Looks like it might be the one that is turned inside the rear cover to adjust the fuel plate lever? Guess it came out. I don't know how, I thought I tightened that down good. What damage can this cause? It was wedged in there somewhere, I have a pic. It came right out with a magnet.

Also, anyone now a replacement part #? Hopefully I can press the fuel pedal down now. I haven't checked yet, I was too excited after I found this part.




So what's next?

 

they dont sell that screw seperate, you may have better luck finding one at a hardware store, even if you have to buy a machine screw and cut off the head and use a dremel to make the slot for the flat bit to go into.

 

OK pedal is still stuck (as is trying to move it from the rear of the inj pump). I disconnected the linkage to isolate it, still won't turn. That screw was fished out under the fuel plate. I stuck the magnet down the rear hole underneath the back cover, and pulled out a washer. I can't find anything else inside yet, but, it's still stuck. It feels like this was in the BOTTOM hole in the back, not the top one. Feels like the bolt/nut in the top hole is still there.

Is there a nut still floating around in there somewhere I haven't found yet?

 

In this pic here, is the top screw in the pic the top screw on the truck? Or is it backwards? If it's correct, then I guess there is still that nut floating somewhere.

 

Also, is it possible to remove my pump, and shake it upside down and hope whatever is in the way falls out?

 

it is... when I did a gsk on my 215 pump on a bench, I dropped something in there... thought I did at least... turned it over and shook the pump, washer fell out.

 

I hope that's what it is, well, better than replacing the pump. I searched everything I could think of but can't find a how-to on removing this pump. Is there one on here? I searched "remove" "replace" "injector pump" etc., couldn't find a good thread.

What all should be in there? That bolt I found, the washer I found, and I assume there is a nut somewhere running around too eh? The bottom hole is the lever adjustment right?

 

yeah, I think you didn't lock down that nut tight enough

good chance you may have bent a governor stud, but I've heard of guys bending them back. pump R&R is pretty self explanitory. but you'll want a snap-on flex socket for the 4 pump bolts. I believe they're 13mm. there's one that's a real pain to get to. I was able to use a 15* reversable gear wrench on it, but my buddy swears by the flex socket.

I'm pretty sure I've got FSM's on a dvd somewhere in .pdf, shoot me a PM w/ your address, and I'll try to burn you a copy. but like I said, it's pretty self explanitory.

 

OK shot ya a PM. Maybe I didn't lock it down tight enough, guess that's what it has to be. I'm kicking myself in the *** right now. Bigtime.

What I did notice that I said in the other thread is that it was revving way higher than it should, wasn't stopping at ~3000, it was going way past that.

I could probably get the thing off by looking at the nuts/bolts, but I've seen things here and there about pinning and marking crap. Plus I would need to probably spin the pump once it's out, to dislodge whatever's in there.

 

that's what makes me think it might be a bent governor stud... you can pin the motor and pump, but you'll still want to time it w/ a dial indicator IMHO... with that said, you don't necessarily need to pin either of them... once you get the pump in, crank the engine till you get your plunger height, break the pump nut loose, pull the #1 valve cover, use the drop-valve method to find true TDC, then watch the valves to make sure you're on the compression stroke, lock the pump nut down, and you're in business.

 

it is a 15mm swivel socket and get a good one, snap on, mac or matco. makes pulling the pump a piece of cake. just remove the fuel fileter before you try to pull the pump. i had to do it again this friday.

 

sounds like fun! wait... no it doesn't!

I really prefer driving these things a lot more than I do working on them

 

Yay can't wait. How long do you expect it to take to remove? I'm not dumb or mechanically un-inclined, just new to this truck.

I have a dial indicator, do I need Snap-On's special kit? Or just certain parts of it?

If anyone could link me a how-to on removing this that would be thsssssuper.

Just want to make sure I do it right...I'll still use the DVD.

 

Holy cow! Single Snap-On socket is $35!!!

 

you'll also need a delivery valve socket in order to set timing... you're gonna need a timing set.