Low power Low boost
Low power Low boost
Hey gentleman I've been trying to troubleshoot a low power condition on my 97 ram. I know I have a low fuel pressure condition 13 psi at idle and 20 psi at 2000rpm. I'm also only making 10 pounds boost at WOT. Today I noticed the vacuum pot on my wastegate actuator is cracked. Would this be contributing to a low boost low power condition? Thanks in advance for your help.
It might contribute, but you have to have fuel to build boost, and low supply pressure to the IP will limit your fuel to build boost............
Any idea on why your supply pressure is so low?
Any idea on why your supply pressure is so low?
I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure out why the fuel ptessure is so low patdaly. I've changes or cleaned all my filters and screens including the in tank screen. I've changed my overflow valve to a tork tek adjustable one. I've checked all my fuel lines as well. I'm thinking my lift pump may be getting worn out. Not really sure what to do next other than replace the lift pump. Any suggestions? Thanks.
To check to see if the lift pump is weak find the rubber part of the return line (between engine and frame) and pinch it off with pliers while you have someone watch the fuel pressure. if pressure jumps up its a overflow valve problem if it doesn't jump up its a lift pump/fuel supply problem.
Okay guys I'm beyond confused now. I pinched my return line and my pressure spiked to over 20 psi. I just replaced the overflow valve so what does this mean? Did I get a bad valve? Do I need to replace it again???? Does this spike in pressure point to anything other than an overflow valve issue? Help!!!!!!😣😣
Okay guys I'm beyond confused now. I pinched my return line and my pressure spiked to over 20 psi. I just replaced the overflow valve so what does this mean? Did I get a bad valve? Do I need to replace it again???? Does this spike in pressure point to anything other than an overflow valve issue? Help!!!!!!😣😣
Any chance you have installed a pressure adapter into the bleed port on the banjo bolt that is longer than the stock bleed screw and is restricting fuel flow to the injection pump?
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The shiny new one is the overflow valve that I replaced it's on the front of the ip. According to the manual it's in the right spot. My pressure guage is threaded into the top of the supply banjo bolt on the filter and isn't any longer than the bleed screw. Also I've had low pressure problems before I put my pressure guage on. Still completely confused. My overflow valve is a tork tek and is supposed to be factory adjusted. Not sure if I should mess with it or not.
Okay guys I'm beyond confused now. I pinched my return line and my pressure spiked to over 20 psi. I just replaced the overflow valve so what does this mean? Did I get a bad valve? Do I need to replace it again???? Does this spike in pressure point to anything other than an overflow valve issue? Help!!!!!!😣😣
Hey DirtyDozen!
Maybe you should look into https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ration-322212/ before going shopping.
One easy test is to open the fuel filter drain **** when the engine is running. It works best if you take a long transparent hose and route it to the fuel filler- that way you can see if you get air into the fuel.
This did a lot for Peter's 12V, power and boost are up, EGT is down a bit.
Just my 2c
Markus
Maybe you should look into https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ration-322212/ before going shopping.
One easy test is to open the fuel filter drain **** when the engine is running. It works best if you take a long transparent hose and route it to the fuel filler- that way you can see if you get air into the fuel.
This did a lot for Peter's 12V, power and boost are up, EGT is down a bit.
Just my 2c
Markus
Both my 12 valves, the stock lift pumps only got 150k miles, and had to replace them. I've done plenty other trucks around that mark, so no surprise it needs one.
As for the wastegate; if it's cracked just unscrew the boost line fitting and screw in a pipe plug, don't need a functioning wastegate anyway. As long as the spring in the actuator is holding the wastegate flapper closed.
As for the wastegate; if it's cracked just unscrew the boost line fitting and screw in a pipe plug, don't need a functioning wastegate anyway. As long as the spring in the actuator is holding the wastegate flapper closed.
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