I have replaced the lines to the engine from the main connectors to/from the tank.. I only replaced the original rubber lines so I did not remove the metal flex lines from the frame to just behind the engine.That being done, I still seem to be getting air.

1. Should I replace the metal flex lines from the frame to the engine?

2. I was wondering about that line on the lift pump just above the manual pump as mine looks a little moist. Has anyone replaced that line??


Thanks...

J-eh

 

I haven't done this either, but most seem to prefer replacing ALL of the fuel lines with rubber lines as the metal flex lines can get hairline cracks that may not leak fuel but will let air in.
Dave

 

Tje leaking line is likely the one from the lift to the injection or else the return line. They are the ones that are hard to get at, of curse.

 

Well I have replaced the rubber lines on the supply and return lines at the engine.


On another forum I have had suggestions of the lift pump lines, there are 2 lines on the lift pump/heater circuit that may be failing as well. That sorta coincides with the diesel smell I get only when the unit is warm. With that I was thinking it must be in the return line system or at the lift pump...

Thanks.

 

If you smell diesel you should be able to find a wet spot. Most common one when you can't see it is on top of the bell housing. Reach up there and feel around, I'll bet one of the steel lines is cracked. When than happens I just abandon the steel lines all the way from the engine to the tank and replace with diesel rated hose.

 

I replaced my lines tank to pump and still had a leak. I could tell that the fittings on top of the tank had been patched before. So i pressurized the system and pin-pointed the leak in a couple of seconds. The 3/8 tank fitting it-self was leaking just above the plate that they pass through. I patched it again with expoy for a later repair date. Holding up great so far.

 

Have you pulled the electrical connection out of the fuel heater element and checked for wetness? I've seen a few.

 

No I haven't. I will investigate that whole area over the weekend.

Thanks Guys..

J-eh

 

Just went thru this fuel line stuff- engine end...I did the "easy one" no problem, but the one that runs down and behind the engine is impossible. Have you guys really changed that hose...by feel alone...I can't even tell what kind of clamp is on the end of it?

Wouldn't it be easier to (A) drop the assembly down off the side of the transmission and work on it on the ground under the truck (disconnect it off the back of the engine- clamp you can see)?

Or (B) abandon the entire old line- cuting it at the frame rail and running a new line up thr the back of the engine?

I'm a believer in "if it's too hard to do...you must be doing something wrong" or in other words- there must be an easier way!?

Any opinions?

 

I never fool with the lines on top of the tranny anymore, besides being hard to get at many times in wrestling with them you flex the steel line enough to crack it then you have a new leak. I now run diesel rated hose from the engine all the way back to the tank on every one.

 

Bill:

My only concern with running an entire new line is the path down from the engine- to keep it safe?

Bill (infidel) sounds like you've down this a few times- any hints on the path (where should the fuel line be attached when it makes the trip down from the engine)

Thanks. Doug

 

I go straight back from the attachment points on the engine avoiding the top of the tranny and cable tie it to the old steel lines. There are tons of place to secure the hose but leave a little slack on the engine end to compensate for engine movement. I use USCG rated hose, almost twice as thick as the stock stuff. You can also slip the hose though plastic electrical loom to protect it further.