joem

pulled the lift pump and fuel strainer / heater off my old 12v after a leak developed in the area, got new parts from Geno's, I have a few quick questions:
1. How does one remove the old gasket off the block? its not torn, should I dare leave it alone? accessing it with anything to scrape it off is almost a no go.
2. What sealant do I use on the brass elbow that screws into the lift pump, and also the fuel line above the strainer? I see red something on the threads
3. Can I leave the heater un-plugged? we never get cold here and risk of fire on ageing heaters scares me after so many 4th gens went up in flames.
Thanks, Joe

nothingbutdarts

I replaced my lift pump on my 89 a few months ago, a back breaking job to get that gasket off but I succeeded! I used teflon tape very carefully on the threads. As I do not drive my truck in the cold I actually eliminated my heater. When I did my pump for some reason the o-ring for the heater started leaking so I just took it off with a Geno's adapter to replace the heater.

texasprd

I believe I used Permatex thread sealant last time on the lift pump elbow.

Getting to the gasket is difficult and a darned tedious job removing it, but is possible (did you pull the starter to get to the LP?). Some owners cut out the fender well to give access to the LP so they can go straight in the side.

You can leave the pre-heater unplugged. I have never heard of a fire on a 2nd gen caused by the preheater - not saying it can't/hasn't happened, but have never heard about it on any forum. The preheater sometimes gets blamed as a suction leak (causing hard starting and poor running) so it gets removed for that reason. I removed mine - I didn't need an adapter. I believe I was just able to take the nipple out of the heater section and put it in the upper housing - I don't remember the specifics, but I know I reused the nipple somehow

joem

I will take a look at that option of eliminating it all together, but it does space out the lift pump a bit- wonder if that will cause any issues? I did cut my inner fender about a inch on the top and bottom them bent it out of the way so i can bend it back when im done.

texasprd

Removing the prefilter housing entirely will cause a spacing problem with the lift pump. I suggest keeping the prefilter - in that case, you don't have any spacing issues and don't have to rearrange your fuel system plumbing. But if you are determined to remove the entire housing, either LarryB (fostertruck.com) or Geno's Garage sells a spacer to go between the LP and block.

Zekerbox

I just did the heater delete kit from Geno's on mine. It came with studs, 2 gaskets, spacer, elbow, fuel line, and clamp. The only thing I needed was some Teflon tape on the threads. If you have your injection pump out it's pretty easy to reach the block and clean up the gasket surface. I plugged the block with a rag and used a Dremel with a brass wheel on it to clean up the surface. The Dremel cleaned it up quick with some solvent.

joem

anyone know the strainer bowl and lift pump bot torque?