Hodge

I installed new polyurethane bushings in my control arms this past week. Up to this point, I have replaced the track bar, steering stabilizer, bearings and balljoints, u-joints, and shocks (to maintain the truck, and tighten things up). I also installed a steering box stabilizer. Beyond a doubt, the new polyurethane bushings made the biggest improvement over everything else.
The truck drives very well, nice and tight, doesn't wander, no death wobble (I personally have never had it in this truck), and it feels like a new truck.
I have $86 in the bushings, and it is worth every penny. So, if you are considering doing this to your truck, you have my "thumbs up".

moparguy

Hodge, sounds great. Did you have any issues with the change, did you burn the old bushings out? Also where did you buy the new ones? Thanks for any advise, at 230k miles I suspect my 95 could use this upgrade.

Hodge

The drivers side, upper control arm was a little difficult to fish out. Make sure you mark the cams on the lower control arms, so you can keep your alighment correct. Do one arm at a time, so the axle doesn't shift position. Once each arm was out, I drilled holes, as big as possible, around the bushings. This releaved the pressure on the bushings. I then took a pair of needle nosed vise grips and twisted the bushings, breaking whatever bond was left from the old rubber. I could then take a punch and drive the bushings out. After that, I just took a large flat screwdriver and fished out the other rubber bushing. I bought a set of Prothane urethane bushings on Ebay for $86 shipped. They went it smooth and easy. After that, it was just a matter of putting the control arm back on. Be sure to use all the urethane grease, in all the areas that see twisting motion. Otherwise, they will squeak like crazy.
The bolts in the upper control arms took an 18 mm socket for the nut, and a 15 mm socket for the head of the bolt. The lower arm bolts were 13/16ths.
My truck drove fine, but I knew the old rubber bushings had play because I could hear clunking in the front end. That is all gone now, and the front end is tighter. Well worth the money and time. I had about 4 hours in the job, but it would have been less- I kept getting interupted.

high bid

I'm having to replace my sky jacker bushings after another 50k mi. Are there any other control arm options for lifted trucks that eliminate bushings?

joem

Im "trying" to install energy suspention bushings this week but im haveing one heck of a time takeing the lower arm bolt out, I took the nut and cam off and have hit the bolt so hard with a HUGE splitting mall thats its bending the mounting flange thats welded to the axle inward, it seems the bolt rusted to the steel sleeve/bushing. Any ideas on getting rusted bolts un-stuck from the old steel bushing insert? I tired a inpact and breaker bar on the inside bolt head, it only spun the entire rubber bushing inside the track arm and split my inpact socket in half! maybe sawall my only hope?

high bid

I d spray a ton of PB or wd40 on it....should help. I just want to find out why I'm having to do this again in such a short time period. I would never recommend sky jacker!

R Walter

How do you like disc brakes in the rear?

joem

most amazing upgrade ever, I broke the pinion and was searching for any used axle and came across some dude who rolled his 02 automatic when pulling a car carrier with 3 sprinter vans on it up a steep hill and then turned to tight- he had no insurance and was parting the truck out. Picked it up for $200 Brake pedal feel is great, I was worried that the rear would over work istelf and lock up early but am pleased to say that the front is still about 70% and rear 30% brakeing.
Just wish I would have found a Dana 80 as the 70's are weak when abused- I know of 3 people locally who have also snapped pinion teeth on the 70

DieselBoy20

I've been trying to figure out whats going on with my '96 myself front end wise, and I know I need a new track bar to tighten the steering up, already did the steering damper but I have an awful rattle/clunking somewhere at the front passenger side of truck when I go over washboard and bumps. I also have an awful clunking in the rear that sounds like the truck box is loose in the rear and I have no idea where to look for problem areas. Im gonna go around and replace my shocks also. Anyone have these problems?

joem

Dieselboy20:
1. my front end clunking (sounds like something major is loose but its not) was the super cheap and easy to intall sway bar bushings under the horseshoe keepers under the front rad support. My friend just wrapped the sway bar in electrical tape and put the old bushings back- fixed for $0.00

2. Yes I have the horrable loose box clunk, just started after last years hunting trip on nasty roads and it sounds like somone is dropping a 2x4 from 4 feet up rifght?- I have not found what the cause is there--- im staying tuned in on this one!
I also had a issue of my drivers side of the box being 2" lower than the passanger side- glad to report that new shocks and a empty tank of fuel fixed this issue. its perfectly level now.

joem

Back to the control arms, I hacked the stuck bolt off and is the camber adjuster welded to the bolt head??? That would explain why I blew 2 impact sockets up trying to loosen it from the inside

joem

the bolt is still super stuck inside the bushing, got to get a new sawzell blade and cut the other side off friday, when I wasnt holding a phone in my left hand I was hitting this thing full throttle and notta
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQEAHjHNf28

high bid

I ordered xrf ball joints, don't think they've ever been R&R but think my issue is control arm bushings...again. Is it just b/c they're sky junker bushings or has everyone else replaced them every 50k miles?

Hodge

My original bushings lasted 180,000 miles, and the new ones are still good with 30,000 on them. Time will tell.

Hodge

You really need to go through the front end systematically. Everything has an effect on everything else. You are sure to need a new trackbar, and you should also invest in a steering box brace. You will need to get all the weight off of the front end, support the axle with a jack (so that you can get it in a static position- no weight on it, and no weight hanging down), and start checking things like sway bar bushings and control arm bushings.
As far as the rear end, have you checked your spare tire? If it is hanging down at all, versus tight against the crossmember, it will sway and clank. It can also be spring bushings, or a loose/broken bed bolt, or a really loose shock. You just need to get under the back end, and start pulling on things. Lay on your back and, using your legs, push up and down on the truck- get it moving, so you can see what might be the problem. Lift the corners of the bed, to see if it's loose.