Camber Bushing Suggestions?
Camber Bushing Suggestions?
Hey Guys,
History: Recently I have purchased new tires, replaced all 4 ball joints (XRF), new track bar, and rebuilt all tie rods with Luke's Links.
When I got an alignment after all off the above was done, it shows my front tires have positive camber. 0.7 on the left and 1.0 on the right. Any suggestions on what bushings to get to correct this?
Also, any advice on the correct camber angle? Here are some specs I found.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/specs/00_steer_specs.html
Here is a thread with slightly different suggested specs.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=ball+joints
Below I have attached a copy of the alignment print out and a photo of the current drivers side bushing.
Looking for specs to reduce future tire wear. Thanks for your help
History: Recently I have purchased new tires, replaced all 4 ball joints (XRF), new track bar, and rebuilt all tie rods with Luke's Links.
When I got an alignment after all off the above was done, it shows my front tires have positive camber. 0.7 on the left and 1.0 on the right. Any suggestions on what bushings to get to correct this?
Also, any advice on the correct camber angle? Here are some specs I found.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/specs/00_steer_specs.html
Here is a thread with slightly different suggested specs.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=ball+joints
Below I have attached a copy of the alignment print out and a photo of the current drivers side bushing.
Looking for specs to reduce future tire wear. Thanks for your help
It looks like it already has some weird aftermarket bushing in there. Makes me wonder what somebody was trying to correct for. Ideally it would be nice to start out with the OEM 0 degree bushings and see where everything is, then go from there. Otherwise the next best thing would be is if you can read the markings on that one to see what the offsets are for both camber and caster, then do the math to leave caster where it is, and drop the camber down to .1 or .2 degrees positive. If the caster offset got reduced a couple of points, it wouldn't hurt either. I've found usually .2 or .3 degrees caster offset (less positive on the left) is just right to compensate for road crown.
Dont have a picture, but the stock ones have a round top, unlike the hexagon on the aftermarket ones. Stock also has a tab to index it to the slot in the bore, and will be stamped with a 0 deg on the top. Service replacements are available that look the same but are stamped in increments of .25 deg, .5 deg and .75 deg. They are made to modify the camber adjustment only, and don't adjust the caster.
After an hour of delicately
trying to get the camber bushings removed without messing up the new ball joints they are finally out. No clue why the markings are on the bottom so you need to remove them to know what they are.....
The Drivers side is a 3/4 degree bushing
The Passengers side is a 1 degree bushing
If I put 0 degrees back in it will put me back at 0 on my alignment.
My question is if I should shoot for -.1 degree as indicated in the thread link above or just 0. I'm probably just splitting hairs, but not sure if it matters.
Thanks guys.
trying to get the camber bushings removed without messing up the new ball joints they are finally out. No clue why the markings are on the bottom so you need to remove them to know what they are.....The Drivers side is a 3/4 degree bushing
The Passengers side is a 1 degree bushing
If I put 0 degrees back in it will put me back at 0 on my alignment.
My question is if I should shoot for -.1 degree as indicated in the thread link above or just 0. I'm probably just splitting hairs, but not sure if it matters.
Thanks guys.
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