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97' 3500 New to me, What do I do?

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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 05:15 PM
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From: Scottsbluff NE.
97' 3500 New to me, What do I do?

I'm going tomarrow to pick up a 97 3500. It's an automatic 4x4 long bed. It dosen't seem to want to shift from first to second straight out. I have to let off the pedal and then it will go. Is that normal or not? I've never owned an automatic diesel. I've drove 2 other 3500 that are the same way. If that's not right I'm gonna start the building in a new transmission or having that one rebuilt.

I have the guages off my totaled 92 W250- Pyro, tach, boost, and oil temp. So those will go on first off.
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 08:04 AM
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Nope, isn't right. Might be a simple kickdown lever adjustment though, I will let others tell you how to check.
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 04:58 PM
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It rides just fine. Just fine. Only did that cold. I like it alot. Noticed that the oil temp got hot when I got up to 75 in a hurry. Then it cooled back down when I leveled off but my 92 did the same thing. What are some good easy mods that I can start off with. I want a programmer but I aint got that money right now. Maybe cold air intake. 4 or 5 inch turbo back exhaust? What do yall think?
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 05:03 PM
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LOL, welcome to the 12 valve, we don't need no steeenkin programmers, unless you call your wrenches programmers.

Do a quick search here, you will find a few very reasonable or free mods will kill your tranny in short order........
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 07:57 AM
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A programmer will not work in your 12V. As for the mods, there are many of them, you need to read the stickies at the beginning of the forums.

Floyd
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 08:27 AM
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From: Holly Ridge, N.C.
Originally Posted by that_guy
I'm going tomarrow to pick up a 97 3500. It's an automatic 4x4 long bed. It dosen't seem to want to shift from first to second straight out. I have to let off the pedal and then it will go. Is that normal or not? I've never owned an automatic diesel. I've drove 2 other 3500 that are the same way. If that's not right I'm gonna start the building in a new transmission or having that one rebuilt.

I have the guages off my totaled 92 W250- Pyro, tach, boost, and oil temp. So those will go on first off.
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that_guy:

Congratulations on getting your 97' Dodge CTD 12 valve! The members have given you good advice on the issues you posted about with the truck.

I wanted to offer my assistance to you if you need any help on the truck. I am right down the road from you in Holly Ridge and own two (2) Dodge CTD Pickups, a highly modified 1996 and a 2006 Dodge CTD CR. Send me a P.M. and I can give you my phone number. Maybe we can get together, meet and discuss things if you want. We also have a good group of guys that get together regularly for diesel events here locally so hopefully you can join us for those events!

Take care Sir!

---------
John_P
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 09:20 PM
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I would love to come out your way but I just moved to Scottsbluff Nebraska. I got here last night. I bought the truck to be able to make the move. There arent anytunners that will work on this truck? I thought that's what the 2nd gen trucks were most popular for. That and the famed P pump.
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 01:20 AM
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Yes, the 98.5-02 second gens have awesome programmers, but no P-pumps. The 94-98 second gens are blessed with the 12v with a P-pump, but no programmers. If you tweaked your 93, it will be similar mods for your new 97

Anyway, for the first to second up shifts, I'd start by checking the linkage. Apart from that, I doubt I can help!

Cheers and happy new year!
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 02:15 AM
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I think it's second to third. I'll record it one day and put a link to it and maybe yall can get a better idea of what I'm trying to describe. It's like the truck is stuck in gear. the truck will continue to rev and build speed untill about 40 mph at 2300 rpm and then it's like it hits a brick wall and stays there untill it decides to shift. only really happens the first time it shifts durning a drive. From then on it's not to bad. it'll hang in gear but shift.

What can I do to start moding this truck? Can I bump the timing like I did in my 92? I rotated the pump with a ratchet strap. That really woke up that old girl. And waht is this madness I hear about the fuel plates. I know it's the same as the fuel pin in the VE pump but where is it and how do I go about tweeking it?

I was doing good learning on the first gen and then it supermaned into a tree. Now I get to start over and learn a new system. I was really looking foward to putting a programer on here. That's dissappointing.
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 08:57 AM
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From: Holly Ridge, N.C.
Originally Posted by that_guy
I think it's second to third. I'll record it one day and put a link to it and maybe yall can get a better idea of what I'm trying to describe. It's like the truck is stuck in gear. the truck will continue to rev and build speed untill about 40 mph at 2300 rpm and then it's like it hits a brick wall and stays there untill it decides to shift. only really happens the first time it shifts durning a drive. From then on it's not to bad. it'll hang in gear but shift.

What can I do to start moding this truck? Can I bump the timing like I did in my 92? I rotated the pump with a ratchet strap. That really woke up that old girl. And waht is this madness I hear about the fuel plates. I know it's the same as the fuel pin in the VE pump but where is it and how do I go about tweeking it?

I was doing good learning on the first gen and then it supermaned into a tree. Now I get to start over and learn a new system. I was really looking foward to putting a programer on here. That's dissappointing.
----------------------------------------------------------
that_guy:

Sorry to hear you have moved to Nebraska! I would have been glad to help you "tune" your truck.

Here is a link to a company that sells the fuel plates for your truck:

www.tstproducts.com

That fuel plate is located right under the AFC Housing on the back side of your P-pump on the drivers side. There are four bolts that hold the housing on the pump and the fuel plate lies right underneath that AFC housing. I would recommend bumping your timing to about 16 degrees and that should make the truck run better.
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 09:19 AM
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From: Holly Ridge, N.C.
that_guy:

Here is a link for you from our DTR Wiki Page with more info on the P-Pump mods:

http://wiki.dieseltruckresource.com/wiki/Pump_Mod%27s

--------
John_P
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 10:16 AM
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Thanks guys. I like this site. Everyone here is really helpful. Really appriciated.
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 10:58 AM
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From: Holly Ridge, N.C.
Originally Posted by that_guy
Thanks guys. I like this site. Everyone here is really helpful. Really appriciated.
----------------------------------------
You are very welcome Sir! Thanks for your nice comments about the website.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by that_guy

I was doing good learning on the first gen and then it supermaned into a tree. Now I get to start over and learn a new system. I was really looking foward to putting a programer on here. That's dissappointing.
Haha, programmers are way overrated. You can do the same thing with these motors for free with a little reading. You're probably bummed out because you're coming from a 1st gen. You max a 12mm VE and it's fun and wakes the old girl up...a little.

The P-Pump is a whole 'nother animal. You can make massive power with these things with VERY minor mods. Nothing like a VE at all in terms of gains. You'll be pleasantly shocked, I promise. Easiest way to say it is like this...I modded my VE to the tune of around 350-400 rwhp. Those EXACT SAME mods would have gotten me around 650+ rwhp with a P-Pump motor.
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 10:16 AM
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maybe my thinking is too simple but what about a new trans filter and tranny flush? may cure the shift problem. just throwing my $.02 worth out there
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