IBREAK

I just picked up a 98 12v 4x4 5 spd. I just finshed the kdp now I want more power. I have ordered gauges. I think for now I just want to move the stock plate foward but what else can I do that is cheap. Also I have searched for about an hour on how to move a plate but I can not find the answer can someone point me in the right direction. '

thanks
bryan

halerazor

where are you located? you can get a 3k gsk for $100 it will feel like it adds 100hp. remove the silencer ring if you want the tubo to sing. move the starwheel all the way foward and move the plate all the way foward. if you want mor power than that you can grind the plate completely smooth, but say bye bye to your tranny. here is a link on how to move the starwheel and the plate
http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf

IBREAK

nc thanks for the help

big jimmy

If you want to save money do the #3gsk that uses a washer to bypass the idle spring but gets you the 3000 rpm using the stock springs. Gunracer came up with this DIY mod and says it works great. No issues with idle getting skewed.

Big Jimmy

TxDiesel007

Hey Bryan

THIS is just to get a little more power out of your ram. You can do serveral things, i see you are getting gauges, and you have an air intake on the way. which is good. Now this is an into to the main power source of the ram, Your P7100 Pump, and what you can tweak on it for more power. You can also time it, but thats advanced, well at least for me... use this as an intro more than anything.. I tried my best to explain it.... here goes... and

I meant to say post.... sorry.....

Here is an intro the link to the pic might not work, but u can see it as banks plate in my gallery.....

to get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix.

A governers spring kit, Reffered to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow powerband from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governer arm adjustment and your plate positioning. A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100 (PM northslope for wicked work! ) and a zero plate. Piers Diesel Research and Hot Rod Diesels have them for the same price, The fuel plate... here is my explanation....

Torque plates.... ok this is a torque plate right here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=500&page=1

More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. If you read my literal "dissertation" of a post hehehehehehe. it tells u the procedure on how to do it. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown soleniod (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those ull notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move teh shutdown soleniod out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple adjustment, u just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. If you dont have gauges, dont set it full forward, If you do have gauges set it forward for a 30 or so rwhp increase!

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it.PS having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS...

Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..

Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto.....if you are going to play hard, in most cases if you just want a modest power gain, just get a 10 plate, set it a lil bit forward, and a GSK will wake up your truck. In the stock position its easily drivable and fun as well.

Waste gate, if i was good with pictures id put one up for you, but im sure you know what the wastegate looks like, that head looking deal, it is usually hooked to a rubber or similar airline, you want a little more boost? You can get a longer hose or pinch it up, There is a thread, i dont member where tho, where it shows someone improperly blocking the wastgate with a screw.... Well that aint good.. Anyways

Also make sure you get the KDP done on that truck as well... Not hard to do, look in my previous posts, KDP Report Using TST kit, or somethin similar to that......

PS this is cut and paste of other posts, sorry if its redundant....

Best of luck and hope that this helps..

Tx

Dr. Evil

Holy Rick....nice work!!

TxDiesel007

Thank you Dr....

Rick

megajoltman

good info

MikeR

IBREAK,
Moving the stock plate is an easy job, might take you an hour or so to do it the first time. TST makes aftermarket plates and lists the plate directions on their site as a PDF file. I pasted the link below, all you need to know is there. This will give you a little taste for power, and once you get bored with it get a 'bigger' plate...my favorite is a #10.
You could grind a profile into your stock plate, but a new truck owner I don't recommend it to the first time out until they get some experience in knowing what they're doing and why.

http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf

Willy91

Very nice. I would have gotten tired of tyoing about half way through.

IBREAK

Yeah thanks for the info. If you grind the plate does it make it a 100 or can you just grind it a little. I guess I do not fully understand this process. Can someone explain it to me. I bought the truck to tow with so what is the best way to go.

TxDiesel007

If you grind your plate completely flat,

this is shown in my gallery in 0 plate is a plate that has been grinded down completely flat. The 100 plate in my gallery resembles the ten plate curve at the base of it, and similar to a zero up top with no defueling. The fueling curve is what determines what number the plate is. The lower the number the more aggressive it is, the higher it is the closer to stock it is. You can grind some on your stock plate yes you can, but you would need to look at plate profiles and determine which one is right for you...

Rick

IBREAK

I thought a saw somewhere that a 100 plate is not good. But that seems to be what I am looking for a more moderate power increase. Not ***** to the wall. Am I right or wrong.

bryan

TxDiesel007

Go with a 10 for your application

You will feel a difference. A 100 is not good if you have a stock drivetrain, clutch, and u like to hammer the truck constantly. Well if you keep it in check Like i do, its not bad, i drive daily with a 100 plate and still manage 21-22 mpg on the highway. So i wouldnt say its bad if you can control yourself and ur impulses..

Mind, you i have a stock clutch, stock dana 80 rear too.. It aint bad.. Just control yourself..

Rick

IBREAK

So can I make a stock plate into a 10. I am cheap and have more time than money. I know I can make a 100. So you are saying if I just don't hammer it all the time I will be ok with a 100 might just burn up the clutch.