Cold Air Intake
If you want to make it yourself, a BHAF is a good cheap option that basically bolts on. *****'s Whistler is more involved, but very well respected as a good DIY option. If you want off the shelf you can't really go wrong with an AFE stage 2.
Is this the first mod to the truck?
Is this the first mod to the truck?
This is what I did to mine> http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/ge...ck-airbox.html
cold air intake
If you want to make it yourself, a BHAF is a good cheap option that basically bolts on. *****'s Whistler is more involved, but very well respected as a good DIY option. If you want off the shelf you can't really go wrong with an AFE stage 2.
Is this the first mod to the truck?
Is this the first mod to the truck?
I'm about to do something similar to what infidel did.
Actually the stock airbox is a good unit imo. Not a huge fan of oiled filters and can't justify paying $375 for a "cold air intake" that's basically the same thing as stock with a cone filter instead of a flat one. I would buy one but after reading some posts, it seems as though the filter minder still gets pulled down with aftermarket intakes. BHAF is also a good idea because you increase the surface area of the filter; hence, less restriction. Downside is that you're sucking in hot air from the engine bay, even if you do make the heat shield.
Actually the stock airbox is a good unit imo. Not a huge fan of oiled filters and can't justify paying $375 for a "cold air intake" that's basically the same thing as stock with a cone filter instead of a flat one. I would buy one but after reading some posts, it seems as though the filter minder still gets pulled down with aftermarket intakes. BHAF is also a good idea because you increase the surface area of the filter; hence, less restriction. Downside is that you're sucking in hot air from the engine bay, even if you do make the heat shield.
Edit: Reread that, now the exhaust thing makes sense.
@Infidel: Does your filter minder still pull down after you installed the hose going to the cowl? After a single full throttle pass mine shows a pull of around 16-18 on the scale.
@Infidel: Does your filter minder still pull down after you installed the hose going to the cowl? After a single full throttle pass mine shows a pull of around 16-18 on the scale.
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I will say only one thing about the stock system. I don't like the surface area seal of the filter to the cover. Mine leaked. I like having the only connection to the filter being a clamped hose with not "gasket" to compromise the seal.
I see a lot of stock boxes that have a dust trail past the gasket when the box is popped open.
Then again I've seen several BHAFs that had fallen off completely at the clamp for who knows how long. Sort of makes me sick to see.
Both are easy fixes. On the stock box they all should have a bead of silicone grease applied to the outer seal no matter what kind of filter you use including stock.
On a BHAF the problem can be corrected with a collar of ridged pipe inside the air hose that gives the clamp something solid to clamp down on
Sound/noise difference between BHAF and cold-air stock air box?
Hey Bill,
First, thanks for posting this info and how you performed the mod. Knowing you to have a LOT of experience in CTDs and how to make them better I have a question for you (or anyone else). I've been running a Duralite BHAF filter since 2005 and have been pleased with its performance (ability to ingest enough air for modified setups and the sound I get from it). Several folks who've implemented your suggestion for tapping into the cowl for cold air for the OEM air box mention the increased turbo sound inside the cab as a result. My question is this. Of those who've implemented the cold air connection to the OEM box, has anyone previously or afterward setup their truck to use a standalone BHAF and what, if any, difference was there in the sound/noise level heard inside the cab?
I like the sound I get from the BHAF but I'm not so sure I'd like a significant increase in sound especially for the passenger side where my wife would be the most frequent person sitting there. If anyone can let me know on this I would appreciate it as I'm very close to either replacing the BHAF filter or re-installing my OEM box and modifying it to get the additional cold air.
First, thanks for posting this info and how you performed the mod. Knowing you to have a LOT of experience in CTDs and how to make them better I have a question for you (or anyone else). I've been running a Duralite BHAF filter since 2005 and have been pleased with its performance (ability to ingest enough air for modified setups and the sound I get from it). Several folks who've implemented your suggestion for tapping into the cowl for cold air for the OEM air box mention the increased turbo sound inside the cab as a result. My question is this. Of those who've implemented the cold air connection to the OEM box, has anyone previously or afterward setup their truck to use a standalone BHAF and what, if any, difference was there in the sound/noise level heard inside the cab?
I like the sound I get from the BHAF but I'm not so sure I'd like a significant increase in sound especially for the passenger side where my wife would be the most frequent person sitting there. If anyone can let me know on this I would appreciate it as I'm very close to either replacing the BHAF filter or re-installing my OEM box and modifying it to get the additional cold air.
This is what I did to mine> http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/ge...ck-airbox.html
No matter which kind of filter you use drilling into the cowl will make it louder in the cab.
You can even change the sound level and direction with the vent position ****.
Recirculate position almost turns the increased sound down completely.
You can even change the sound level and direction with the vent position ****.
Recirculate position almost turns the increased sound down completely.
I have a TAG in both my rigs also, not to decrease the sound but because the designer was using my trucks for testing = free.
Can't say I've found any other benefits besides less turbo noise.
Can't say I've found any other benefits besides less turbo noise.
Performance wise I have only a few findings. With the S300, the turbo will bark more often and easier than without. Cause, probably an increased efficiency of air compression. That is that its making boost a little sooner and easier than the original performance map area and is easily out of balance with the turbine side drive pressure. Without the TAG I have a hard time to make the turbo bark and feels laggy. With it in, It barks between shifts at moderate throttle.
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