rwright07

I've recently acquired a 94 12 valve powered dodge, that has proven to have a totally untouched engine. Although this means good things for the longevity of the motor, I fear it also means that the KDP has never been taken care of.

I have done a KDP tab fix for a friend on his 24 valve in the past, but not until reading about the KDP again for my 12V specific application did I learn about the jig method, seems like a good time saver and saves the steps for taking off the timing cover and replacing the front crank seal

This 224k mile motor passed the blow by test with flying colors, and had never had the P-pump opened up. I just installed a gauge set this last week, modified the AFC for full travel, set the stock plate and AFC full forward, and tuned the starwheel and pre-boost fueling screw for slight haze before the boost comes on with the stock exhaust. The truck moves a whole lot better now! It has a recently rebuilt 47RH that shifts well and already has the potentiometer mod installed to bypass the TPS.


Ive got another quick question, the stock fuel plate leaves my EGTs still utterly safe at 1000 degrees and with the stock exhaust I have only seen 21psi with the wastegate actuator hose clamped off. Which fuel plate or modified plate cut profile can I safely install with this "factory rebuild" transmission?

oliver foster

My understanding is any fuel plate mods with a stock style auto transmission is not totally "safe" anymore.
I always here people more knowledgeable than me on autos recommend at minimum a performance torque converter and flex plate.
Most also recommend an upgraded valve body.