Rear Diff gear oil and wheel bearing?
Rear Diff gear oil and wheel bearing?
Ok,
I have a 98 manual so it has the Dana 80 in it with 4.10 limited slip.
I read through the post and called the dealership and all I get is varying information.
What kind of fluid needs to be put in it and how much, and how much friction modifier?
Also I have a leaky wheel bearing and is there any advice to make changing it easy. I looked for a simple how to to make sure I dont miss anything but didn't really find much that helped. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks
I have a 98 manual so it has the Dana 80 in it with 4.10 limited slip.
I read through the post and called the dealership and all I get is varying information.
What kind of fluid needs to be put in it and how much, and how much friction modifier?
Also I have a leaky wheel bearing and is there any advice to make changing it easy. I looked for a simple how to to make sure I dont miss anything but didn't really find much that helped. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks
I don't know about how much fluid, but remove the 8 axle bolts, then pull the axle, remove the one big nut, (depending on the year) remove the lock ring and second nut, then pull the drum assembly off the truck. Turn the hub upside down and there will be your seal.
Don't forget the little tab type lock for he big nut. NAPA carries replacements. The Haynes manual says to coat the bearing in grease, just make sure you have really doused the bearings with diff fluid just before putting it back up.
Should get at least a haynes manual to tell you how to do it. Not that tough at all. Not sure on fluid type. I think if you tow heavy, go with the heavier fluid. Also highly reccomend synthetic fluid.
Sometimes friction modifier is needed sometimes it is not (if going with sythetic). I would have 2 bottles on hand if using conventional fluid. Depends on how tight the clutch pak is. But like I said, synthetic is well worth the few extra bucks.
After all is put back together, you need to find a parking lot and do lots of figure eights to distribute the fluid over to the bearings.
Not a tough job, and the haynes is really helpful, only about 15 bucks, and you will use again. The torque sequence is one of those tighten it up to xx value, then back it off x turns.
The socket for the nut is kind of difficuolt to find. Best bet is to get it here:
http://www.tooldesk.com/products/def...=axle%20socket
As far as gaskets go, just use some good automotive silicone gasket maker. Make sure you clean up the wheel bearing seal surface a little, and lube the seal lip also. Keep things clean while you do it, and that about sums it up. Oh yeah, if you think the diff fluid stinks, wait till you smell the additive. Kevin
Should get at least a haynes manual to tell you how to do it. Not that tough at all. Not sure on fluid type. I think if you tow heavy, go with the heavier fluid. Also highly reccomend synthetic fluid.
Sometimes friction modifier is needed sometimes it is not (if going with sythetic). I would have 2 bottles on hand if using conventional fluid. Depends on how tight the clutch pak is. But like I said, synthetic is well worth the few extra bucks.
After all is put back together, you need to find a parking lot and do lots of figure eights to distribute the fluid over to the bearings.
Not a tough job, and the haynes is really helpful, only about 15 bucks, and you will use again. The torque sequence is one of those tighten it up to xx value, then back it off x turns.
The socket for the nut is kind of difficuolt to find. Best bet is to get it here:
http://www.tooldesk.com/products/def...=axle%20socket
As far as gaskets go, just use some good automotive silicone gasket maker. Make sure you clean up the wheel bearing seal surface a little, and lube the seal lip also. Keep things clean while you do it, and that about sums it up. Oh yeah, if you think the diff fluid stinks, wait till you smell the additive. Kevin
I never use grease on the bearings. Some greases may gell. I coat the bearings with the same oil I fill the diff with. Fill the rear end up with oil. When I get the wheels on I will jack up the opposite side to get the wheel off the ground about 6 in or so and leave it set for 5 min to let the new oil soak it thru the bearings, then repeat this process for the other side. Then refill the diff with oil and you are good to go. I've done this for 30 years and never had a bearing failure.
Thanks for all the info... when I talked to the dealership they suggested 75w-90 synthetic.... I see that dodgeram.org suggest 80-90 in there rear axle specs. What are all of you running in it?
I am using 5 quarts 75w 90 valvoline syntetic with about half a quart of anti-slip and no problem, I only but 8 ounces the first time and it vibrated alot in turns, added a little more and walaah!
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