Beast2B

OK, so I can see the rod lift when the engine cranks and it sounds like it's running while holding the key to START for a second. It will not keep the rod up when I let the key return to RUN. Bad solenoid? Any other voltage to check?

infidel

The solenoid rarely goes bad and is probably the most replaced needlessly item on a 12 valve.

With the key on you should have 12 volts between the black and green wire to the solenoid.
If not you have a bad key switch, bad ASD relay or a blown fuse.

Beast2B

thanks infidel. fuse 9 is good, i'll look at the pin voltage when i get home. the ASD relay is in the power distribution center by the driver's side battery, right? the truck started and ran fine a year ago. sat for 6 months after an accident and hasn't started normally since (worked fine to get the truck off the tow truck the same day). i have been able to zip tie the solenoid plunger up just to run it in the driveway to keep oil flowing and shift through the trans.
do i recall (semi-correctly maybe?) someone used a switch in the cab in that black/green circuit as a theft prevention device? seems like I could get 12v to it when I want to, especially since the solenoid is lifting fine...

infidel

Correct, sometimes.
Some years, I'm not sure which, don't use an ASD relay.
There is a labeled spot for it in the PDC but no relay.

ET RAM

Separate the 3 pin connector for the fuel solenoid. You will see 3 wires on the solenoid side. Black= ground Red= hold and White= pull. Find the corresponding sockets on the truck side connector. Turn the key to on and test for voltage at the socket for the red wire. You should have battery voltage. This circuit holds the solenoid on and is powered by fuse #9.

Now have a helper turn the key to start. Test for voltage at the socket for the white wire. You should have voltage each time the key is held to start. This circuit pulls the solenoid on and should be powered only when you turn the key to start.

You can test the solenoid itself with 3 jumper wires. Connect one wire to the black ground pin and to a good ground. Connect another wire to the red hold pin and to battery positive. Connect a good thick 10ga. wire to the white pull pin.

Now very briefly touch the thick wire to battery positive. Do not touch for a long period as you are dealing with a high amperage draw. The solenoid should pull on. When you remove the wire from the battery terminal the solenoid should stay on being held on by the current thru the red pin.

If it does not work this way you have a problem in the solenoid.

Beast2B

thanks again guys. the truck is now at the body/frame shop, so access will be limited. I had to zip tie the solenoid rod temporarily, but I will continue the fight next week when I get her back.

Joe Lemelin

This thread is AWESOME! I replaced my burned up solenoid and it still wouldn't work. The motor would start and then stop as soon as I let off the key. I didn't have the proper voltage I was supposed to at the connector. Then I checked the #9 fuse. It was blown! I bought a new fuse and put it in and my truck started right up! Thank you very much guys. This saved me a trip to a mechanic...

DHT

Ive replaced both the solenoid and relay this week on my 96 and still have to get out and lift the hood too push the magnet up to crank it and run it. Ive done all the previous checks above and my problems seems to be Im only getting 9volts to it....What can I do to try an figure out where my problem is coming from???? I saw something metioned about my ingnition???? How do I check it?

infidel

Start out by replacing the blue fusible link wire from the battery.
They can get corrosion under the insulation where you can't see it and cause low voltage to the lift coil of the solenoid.

DHT

Will do Thank You! Any other sugestions before I purchase a new ignition switch?

infidel

If you have to go that route buy a security torx bit also.
Read> http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/ign_switch.htm

Dojman

I have to clean my battery cable connections occasionally (often, in winter), to keep mine working properly.

DHT

Ive replaced all all battery connectors going to each battery and cleaned post very well.....Still Dont have 12 Volts....Ignition switch is the only thing left I do believe...Where is the best place to purchase one of these?

DHT

Infidel where exactly is this Blue fusable link located???? Sorry for the ignorance in advance!

patdaly

Here you go, about 1/3rd down, good reference material to have.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...enoid-fss.html