Hey all, I'm just thinking about taking out the stock intake manifold and replacing it with an aftermarket one. A couple of questions....What all will I have to change out when I do this? Do I need to upgrade anything else when I do this? Now the big one...which name brand is best Banks, AFE, CFM, or what? Been looking at different websites and each brand is saying why they are the best and why they are better than the others out there. Thanks for all the help and information.

 

I'm pretty sure they just bolt right in. I've seen 12v's over 700hp with the stock intake horn..I think the money would be better spent elsewhere, imo.

 

I've installed a couple of Banks Twin Ram intakes on 12 valves.
The owners reported zero gain from them, they look cool though.
Install is actually pretty involved but the kit includes good instructions and all the parts.
It isn't just the air horn that gets replaced but also the intake plenum (manifold). The phenum divides the intake into two ports instead of one. Each port gets it's own grid heater instead of them being stacked on top of each other.
That's why these things are so expensive, there's a lot more to them than meets the eye.

 

There must be an improvement - the stock elbow is restrictive, the real question is what EGT changes happened before and after the elbow change (assuming no other changes at the same time)
The twin ram intake style is designed to help flow to the end cylinders. The intake ports are angled so intake air has trouble flowing against the grain, so to speak, back to the #1 cylinder and with the distance less air gets to the #5 and #6 so splitting the elbow more evenly distributes the intake air charge.

Just reducing the restriction in the stock elbow has to make a difference... but I concede unless you are working on smaller scale fuel mods (dropping a #0 plate, twins, DVs and sticks will give more performance on their own leaving less noticed by a more moderately fueled engine) it is probably not as necessary.

 

I've got a bunch of old Banks brochures and the twin ram level 4 (power pack) kit added 16.5 hp @ 2300 rpm and 49 ft lbs of torque @ 1900 rpm over the level 3 (stinger plus) kit.

Times for 0-60 dropped from 9.56 to 9.33, distance to acheive 60 mph dropped 10 feet from 567 feet to 557 feet. The test truck was a 1995 2wd 5 spd weighing 6,200 lbs.

Truck dynoed 264 hp @ 2300 and 696 trq @ 1900 rpm.

 

Really?? MUST??


I've seen some of the highest power 12v truck in the country using the stock intake horn....compared to the cast manifold and the hump in front of the #1 intake port, that horn is really nothing.

But if you want to pay $400+ and "feel" a difference, go ahead...I'll save my money for better parts!

Chris

 

If some of "the highest hp 12v trucks" had used a twin ram or other manifold, what would the increase in hp and decrease in egt's be is the real question.

 

Negligible I bet, since the actual cast manifold and the ports is a bigger restriction. Cut off the intake, then you don't have to worry about intake horns.

 

The TwinRam was an effort to accomplish the same thing as cutting off the stock/OEM intake-log so as to access the intake runners for porting. Better distribution of the charge-air. More consistent EGTs per cylinder allows adding more fuel without the one cylinder running hot and ruining the day for all.

But then . . . . >sarcasm<

Cutting off the stock/OEM cast intake-log does not in itself add any power so it must be a total waste of time and money too I guess.

But still it is true, 100+ psig of boost will push through most any stock feed-horn.

> And there's been plenty of stock intake-horn trucks whooped by others with better feed-horns.

 

Build one and find out for yourself...I believe about 1415hp is the mark to shoot for


It can't be, the stock horn is way too restrictive!


I know exactly why the Twin Ram was designed...and I don't believe I said it didn't do anything...just not that I wouldn't pay for the minimal gains.

I have seen test where they balanced individual cylinder EGT's to withing about 25-50* of each other, which is pretty good. Better airflow can only be good for the engine....but, not many other intake horns do what the Twin Ram does...they just claim to flow better. I've never seen a test done that proved to drop EGT's and make more power...and for $400, I'm spending my money on a real airflow improvement...a CAMSHAFT!


Best investment on any Cummins, IMO
Chris

 

When the Twin Ram first came out I talked to a Banks rep at a trade show about them.
He said that they didn't see any hp or egt improvements but that the Ram might increase engine longevity.
That's from a guy who was supposed to be selling them.

I know of an 800 hp 12 valve that has the stock intake.
Think your money is spent better elsewhere.

 

In my honest opinion I feel you are wasting your money on the aftermarket
intake manifolds! I have personally tried three of them and NONE OF THEM gave my 1996 Dodge CTD ANY added H.P.or TQ.! They also did not lower my EGT's. Now,....with that being said,..... I installed ALL of them on an already "modified" engine, so that may or may not have made a difference.

I am running the STOCK intake manifold on my modified 1996 Dodge CTD 12 valve. You can look at my signature to see where I am at on H.P./TQ.

--------
John_P

 

my buddy sent his truck to a shop in the US for some fancy banks kit, cost him about 5000 by the time the stuff was installed including a new head gasket.. it has the twin ram, banks plate, different turbine side of the turbo, banks exhaust, banks air filter setup, etc etc.. our trucks are twins other than color, same tires etc.. he went for a drive in mine and i went in his and we both agreed mine pulled a bit harder with whats in my sig, except i had my stock slipping converter and a #10 plate at the time.. his EGTs are on par with mine.. if i were you i would save the $$$$.. with the 100 plate and the converter its not even a race now.

 

wow this is an interesting thread, I am a newbie to the diesel world and wont begin to claim to know much of anything about diesel performance,BUT I have had my fair share of hot cars in my 25 years on the road,and I just gotta say,I dont get it. These diesel's rev to what? 2.5k stock,3,4k modded,How much air do we think we need.I could understand on High revving Gas motors(my last hot rod was a05WRX STI,That I still have a dyno sheet with a 320 WHP and 390 WTQ,And that hp was made around the 4.5k to 6k range before it dropped off. These 5.9's are big bored and need air distribution to make big #'s But as far as spending mucho buks for some of the stuff I've seen out there.again I dont see it improving perf.unless the motor is really spinning and demanding more intake air to match a Subst,increased fuel flow. I am trying to learn about this diesel stuff,because I am a diyselfer and love my Ram,(Ive had dodge W series gassers in my driveway for the past 20 years) those I modded with headers intakes Ign,cams,ect. Again to make power in the Mid range 3 to 6 k rpm., Hearing that 700hp is made with stock intakes does'nt surprise me,nor does hearing claims of no increase with expensive aftermarket parts. I'm a firm believer that these high $ items are very high quality and most likely more durable than production run factory pieces,I personally buy these kinds of parts when the stockers fail. But for durability reasons not because There gonna do what the ads say.most of those claims on Cold air intakes, manifolds,exg systs, and such are plain bunk.Tuning a comp controlled system to take advantage of those parts does vastly improve perf. sorry to ramble. Keep helpin me learn.

 

No where in this thread it is stated the stock intake horn is holding someone back from making 750, 1000 or 1500 hp.

Since the op asked about a twin ram, I presented figures from the brochure.

Is money better spent on a cam, injectors, pump work, turbo, ported head, etc...............................heck yeah.

Is there something to be gained from an aftermarket air horn on a p-pump 12 valve? Sounds like John P and infidel are the only ones to find out.