Junkyard hub conversion
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Chico CA
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Junkyard hub conversion
Hi every buddy i recently did a hub swap on my 95 that was very affordable and so far is working very well so i figured I’d share the info.
So basically i used ford Dana 50 ttb parts to replace my unit Barings, as i was afraid they would leave me stranded on day and they are very costly to replace.
As you can see in the pictures i started out with the factory ford spindles. Then i plug welded 3 of the holes, and then ground it with a flap disc so i was basically starting with a clean slate. Then i re drilled the spindle to Mach the factory dodge knuckles 4 bolt pattern. The ford spindles are a perfect press fit into the dodge knuckle. For a stub shaft i used a factory Chevy or dodge 30 spline stubs. You CANNOT use the ttb stub shafts as they use a different u joint.
For the brakes i used rooters from a 78-79 ford f 350 with a Dana 60, after some messing around i figured out those were the ones that enabled my dodge calipers to line up. After attaching my new stub shafts to the factory inners, changing the rooters, and making the spindles i was able to bolt it all together just like it was mean to be
So the end result left me with locking hubs, which are always nice seeing they save your u-joints and help your fuel economy slightly. And good cone wheel bearings which if you keep greased will basically last forever.
Now for the cost; I got the ttb parts from a buddy who did a solid axle swap for free (those parts are everywhere) they have to be from the big hub Dana 60 style ttb. You CANNOT use the dana 44 style. and then the set of rooters from kragen for like 70 bucks. New pads were like 50. I also did all new wheel bearings and races which wound up being like another 100 bucks. I also did new u-joints sense I was in there and they we around 80. So all together I spent around 300 dollars on the conversion.
So basically i used ford Dana 50 ttb parts to replace my unit Barings, as i was afraid they would leave me stranded on day and they are very costly to replace.
As you can see in the pictures i started out with the factory ford spindles. Then i plug welded 3 of the holes, and then ground it with a flap disc so i was basically starting with a clean slate. Then i re drilled the spindle to Mach the factory dodge knuckles 4 bolt pattern. The ford spindles are a perfect press fit into the dodge knuckle. For a stub shaft i used a factory Chevy or dodge 30 spline stubs. You CANNOT use the ttb stub shafts as they use a different u joint.
For the brakes i used rooters from a 78-79 ford f 350 with a Dana 60, after some messing around i figured out those were the ones that enabled my dodge calipers to line up. After attaching my new stub shafts to the factory inners, changing the rooters, and making the spindles i was able to bolt it all together just like it was mean to be
So the end result left me with locking hubs, which are always nice seeing they save your u-joints and help your fuel economy slightly. And good cone wheel bearings which if you keep greased will basically last forever.
Now for the cost; I got the ttb parts from a buddy who did a solid axle swap for free (those parts are everywhere) they have to be from the big hub Dana 60 style ttb. You CANNOT use the dana 44 style. and then the set of rooters from kragen for like 70 bucks. New pads were like 50. I also did all new wheel bearings and races which wound up being like another 100 bucks. I also did new u-joints sense I was in there and they we around 80. So all together I spent around 300 dollars on the conversion.
#3
I just completed mine too. I didn't use the chevy stub shafts, if you get Ford Dana 60 stubs the ujoints will fit and they are the correct length. I also went with the 78-79 rotors.
Floyd
Floyd
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Chico CA
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah i reed some where elese that the ford stubs left the u joint to far out ward and not inline with the ball joints which i thought sounded kinda critical, but anyways thats why i used the chevys. i have a set of fords layin around too and im thinkin about puttin those in it becuse they would fit better and acually seal nice and tight aginst the spindle.
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Chico CA
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Actually it wasn’t that bad, I was surprised. I also thought the spindles were going be hardened but actually drilling the holes went smoothly. I happen to have the knuckles off seeing i was also doing ball joints, so i just put the whole thing in the vice and used my 9/16 drill bit to mark center of the holes. Then pulled the spindle off the knuckle and used my marks to drill some pilot holes and then drilled them to 9/16 seeing that i did not tap mine i just used a nuts and bolts.
Trending Topics
#9
Here are some links to sites that helped me. Some replaced with the Ford Knuckle out and others re-drilled the spindles as we did.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=716129
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=874442
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...light=Ford+hub
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...kout-swap.html
Floyd
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=716129
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=874442
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...light=Ford+hub
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...kout-swap.html
Floyd
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: plymouth, mass
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hub conversion
will this work on my 1999? and will the rotors be able to be removed without removing most of my front end like i have to do now?
eliminating these unit bearings is worth a few skinned knuckles and curses!
thanks guys
eliminating these unit bearings is worth a few skinned knuckles and curses!
thanks guys
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Chico CA
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes this was will work on your truck. Dodge changed the front axles in these trucks in 2000. Unfortunately removing your rotors with this swap still wouldn’t be as easy as the hat rotoers the newer trucks have. You still have to pull the hub off the spindle and beat the studs out, but honestly i would rather do that than try to fight those d*** unit bearings out to change them.
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: plymouth, mass
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hub conversion
maybe i will just swap the front axel to a 2002 model to get the outboard rotors and then do the hub swap- being able to remove rotors without all the extra work would make life much easier
The following users liked this post:
death row dave (07-24-2018)