Going to be starting the fresh rebuilt 12 valve this weekend.

Which filter and oil? Was thinking Premium Blue and a Fleetguard filter. What yall think?

How long do I run it before changing the oil? The normal 6k or sooner?

 

First change much much sooner.

I will try to find this certain site that has very unconventional break-in philosophy and methodology with apparent excellent results. Back soon.

-ultra

 

First oil and filter change within the initial warm up. Then again @ the first 1K mi. Should be good to go after that!

 

Use a non detergent 30w oil [ do not spend money on high priced oil , till the 3rd fill ] , 1st after a warm up & run of at lest a combined hr. , or up to 300-500 hrs.
Then again at 1,500 -2,500 miles , then put in a good basic dyno oil , Rottella 15w40 , use oil analysis to determine how often , not sooner than 5-6,000 , I've seen oil analysis show that that oil was good at 15,000 miles .
The idea here is that it can take 20,000 +++ miles for the engine to break in , no need to spend big bucks on oil till after breakin , the best oil can keep breakin from happing as soon .

 

So......

Run 30w for the first 1500-2k miles

Then run rotella or something of the sort till about 15-20k

Then switch to the Blue...

Not sure where or how to get an oil analysis done, so is this a I should be ok, way to do it?

 

Yes, but make sure you change it after the first run in and warm up period. You will get alot of initial trash on start up as well as wash out of all the assembly and moly lube. Moly lube will plug the filter so change that as well. After that then go the 1000-2000 miles.

 

Oil analysis, Blackstone Labs, Google them, or your local Cummins dealer/repair, at least mine will do it. I use Blackstone.

 

I broke in my car and motorcycle engine this way and they both run strong. Little controversial, but it worked for me.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

Good link .
Thats what I for got in my reply .
After the 1st oil change [ warm up / 20 minutes ] get a trailer , load it heavy - combined weight of 10,000 lbs [ not including truck ] , find some hills and work it , that does not mean beat it , but work it , 1,500-2,000 miles change again [ a good regular diesel oil ] , work it , be easy on it [ for fuel millage ] after 20,000 .
Racers , racers machine shops ect , will run engine hard & at all normal RPM ranges before installing [ dyno ] .
I was told this by my favorite machine shop , back in the seventies , go drive it hard at all RPM normal levels , this was the place that was going to fix if there was a problem .

 

Bull Duram on non detergent 30 weight. At least use conventional Diesel oil. Change it ever ten miles if you wish and filter ever twenty. If you built engine clean and it has proper clearences you are good to go for 2500 miles the first time. No amount of oil changing will help a poorly built engine. Loading and getting engine a little warm will speed the wearing in of rings.

 

break it in with 10w-30 for 100hrs if you had to add oil in break in start over

 

I will agree to some extent on the wear issues, however a new engine will make metal no matter how clean or how well built. Rings do seat in about the first 15 minutes as well as cam break in if new. However, this breakin still makes metal....

 

This certainly is the MOST controversial topic regarding engines.

Anyone would have a very hard time convincing me against the following link.

The dude broke in 300+ engines at time of writing and has lots of photographic proof.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Anyone here broke in 300 engines and taken them apart to see what they looked like?




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