1stGEN'93

I have a 1993 dodge w250 that only has 127,XXX miles on it, but the previous owner thought it was a good idea to run veggie oil in it and then let it sit for 2 years. I rescued the old girl and trying to make a daily driver out of it. Lift pump left me stranded so it's brand new now with a Hungary Diesel Low Pressure High Volume one now on the list of things to do. I've just got to get the thing running first. After replacing the lift pump I thought it was good, but it is still dying on me. I saw 2 different videos on 2 different 12 valves on YouTube (1996 p-pumped one's though) that had almost the same thing happening and then they adjusted idle up to around 750-800 rpm and problem solved. Do you think this could be the same thing that is going on with my truck? It will run down road, but when you go to slow down it stalls. One thing I noticed the other day is that the full fuel screw lock nut had come loose somehow (I haven't touched it since I got the truck) and I'm wondering if through vibration over time if it turned itself down and consequently lowered the idle WAY down and if that's what's causing it to stall. Doesn't seem like it has even as much power as a stock 12 valve, and this one's not stock with the hx-35 and obviously the fuel screw has been tampered with before since the sleeve is gone. Any input? Hopefully this is just an easy fix! Thanks again!

deere country

Any and all diesels will not run if the rpm falls below a specific rpm. All engines are different and will have a different minimum speed they need to run before they die. So to answer your question yes if it idles to low it will not maintain operation. It's possible your idle adjustment backed off but its more likley beacause of age that the idle rpm has changed as with all things age and wear will affect your idle speed.

deere country

Also likley their was nothing wrong with your lift pump you just replaced. A fuel pressure gauge may have saved you the expense of a new lift pump. I would ad it to your want list to install next.

patdaly

Yep, forget all the idiots who tell you to idle it down. Cummins idle spec is 750 RPMs......... Set it there and be well.

MAC702

My 96 needed the idle adjusted a couple times throughout its life. First symptom was usually stalling when in reverse.

1stGEN'93

Here’s what came out of the tank when I took what was left in it out before taking it to be professionally cleaned.
im pretty sure it was bad because when I unhooked the line coming off the exit side of the lift pump nothing came out so I took it off and it still wasn’t doing anything. There was absolutely no suction. Took the new pump out and it had plenty of suction. Installed it and now the fuel would pump. Had the tank cleaned after still having problems and found some interesting things inside[img]webkit-fake-url://e4629cff-b33a-40dd-9db6-90b99ab9df86/imagejpeg[/img]. Filter was then changed and tank put back in clean with sending unit clean as well. Truck still didn’t run right and kept dying on me. I spent many hours trying to figure it out and finally took it to a shop. All the shops within 2 hours are really busy so it’s not done yet.

Mark A Brown

If the Weather is cold it could be your GLOW PLUG may need to be replace or Battery isn't holding a charge, Alternator, and Last resort Starter.

johnh

no glow plugs in a dodge cummins!

MAC702

What's a glow plug?

1stGEN'93

Got the truck back from the shop and they did a tune up on it. They said that the fuel shut off solenoid was full of solidified veggie oil fats from the previous owner running it. They cleaned it out and put in a new one since the guts of the one in it were taken out. They had to clean it out multiple times running strong diesels of injector cleaner with a varnish remover in it through to finally get the fss to quit plugging up. It works now though which is nice. Truck runs better from them doing a valve lash, pump tune, and injector cleaner, but still dies sometimes once it is up to operating temperature. It usually doesn’t die in drive when I stop, but once it gets up to operating temp. it does pretty much every time that I back up and stop. Called the mechanic and he said that the pump is full of the gunk and that’s what was causing it. I knew that it had been full of gunk, but he and I were both hoping it had cleared out by now. He told me while he still had the truck that the real right now fix would be a new injection pump. However, in the goal to save money since I’m only 17 I decided I’d take my chances. When it started dying on me still and I called him he said it might clear out if I keep driving it on the highway and doing straight shots of cleaner in the filter in between. What do you guys think? Will it clear out if I take a 2 hour drive on the highway? Thinking maybe running atf in the filter for the hot soak. Thanks again!

1stGEN'93

Went out in the truck today and drove back and forth on a backroad for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Truck didn’t die on me today despite my best efforts by replicating everything that was causing it to die before. I’m thinking idle still might be a little low as it bogs down more than it seems like it should when stopped in gear. Doesn’t die anymore now though. Time to take it home!

1stGEN'93

Drove the truck home and then to school today. It doesn’t die anymore, but sometimes the idle will stumble. Never dies though. I still think idle may be low so I’ll enlist the help of my buddy that is a John Deere mechanic and use his gauge that hooks to the injector lines and set the idle to 750rpm in drive. Low Pressure Piston Lift Pump from Hungry Diesel soon to come! I need to get gauges too so I can monitor trans temp and egts. Too bad they cost an arm and a leg.

texasfirstgen

Good thread glad you got it figured out man