KDP Repair using TST Kit
 

THis is just a report for you guys..

If you are thinking about getting your KDP done, well this kit is easy to follow, I only had two problems, and none had to do with the kit, The first problem was that my fan shroud was cracked, i fixed it though, i glued it together, and drilled two holes, and ran a wire (doubled up) and tied it together, Worked great:D [laugh] and when i tried to remove the little connection hose from the washer fluid resevoir, well it was so sun and heat baked that the little connection just cracked, leaving me needing a new resevoir....:rolleyes:

Anyways, the instructions are crystal clear, i did the whole procedure by myself, took me about five hours with a lunch in between, the only advise i can give you guys who are about to do this is to Make a template of where the timing cover bolts go, and STICK TO IT.. also take a good note where the RPM sensor goes as well, That is the main advise..

It is also good to have a friend with you to do this project, because the removal of the fan using the four bolts is a doozie, and putting it back together by yourself is tough enough being that its a really tight area.. The whole project sums up to simple wrenching more than anything else, WIth the removal of the fan, the top radiator hose, and the fan shroud there is a surprising amount of room in there,

I got lucky, My KDP was still deep into the case, no signs of coming out, but now there is no chance and i will sleep better now knowing that the next time i turn on my truck it wont shake out that lil bugger...

The other issue, is the crankshaft seal, surprisingly i found this one of the EASIEST PARTS of the project.. I took out the old seal no problem, using a screwdriver and an engineers hammer, 1 lb... To put the new seal in i just followed the instructions in the TST kit, but rather than beat this thing in there, my dads old drill press happened to fit just right over the little seal, so i put the little stopper on the front side, and then i drove the seal in with the drill press and light taps, IN and out in five minutes.. no problems..

While i was there, i cleaned out the timing cover completely, Turns out that my crank seal was the cause for my oil loss, no leaks today, but im gonna check it religiously for a week, just to make sure. I also cleaned the screws completely and reused them, i ran them all thru a bench grinder using some vice grips....

In putting everything together, if you are by yourself, PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE for puttin the fan back on, you kinda have to put the shroud in first, then kinda hold it up somehow, and then sneak in the fan somehow and learn how it goes, its tough enough but i did it using my head to hold the shroud, my right arm and hand under the fan cluch holding it up and moving it and my left hand turning till i found the screw holes, did that once and i can say never again.. save urself the headache and have a friend with you...

After that everything else is a breeze... So to u guys that wanna do this, hope this helps. to you experienced fellas at this, have a laugh at this rookie KDP assasins adventure for today... I know im still laughin...[laugh] :D

Have a good one

Tx:D

Thanks for the writeup. I cross my fingers every time I drive my truck, and I hate that feeling. I really need to do mine. I figured, like you said, that it was pretty much just a bunch of wrenching, but I just haven't had the time to get involved in it. I also have Murphy riding shotgun at all times, so I know if anything can go wrong with the project, it will happen to me...so I am going to plan a whole day to the project, even though it shoudl only be a few hours.

Jim

I'll tell my story again............................
..........my pops (billja1) did his 95 at 123,000 the pin wouldn't budge so naturally when I bought my 95 at 64,000 I had no fears. But luckily I decided to do it popped the cover off the pin was hangin out about 3/8" lightly tapped on it and in it went, I might add it was bone stock at the time. So mileage has ZERO relevance mine I guarantee would have come out before the magic 80,000, I just kinda say to my brother (got......DIESEL?) count your blessings he says "well if it hasn't come out yet".

My advice git'r'done, it's a real simple job

I procrasinated mine off for a good few months, finally got it taken care of last week. It was loose enough to be taken out by hand, sticking out about 1/3rd of the way. This is after 135k miles so there are a good deal of people out there with more than that on theirs.

Kind of along those same lines, after checking the bolts inside the timing case one was only had tight which could have been a problem if I would have went with my original intention of just using the KDP jig. Instead all those bolts were taken out one by one and loctited so they'd stay in.

I also used TST kit to kill the KDP. Nice kit, clear instructions, it's a must!

Marc/

I'm trying to figure out all these "kits"...I thought all you had to do was put a modified (reshaped) washer under the head of a bolt to block off the end of the DP hole...if thats the case, what does the "kit" include, a 29 cent washer?

Another question, which might save time. Looking at the pictures I saw, it looks like instead of removing the whole timing cover, I should be able to just drill and tap a hole in front of the DP location in the timing cover and thread in the appropriate length screw to rest up against the DP and hold it in place. Anyone have a timing cover removed who can measure exactly where the DP is in relationship to the timing cover? Someone who fixes their DP should draw a template and post it on here for others doing the fix.

The way I see it, there is no real pressure on the dowel pin, so even a thin timing cover should hold it fine. Put grease on the drill bit and it will catch the shavings from drilling. Do the same with the tap used to thread the hole. Problem solved in 20 minutes instead of several hours.

Jim

Cancel what I said. I finally found it (hadn't seen it before on TSTs site) and see that it includes the crank seal and some loc-tite also. Considering a crank seal at Autozone (unknown brand-questionable quality) is $36, I guess $48 for everything isn't so bad.

I'm a cheap S.O.B. and try to save money whenever possible, so I question all expenses until I make sure I'm getting my money's worth. I might be cheap, but I don't sacrifice safety or reliability to save a few bucks.

Jim

http://www.pavementsucks.com/forums/...hp?topic=70419

Check this writeup as well. Its over at pavementsucks.com

Ur lookin at a jig fix...

if it serves its purpose for you then so be it, this did for me, plus i now better know what the front of my engine looks like.... I myself am not as good with a drill, and come to think of it, i didnt even know there was a jig fix for this till just a couple of days before i got my kdp kit from TST..

Tx

Hey thats my truck!:D

Glad to hear you got-er-done Rick.

I used the TST kit back in the spring. The hardest part for me was getting the fan & fan shroud out. I had to take out the upper radiator hose to get mine out. Besides me, 2 other very innovative poeple put thier hands on it, and could not figure it out.

So, to save time, I just took the stinking hose off, and out everything came. That was a waste of an hour!!

It was funny, becuase my dad walked out into the shop, and he thought I was doing some major engine work. The look on his face was priceless! He stood around too long, so I made him put the seal in the front cover while I put the tab on. If you hang around here too long , I'll put you to work. :D

It was overall an easy intsall (minus the fan). To keep track of the bolts, I laid a large piece of cardboard on the shop floor, and laid them out in their respective postions in the shape of the gearcase cover. The main thing is keeping people away from it so they dont acciedently trip over the cardboard and kick the bolts under a cabinet. Luckily, this did not happen to me....lol.

Later.
Phillip

I feel the jig fix is totally adequate for the dowel pin, I've personally used it on well over 50 engines. Takes about 45 minutes, the only new part needed is one bolt.
In fact the only reason I wouldn't use the jig is if you have a leak from the front seal, cover or case that requires taking things apart anyway. A jig kit is availible from Harold at rvhvnfn@juno.com or 208 850-8749.
$30 gets you the basic kit, postage paid.

infidel, do you use the pressurized crankcase method mentioned above, or do you just put some grease on the drill and tap? I've had to tap into places before where there couldn't be any shavings and the grease always worked fine. I'm glad there is a kit like that...it has my attention!

Jim

Jim, I pressurize the crankcase though the dipstick tube, 5 psi max, but the grease method should work just fine. Any chips are just soft aluminum and the only place they can go is into the oil pan.
Another method that works just as well to pressurize the crankcase is to duct tape the hose of a vacuum cleaner on blow to the oil fill spout. With this method you also must block off the blowby tube.

FWIW - The seal at Cummins (at least Cummins in Michigan) is $32.

Subscribing

At the top of every page there is "Thread Tools" inside of there you can find subscribe to this thread. Also subscibing to a thread that is nearly a year old doesn't generally do much good. ;)

Got mine ripped apart in the garage right now. Ordered the kit , should be here in a day or so. 10-4 on getting the fan/shroud out. I ll probably have more trouble getting the belt back on, they are a bear.

I never remove the shroud and have no problem removing the fan. Push the upper hose back and hook it behind the oil fill spout. Lift the fan with a blade on each side of the fill spout and rotate it while lifting up.

When I did mine this last weekend, the belt went on real easily. By far the easiest serpentine belt I have ever replaced.

Link?
 

Bill, wasn't there a link/site that showed how to use this method without having to purchase anything? (Yup, I'm a cheapskate...)
Dave

Dave, you would have to be a very good shot to get the hole in the right spot and angle. Plus the jig has a depth stop that will tell you if the pin is too far out to use the jig method.
Thirty bucks is pretty cheap insurance to avoid $1000-$3000 in damage.

Aaaaahhh...
 

Good point, Bill. Thanks!
Dave

By using the jig you cannot look at the bolt by the lube pump which is the bolt that will destroy your engine if it falls out I have seen that bolt lock the crank gear and shear the loc. pin then the engine has to be pulled

the only other thing the TST kit leaves out is to remove the wire loom clip on the center of the fan shroud underneath before you try to lift the shroud up and out. also, keep in mind if you ever sell your truck the potential buyer who probably never heard of a KDP is going to wonder who's been monkeying around drilling holes in the cover with bolts sticking out. just my 2 cents.

If you're speaking of the jig fix- there is only one bolt with a tapered head recessed flush with the cover and is impossible to see until the fan pulley is removed.

If you separate fan clutch/fan blade after breaking loose 36mm hub. everything drops right out without removing any radiator hoses. trick is to hold hub while using 36mm wrench. fab'd a special took to hold hub.

this one change alone saves HUGE amounts of time on KDP job.

no jig is needed. simply dimple dowel pin hole with flat chisel after driving pin deep into hole. new timing cover now comes with hole slightly smaller on one end to prevent pin from backing out.

dimpling hole does exact same thing. other option is use a thin elliptical washer from cummins.

use a brass .050in feeler gauge when setting crank sensor.

The entire fan with hub comes out as one unit without removing the shroud or any hoses, I do it all the time.
It only comes out one way though, you have to fold the upper radiator hose behind the oil fill, pull the fan up so that the oil fill is in-between two fan blades then rotate the fan clockwise.

If you use a jig to fix the KDP you don't have to pull the fan out anyway, just let it drop down out of the way. You can buy a jig cheaper than the seals required when taking off the cover and do the job five times faster with common hand tools. Harold sells jigs for $30 -- Email address is rvhvnfn@juno.com or 208 850-8749

Anyone who says they can use the bolt block method without a jig is full of it. It would be like hitting a bulls eye from 100 yards blindfolded.

ya.. you can do it that way, but too much risk of damaging something trying to align fan clutch assembly to just right angle to slip out.

when you can unbolt fan from fan clutch. took me 5 minutes at most. then fan/hub is a fraction of original size and drops effortlessly out of the way.

why do you need a jig at all? too easy to dimple dowel pin hole or use $3 washer from Cummins. need red thread locker if you move any internal bolts.

once fan/fan clutch is out of the way. KDP job is quite simple. hardest part of the job is the break fan loose from hub.

I took fan off at engine, 4- 10 mm bolts and youre done.:cool:

With the jig you don't have to remove the cover and replace the seal plus it takes a quarter of the time.
Totally adequate for a problem that won't effect 99.9% of engines.

Don't understand what you're talking about, there is nothing to align or damage.

Guys he is right!!!!
 

TxDiesel007, you are absolutely right. The procedure from the tst kit along with a printout that I got off of this website is what made my kdp quick and easy. The pin was about an 1/8th of an inch out and it took a little elbow grease to get it to move past flush in the hole. Now I can sleep much better at night knowing that this is one less thing for me to worry about. EASY INSTALL.

sorry about being not being more clear...

total cost to fix my KDP was $3 for cummins washer. really didn't have to buy that. could have dimpled hole with flat chisel.

however I did purchase seal and TC gsk from cummins before job. turned out I didn't use the TC gsk or use the seal. but that was because my main shaft had grooves. logic was a new seal was more likely to leak than original seal. if it leaked... would had to get an oversized seal kit anyways.

did purchase a 36mm wrench ($12), but lots of parts stores will loan fan clutch removal wrench for free.

my preference is to remove timing cover VS drilling into cover. removing timing cover is really simple.

hardest part of the job is to break loose fan clutch hub.

please don't get me wrong, there nothing wrong with jig method.
just that removing timing cover was easier for me.

Glad this post can be of help to you

and everyone else.. Its amazing, i wrote this over a year ago and its still gettin views..

Thanks again for the kind words guys!

Rick

Six years later..

and another go at this with the new truck, and i still agree... probably the best kit money can buy for the job...

This job went a little different tho, being that the fan screws were so rusted in, that i stripped one, A small grinder and 1/2 hr later, i got the screw off, and resumed with the task, as straightforward as it is...

another issue i had was that the damper would turn even with the truck in gear, easily solved with cheeter pipe and bricks..

The fan R and R tho was so much easier than the first time being that i remembered exactly how to do it...

total time was six hours, and thats with a water pump replaced, as well as a tensioner, new belt, and cleaning out everything.. oh and lunch and a conversation...