a 100 plate pushed forward, starwheel turned all the way, wastegate closed off, intake and its straightpiped. I plan to do a 4000gsk and springs next and maybe 370s along with a turbo upgrade, so i plan to set the timing to 16.5* would that be good for what I plan? This is a number I came up with after doing some researching..

Is there anyone near delaware that can help me? I need some one to give me a hand and all the people which i have to ask couldnt even change a windshield wiper blade. I got all the tools to do it i just need someone to help..

thanks,

garrett

Make sure first off that the timing pin is free to move. Try to spin it in its bore, then try to get it to move back and forth about 1/8 of an inch. I rotate the engine backwards with a socket on the alternator nut. Remove the #6 valve cover, when the intake valve gets to the top of its travel, the pin should drop in.