Rhino

FWIW - The quad cab became an option in 1998.

96_12V

The temperature gauge on these trucks is somewhat functional--that is, it does more than serve as an idiot light replacment. When fully warmed up, my '96 will run just inside the "normal" range. As load is added, it will increase slightly. You will also notice this while running unloaded at freeway speeds with the A/C on. I have still never seen the needle running at 1/2 scale (190F indicated). This is as per the owner's manual exactly what the gauge is supposed to indicate. Nothing is wrong.

While you still have the option--I will strongly reccommend to you to consider a manual transmission truck. The automatics fail at regular intervals, even from light use. Drive a few of them, and you will find it's quite good to drive, and you'll get better milage as well. I run at 24-25 unloaded with a '96 2wd on the freeway. And a new South Bend clutch was $665 parts and labor.

Run away from any truck that shows evidence of crash-testing. Check the frame as well, and make sure to run a VIN check on it. Good luck!

bmoeller

I'd stay away from the autos, too. The T/C is VERY sloppy, and I could slip the lock-up clutch, even when stock. Have to really watch it, being BOMBed and all now. About got enough for a BOMBed auto.

I've done a few things to the tranny, so it isn't as bad as it used to be, but still sucks. Upping the line PSI would help some.

RCW

As stated by others, the absolutely best engines were those made from 94-98, with the 215 horse versions made in late 96 through 98 being those with the most off-the-shelf power. The lower power versions can be easily turned up to make the same power as the later engines, but require a bit more in injection parts and labor.

You do have to consider the need to secure the upper dowel pin in the front timing gear case. Unless the truck has had this done, plan on doing that little fix right away. It is not a warranty item, and most guys that watch the forums have done this by now. So, check very carefully under and on the driver's side of the fan mount on the engine block, where the gear case rolls up and around the bearing mount, and look for grease or oil back by the block. If there is any, figure the dowel let go and the case is cracked.

The automatic transmission is not intended for performance or hard use, so keep that in mind. Also, check the articles on the top toolbar on this site and read the one about the automatic. If you go with an automatic, then figure on doing some work to improve it so it can handle the power and torque. DTT over at www.dieseltrans.com has some really great information on what should be done on an automatic that is going to have the power turned up or be worked hard.

Keep an eye on the 5 speed transmission, it has a 5th gear nut that comes off. It is not expensive to fix, but does require a new shaft and nut to fix it properly. OEM clutches are intended for people that run the stock horsepower, so if you start boosting power be prepared to buy an entire clutch and flywheel system from someone like Southbend, LuK also makes a good affordable system for guys that know how to drive and are careful with the clutch.

When you deal with a second generation truck body and chassis, there are a number of things that go wrong. That is not to say they are as bad as Chevy or Ford, but there are some things you have to watch. Included are bad welds on the cab behind the back doors on an extended cab, bad welds on the inner cowl below the front fenders that leaks water on the driver's feet, a sticky air box door on the heater that causes it to conk out unexpectedly, and the flat out world's worst front suspension on the 4X4 trucks. There are some weatherstripping issues on the front doors, again they are easily and inexpensively fixed.

Only buy good aftermarket solutions for the steering box and trackbar on the 4X4's. The OEM stuff fails as fast as you install it, so do not waste your time. The body problems are the subject of recalls and Technical Service Bulletins, so if you scream loud enough Dodge may fix them for you, if not it is no big deal and nearly anyone with a good wire machine can do the fixes.

There is an area to watch on the 4X4 3500's and 2500's that have been used on rough roads and carried loads like service bodies or pulled stock trailers. That is the upper spring seats for the front coils will crack the frame. Again, there is a recall on this issue, but you have to scream loudly if you run into the cracks. If the truck has no cracks, change the trackbar to the improved aftermarket type, and use the best shocks on the front you can get. You want the front suspension to stay tight and not have any play at all.

www.dodgeram.org has a link to the TSB and recall information on the Dodges, so cruise through those to get an idea of what to watch for.

Lastly, if you find a good truck, take the VIN to a Dodge dealer and have them do the lookup to see if all the recalls and TSB's have been done. That can save you a bunch of time and money down the road. www.dodge.com also has a VIN tracking system that will let you know which recalls have been performed, but it is sometimes not current or available.

cumminsdriver635

Dont be scared of the auto. Under stock motor conditions, they should last a pretty good while. Mine has probably about 100k miles or so on the tranny(was rebuilt because it was burnt up from pulling it in neutral without disengaging the transfer case), and with my fuel plate, and GSK, it holds well, but my $50 transgo shift kit really helped a lot. I would like to buy a new TC because mine will slip pretty good with a load, but in a stock truck you should have no problems. I would reccomend changing the fluid, and filter as soon as you get it too, because that helped mine out. My truck has 180k on it, and if they have been taken care of, they will last a long time. Good luck

Eric

vssman

Mine started to go at just over 1,000 miles... And I didn't beat on it... I had to get the DMV involved after 5 visits to the dealer to have it replaced.

cumminsdriver635

Apparently it was a lemon. Ive heard of many allisons, and torqueshifts letting go very soon too. Theres gonna be a lemon in every bunch, but for the most part the stock trannies are pretty stout if you ask me.

Eric

Cowhand

175K on my stock trans, pushing 300 HP and turning 37" tires. Finally BOMBed the trans because I burnt the lock up clutch lining off in the TC.