12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

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Old Jan 3, 2005 | 09:07 PM
  #1  
mx261's Avatar
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From: wisconsin
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Guy, I have 3 days off and would like to kil my kdp, move my feul plate and adjust my star wheel.
I have a few ? before proceeding.
1. Can I use rtv on my timing cover? ( I dont have a cummins dealer anywhere close)
2.Are there any links or posts on doing this? ( I have the kdp thing memorized lol)
3. Are there any good ways to get the that screw with no head out?
4. I just remembered about the seal for the kdp, can reuse it?

Thanks for your help.
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Old Jan 3, 2005 | 11:21 PM
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From: u.p. michigan
i use a small chissel and hammer to get the screw out,just put the chissel off center and at an angle and tap with hammer walking the screw around....cummins uses rtv silicone on the cover, if i remember rite it is grey dont remember the part number...if you are carefull not to damage seal you might be lucky enough to reuse it..
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Old Jan 3, 2005 | 11:27 PM
  #3  
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From: u.p. michigan
www.tstproducts.com has a kit for the kdp...and after you get the screw out go to a hardware store and get a normal hex head bolt...tst also has printable instructions for all the engine tweaking...
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Old Jan 4, 2005 | 12:15 AM
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From: springfield,oh
tst's kit is expensive i used it on my last truck. it comes with permatex grey, a tab,and a crankshaft seal. i found a peice of 1/8in or thinner sheet metal drilled a hole to fit the bolt and grounded it til it fit.
1) remove coolant and and washer fluid bottles
2)take belt off pulleys using a 3/8 ratchet on the tensioner
3)unbolt fan shroud
4)unbolt fan motor
5)pull fan and fan should out together i always undo one end of the radiator hose above it so its easier to take out
6)check sensor above the balancer wheel with shims you will need to put it back on where it was
7)remove sensor
8)mark a line on the balancer and the engine so you can put it back in the position
9)remove four bolts holding balancer try not to rotate the engine while doing this
10)remove balancer
11)remove all bolts in timing gear cover the bolts are all different lengths i use a peice of cardboard draw the shape of the cover on it and put the bolts through the cardboard
12)remove bolt beside kdp
13)put bolt through tab and over kdp
14)now go in reverse order to put things back together

i reused my old gasket on my truck i have currently just take it off nice and easy and dont tear it. i used permatex on my last one it gets messy when your trying to holt it up and get the bolts started

if i forgot something jump in guys
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Old Jan 4, 2005 | 12:17 AM
  #5  
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From: springfield,oh
oh yeah remove oil fill tube
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Old Jan 4, 2005 | 12:25 AM
  #6  
mx261's Avatar
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From: wisconsin
thanks, thats a very good description. The fuel plate and starwheel mods are the more techy ones i think.
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Old Jan 4, 2005 | 07:27 AM
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From: Chesterfield, VA
Mark the balancer in relation to the crankshaft so it goes back on the same way. Re-tourqe and loc-tite all of the GEAR CASE bolts if you can get to them. I got to two or three.(the bolts like the one that holds the tab). Fan bolt is L.H. thread. I used an impact chisel to loosen mine.
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Old Jan 4, 2005 | 10:18 AM
  #8  
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From: Montana
Boy halerazor, you make it more complicated than I ever have. I've done lots of tabs and have never removed the shroud, radiator hose, washer and coolant bottles.

I use a counter-clockwise turning drill bit to remove the tamper-proof screw. It always catches and turns the screw right out. You can find these bits by the eze-outs in most hardware stores.
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Old Jan 4, 2005 | 10:24 AM
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From: springfield,oh
i never even tried to remove the fan it would make it alot easier if you can remove it. theres nothing to the fuel plate, i used an impact driver to remove the screw $25 at sears. after you do get to the fuel plate replace all 6 of those bolts with m6x1.0 allen heads. i can remove my fuel plate with a ball driver and don't have to remove the intake horn or any fuel lines
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Old Jan 4, 2005 | 10:28 AM
  #10  
winkle's Avatar
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From: Escondido, Calif
I used a T-20 torx bit and an impacked(?) driver to get the tamper proof screw out of the AFC housing, or just take a screw driver and hammer and pound a slot on the top of the screw and then use an impacked driver.
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Old Jan 4, 2005 | 11:39 PM
  #11  
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From: springfield,oh
infidel, i've never tried it any other way thats the directions tst sends with there kits. it gives you alot of room to work with. i can do one in about an hour
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 07:08 PM
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From: Vancouver, BC, CANADA
I found that not removing the fan shroud better. Once you remove the oil fill tube the fan comes right out the top.
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