DEVASTATION!!! - New Head Required
 

Well guys, about 1 year ago, I put BD compound turbos on my truck, about three months ago, I started having cooling problems. Temps getting up to 210 degrees. Turns out radiation was clogged, very little flow and water pump was shot. I replaced water pump, radiator cap and had radiator professionally flushed and cleaned. Improved issue, but temps still climbed from time to time. Also noticed, loosing 1-2 gallons in a week, but no apparent leaks. Turns out, coolant was coming out overflow...you guessed it, blown head gasket!
I suspect my lack or proactive steps prior to installing compound turbos was the culprit. I didn't re-torque the head bolts and I wish I would have got studs. Also, got call from machine shop today, he was magnafluxing the head, and found cracks between every exhaust ports and injectors! He suspects the overtemp caused this. I have cleaned the engine deck, it looks solid. I asked him if he felt I would have issues with block, he said that typically the block does not crack, usually the head goes first.
Couple of questions here:
(1) Any recommendations for a good company to go with to get good head?
(2) Any good way to check block head desk for cracks or surface warpage, without removing from truck?
(3) Considering damage to head, should I remove engine and get it magnafluxed as well?
Prior to this and even before moving the head, engine was running great! Really appreciate you guys inputs and taking time to read this depressing story!

Well, I think I did it right, hear is what I purchased. Went to CPP, talked to the owner, great guy. Honest, very straight forward, didn't try to talk me in to anything. I am a perfectionist, never go cheap, is my motto...in the end you get what you pay for.


HAMILTON HIGH SWIRL HEAD 12V (89-98 CUMMINS), including O-rings, stage 1 valves. Great head, suppose to have 40% greater airflow and lower EGT than stock OEM head.

Sounds good, I wouldn't freak out about the deck cracking at all, and a good precision straightedge and a feeler gauge will let you very precisely check for any deck warp, of which I would be surprised if you find much at all.

Thanks for info, patdaly, makes a lot of sense. Yeah, agree. Will do that. Cleaned up the deck, looks good. Calling machine shop today to get old head, got to get the sensors an coolant plugs out of it and pick up my milled rocker arm pedestals.

Got my Hamilton "High Swirl" 12v head in yesterday afternoon, looks great. Will probably put up some pics of head before and after installation. I have talked to Hamilton cams via email several times, very responsive in returning my emails, good customer service. Packaging of head for shipping was excellent, no damage. So far, impressed with CPP's customer service so far, as well. I ordered head last Wednesday from CPP, and got it the following Monday. My Cummings head gasket, which I ordered from CPP, comes in today.
Also, I ordered the ARP2000 head studs, but I am having second thoughts on this. I am seriously thinking about returning these and getting the ARP Custom Age 625+ head studs instead. I know the ARP2000's are very good, but really concerned with potential head studs stretching over time and blowing another head gasket. Since I installed the BD compound turbos, my truck will build boost like a frigging mad Tasmanian Devil! I can peg my 60 psi boost gauge in about 3-5 secs. Truck is my daily driver, do not race, but sometimes passing someone, easy to get caught up in the Cummin's power and not pay attention to boost gauge?
Anyone else had any experience with the ARP 2000 or Custom Age 625+ head studs? Would like to know about your experience with these.

By the way, I found one parts website, "Rudy's Performance Parts", who was able to get the ARP Custom Age 625+ head studs. He researched and found one of his warehouses that had one set, hooked me up, got them ordered...shipping today. They are expensive, paid $1,198.40, but I think worth the additional assurance! Check these guys out, https://www.rudysdiesel.com/, impressed with their service

Following along here.
I will be interested into how happy you are with the head and studs after install.
Those are some expensive studs.

What major benefits are gained from upgrading from the ARP 2000 studs?
Less prone to stretching?

Good questions, some of the main advantage points are ARP2000s have a tensile strength of 220psi, hardness of 44-46 vs ARP625s tensile strength/hardness of 260-280psi/56-57. Also, the ARP2000s can corrode while the ARP625s will not, because they are made of stainless alloy. Check this are article, great info on studs, and side-by-side comparison of ARP2000s vs ARP625s, Holding The Pressurel, How to Chose The Right Studs.

Got everything back together and started the truck last night, running good. Now the coolant temp is much better, temp does its normal cycle between 150-175, like it use to. Only issues, had to tighten up a couple of the fuel injector retire line screws and one heater hose clamp, all good now. I will post some pics of the head and final assembly today. Running the truck for a couple of days with radiator flush, to make sure block/radiator are good and clean, put coolant in on Thursday.

Personally I love it when the temp gauge cycles up and down as the thermostat opens and closes.

Still happy with that head?