96 no start
 

My 96 12v won't start, crank is slow like batteries are dead but they where new in July. Seems like only when its cold it's very hard to start. WHY does it do this and HOW can I fix this?

1. dry rotted fuel lines.

2. bad lift pump.

3. bad overflow valve.

4. shut off solenoid, out of adjustment.

5. batteries

6. slipped timing.

7. grid heaters not cycling

any one of these or a combination of any will cause symptoms.

when you try to start, does it "click", for lack of a better word, like the batteries are dead? if so, a started rebuild is on the way. just did mine the day after christmas. is a easy job to do, just some akward positions when trying to work get it in/out.

Do you have a block heater? (Not sure if they are stock in the US or not...). If so try plugging it in for a while, and then see if it starts right up, it should.

Are you using 15W40 motor oil. It's very thick at cold temps, try synthetic oil.

Could be starter contacts, very common; http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm

Are you sure the batteries are fully charged? Possibly faulty alternater not fully recharging batteries.

Check all battery cables and connections, including grounds.

Plug in the block heater, that'll help too.

What if the grid heaters where coming on when they are not needed? wouldn't that cause a large draw on a battery when not neccessary?
is there a relay or some other trigger wire I can unplug

The truck runs fine and starts fine in warm weather but as the temperature has dropped, this is when the problem has started

The trucks are designed to cycle the grids below I think 48 degrees. If you have to unplug the grids in order to start the truck, something is wrong.

I almost guarantee that its the starter contacts.You can get em for like 30 bucks at larry b's starter contacts.

So where would I unplug the grids? Where does it get the signal for the below 48 degrees?
The truck is not used all that often in the winter so before I plan on using/starting the truck I could plug them back in and not let it drain the battery.

they plug in on top of the engine intake. It has a little black boot over the terminals.

carefull, those are hot. if you unplug, wrap it up good so it doesn't go against ground.

OK, is there two of these plugs that have boots and are they bolted to the intake beside the inlet from the cooler? They kinda look like tadpoles?
Because besides a plastic connector that plugs into a brass sender, that is all that I can see on top of the intake.

The easy way to disable the grids:
Follow the heavy cables with the rubber boots at the intake back down to the two relays almost under the battery. Disconnect one small wire from each relay, they just pull off. It will take you less than 10 seconds with no tools.

BEAUTY thanks

What does he mean by "a started rebuild is on the way"? I think there's a typo there, but I need to know what he means.