My truck cuts out at 2000 RPM
#1
My 1995 truck cuts out at 2000 RPM
I have just changed the fuel filter and checked the shut off solenoid for proper operation but the engine still cuts out at 2000 RPM with a sudden cloud of white smoke. It idles smoothly and runs okay at light throttle. Boost gauge shows lower boost than usual but no leaks are present. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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My 03 did the exact same thing with a pop and a cloud of white smoke i put a new wix air filter in it and problem solved easy as that, im pretty sure its the same thing.
#12
You check fuel pressure at the top of the fuel filter housing.The line coming from the LP.Or the banjo nut on the side of the injection pump(this is way simpler to get at).This website has the pics you need.Thx
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1996/14-07-96.htm
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1996/14-07-96.htm
#13
SilverDodge....Here is a great write up that "Plow" did,to install a fuel pressure gauge:I hope its ok to do a copy and paste of another members posting..
To check fuel pressure on 12 valve:
I drill and tap the top of the injection pump banjo bolt to 1/8'' pipe
thread, then install a male x female 1/8'' needle valve with 1/8'' tubing
compression fitting in it. Boost gauge or oil pressure tubing pushed
though some 1/4'' tubing to protect against cuts and kinks to the gauge.
For a gauge you can use a fuel, boost, oil or water pressure gauge, for a 12
valve it must be at least 40 psi, 60 psi is best.
Use no Teflon tape, it doesn't work
with diesel. Instead use anti-seize or Permatex #2. Remember you are
working on the clean side of the filter, keep everything spotless.
Compression fittings with a ferrule that slips over the tubing will leak
if overtightened, finger tight with one half turn of a wrench is plenty.
The ferrule should be replaced if the fitting is ever removed.
If you can tap your manifold for a pyro tapping the banjo bolt is a piece
of cake. Just drill from the inside to keep the hole straight and tap from
the outside. You can also connect to the bleed screw on top of your fuel
filter with the appropriate adapter to tubing if you don't want to tap.
The adaptor is available from TST for $25 they say it is only for temporary use though http://www.tstproducts.com/index.as...WPROD&ProdID=62 .
After the install start your
engine with the needle valve closed then open it slowly till someone in
the cab signals you that it's just reading pressure. If you tighten down
the packing nut under the valve handle the setting can't move. The valve
will control pulsation and buzzing and can also be shut down in the
unlikely event that you have a leak. Without a valve to restrict the flow
the gauge will pulsate so badly that you won't be able to read it in the
short time before it self destructs.
Parts list; 1/8'' needle valve - $2.50 from the hardware store, plastic
oil pressure tubing kit that comes with the compression fittings - under $10
from any auto parts store. 1/4'' tubing for protective sleeve - less than $2.
Gauge is your choice and may come with tubing. The pressure gauges I
use cost around $10 from here http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.a...es&keyword=NFGA , bringing the total cost to less than $20 and a
To check fuel pressure on 12 valve:
I drill and tap the top of the injection pump banjo bolt to 1/8'' pipe
thread, then install a male x female 1/8'' needle valve with 1/8'' tubing
compression fitting in it. Boost gauge or oil pressure tubing pushed
though some 1/4'' tubing to protect against cuts and kinks to the gauge.
For a gauge you can use a fuel, boost, oil or water pressure gauge, for a 12
valve it must be at least 40 psi, 60 psi is best.
Use no Teflon tape, it doesn't work
with diesel. Instead use anti-seize or Permatex #2. Remember you are
working on the clean side of the filter, keep everything spotless.
Compression fittings with a ferrule that slips over the tubing will leak
if overtightened, finger tight with one half turn of a wrench is plenty.
The ferrule should be replaced if the fitting is ever removed.
If you can tap your manifold for a pyro tapping the banjo bolt is a piece
of cake. Just drill from the inside to keep the hole straight and tap from
the outside. You can also connect to the bleed screw on top of your fuel
filter with the appropriate adapter to tubing if you don't want to tap.
The adaptor is available from TST for $25 they say it is only for temporary use though http://www.tstproducts.com/index.as...WPROD&ProdID=62 .
After the install start your
engine with the needle valve closed then open it slowly till someone in
the cab signals you that it's just reading pressure. If you tighten down
the packing nut under the valve handle the setting can't move. The valve
will control pulsation and buzzing and can also be shut down in the
unlikely event that you have a leak. Without a valve to restrict the flow
the gauge will pulsate so badly that you won't be able to read it in the
short time before it self destructs.
Parts list; 1/8'' needle valve - $2.50 from the hardware store, plastic
oil pressure tubing kit that comes with the compression fittings - under $10
from any auto parts store. 1/4'' tubing for protective sleeve - less than $2.
Gauge is your choice and may come with tubing. The pressure gauges I
use cost around $10 from here http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.a...es&keyword=NFGA , bringing the total cost to less than $20 and a
#14
Truck missing
You check fuel pressure at the top of the fuel filter housing.The line coming from the LP.Or the banjo nut on the side of the injection pump(this is way simpler to get at).This website has the pics you need.Thx
TSB 14-07-96 Rev. A
TSB 14-07-96 Rev. A
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