My plastic fuel tank is wet down the sides and seems to be leaking in the area on top of tank. it's definetly diesel. My best guess would be the return line going back to the tank because if it was the suction side the pump/filter would become airbound.

I had planned on replacing the fuel lines next fall anyway, looks like they beat me to it. I'm guessing I have to remove those 2 big straps and let the tank down to see what i'm doing? I have less than 1/4 tank so i will not put more in till i do this project.

has anyone done this yet? hints? i would like to replace all the lines while i'm down there. I noticed the lines start out rubber up near the transfer pump, then they switch to steel then they must switch back to rubber in order to let the tank down.

am i better off going with all rubber front to back? what is the best choice for longevity? rubber?steel?something else?



thanks in advance!

 

You can also unbolt the box and raise it up without removing your tank.

I've dropped the tank also, pretty straight forward. Use two clamps on each hose when you re-hose everything.

 

It would be helpful to put your truck info in the user control pannel , so its easyer to help ya . I've read that there is a upgrade and or a TSB depending on yr. & mod. do a search and should be able to find.

 

Be careful. The fittings on the tank end are the new fangled plastic pinch and release type. You can lower the front of the tank down quite aways then using a floor jack lower the rear about 4-6 inches to get your hands up in their to disconnect the plastic hoses and fittings. This would best be done on a warm day or in a heated garage as they are quite stiff to get the clamps to release. I also had a very difficult time getting them reclipped when I was done. You can get replacements fittings from NAPA though. If your going to take the tank down and you have a 2 piece drive shaft you need a deep well 15 mm socket for the tank band clamp bolts. Mine wasn't deep enough unless I had the bolt end in the socket square drive hole to break it loose. Of coures its a lock nut so use you air ratchet if you have one after you break them loose. Good luck. Ken Irwin

 

Abandon the intake and return lines all all the way from the tank to engine and replace with hose while you're at it. Less trouble down the road. Take to time to source USCG rated fire proof diesel hose and it will last as long as the truck.
I wouldn't even consider dropping the tank, tilting the bed is much easier.

 

Thanks!

i could probably get the line from west marine. they sell boat stuff. now you say tilt the bed? explain, I'm not a auto body person.



96 stocker, auto, reg cab.

 

Remove 3 bolts on tank side that secure the bed. Remove the screws holding the filler neck plastic in place. Loosen the three bolts on the pass side, and lift the bed. May have to watch the wiring to make sure you have enough slack. Place a couple blocks under it till your done. You will have plenty of room.

Two people can carry a dually bed with little problem.

Takes about 10 minutes to lift the bed. Very easy.

Ed

 

10-4!

there is nothing else attached to the bed that i could break when we lift?

thanks, I'll give it a try. any idea on the id of the fuel line 3/8"?1/2"


i'm guessing the return line starts at the injector pump overflow and heads to the tank? the suction starts at the transfer pump and heads to the tank?

 

I'm not sure of the diameter of the line, but it has been posted in the past.

I don't remember anything else that will get in the way of the bed. Just take it easy in case I forgot something. It's been a while since I lifted mine to put a hitch together.

Lines sound about right.

Ed

 

The lines on my '95 were 3/8" supply and 5/16" return but I bought a roll of 3/8" and used it for both. You can actualy see the top of the tank if you look up from behind the drivers side fender. On mine the metal lines were rusted out at the quick connector fittings. I just cut off the quick connectors and attached the new hose to the metal lines with two hose clamps - I did this without dropping the tank or lifting the bed. Not an ideal fix but hopefully it will last till the weather is warmer and I can remove the bed and replace the sending unit properly.

 

It could also be the collar holding the sending unit in the tank could be loose. If this is a used truck for you, that could be the case. When I changed my sending unit, I did not tighten the collar enough, and it was leaking like you described. Fill it up, and look under there. You can sit in an upright position between the frame and the box, so you are eye level with the top of the tank. I bet it is the collar that is loose. You will need a big strap wrench to tighten it.

 

if it is rotted out lines on the sending unit, does anyone know where to get one aftermarket?

 

Ok,

got the bed tilted (left to right), 8 15mm bolts, one groundwire (pass. side) just poped out a wire harger to give extra slack in wire.

took the module out, the steel elbows into the module were rotted.

ordered a reman module from dodge $128

called west marine, they have 3/8" diesel fuel appoved USCG A fuel line in stock.


I have to replace the filler tube/vent and the plastic shroud that the filler tube/vent screws into at the fuel cap.


are these dealer items only?

 

check the classafides here I thought I saw a sending unit for sale.

 

Ok,

I replaced the module and the lines, the old 90 degree elbows at the module were toast.

the new module came through with plastic 90's.

I put it all back together and went to get fuel to find the gauge did not move. I had plugged the module in prior to installing in tank to check the float to be operational.

I then squezzed under there, loosend the plastic colar, rotated the module about 10 degrees and the gauge started to register.

now I'm getting a leak up there again! I only have about a half tank of fuel.


any ideas?