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After 208K my pedals were getting pretty wobbly, it was getting hard to shift at times and I had to push the pedal all the way, and I mean all the way to the floor to get the clutch switch to engage, so it was time to do something.
Found the bushings, clips, pin and even clutch pedal rubbers at Toliver Chrysler in Corsicana Tx. the cheapest.
Part numbers are as follows.
Plastic bushing inside pedals, 4 req. 4294639
Clip to hold pedal support rod 2 req. 4103262
Pedal support rod 1 req. 52077902
Clip to hold clutch master rod on pedal 1 req. 4294036
And of course, a new pedal pad 1 req. 52009562
Looking back, I wouldn't have ordered the new rod, mine was in perfect shape and is actually beefier and better than the replacement part, so I reused it.
This is a HUGE pain to do by yourself, easy getting apart, 3rd and 4th hands really needed going back together.
After cussing for a couple of hours, I finally cut a short section of 3/4" cold rolled steel 3" long and used it to push thru the brake pedal with bushings and "hang" it on the bracket while I put the pedal support rod in. You can only do this from the passenger side towards the driver, as there is not room to get the shaft out to the left. You need to be a contortionist ( not a old fat guy ) to get everything lined up enough to start the shaft. After you get it thru the brake pedal and get the short starter piece out, you can roll the clutch pedal in from the backside, being careful to make sure the wave washer under the busing doesn't push it out and tear the washer or bushing.
Even though it was a pain, man is it nice to have clutch pedals that feel as good as new and not have to shove the pedal thru the carpeting to get the thing to start!
Just make sure you allocate plenty of time for cussing on this project........
One of the clips fell off the end of the rod and it started backing out. I found an e clip at the junkyard and fixed it. What a pain in the neck. I can't imagine what you went through to take the whole thing apart.
I actually ended up pulling mine apart in the first two years due to bad clips falling off. I built brass bushings and made them greaseable. No more trouble since
Yep, if I ever have to do it again, I am going to pull the whole clutch pedal bracket out and do it on the bench.
I may end up having to do that anyway, seems like it is getting sloppy quicker than I like, nothing too bad yet, but if it continues, I will pull the bracket and bore it out for a retainer.
I may have worn the Aluminum bracket out by running it sloppy for so long.
And to bring this adventure to a close, I did end up having to go back into it. This time it was fix it right at all costs, so I grabbed a new swing arm bracket out of a 96 at the yard, 94-97 are all the same for both Auto and Stick, so it really doesn't matter which one you get. I would assume the 98-02 is the same way, but I don't have any experience to prove it.
First off, this is a royal pain in the tail, I have big hands and arms and I am bloody, oh so bloody right now. I kind of cheated as well, there is a part of the sheet metal ton the dash that goes under the bracket and sandwiches between it and the steering column. To remove the bracket without cutting this would required dash removal, and I was in no mood, so a thin kerf Sawsall blade and a little saw action, and it was gone. I am going to leave it out for now, but if I see anything rattling or squeaking, I will put it back and mig it back together. I really don't see it doing much as thin as it is.
Oh yea, if you do this, and to prevent you from paying the same stupid tax I did, when you get the new bracket wiggled back in there and BEFORE you get all the nuts and bolts tight, make sure you go ahead and hook up your throttle cable so you aren't almost done and then find it lodged behind the stinking bracket........ a solid hour wasted there boys.....
Anyway, about 4 hours start to finish, make it 3 without all the throttle cable drama, and I have rock solid, like new clutch action!
Had my clutch pedal completely let go on the mountain yesterday. Parts stores don’t can’t get this part mopar # 52077902because it’s been discontinued. Can anyone give me the dimensions so I can have one machined?
I completely forgot about this thread but felt the wrath of it. What happened is over time (25 years) the factory grease on my pedal assembly went from slippery to glue and locked up the shaft and bushings on my pedal assembly. My clutch pedal felt funny the beginning of 2021 and I put my head under the dash to take a look around. Instead of rotating in the bushing the shaft had seized to it and work through the thin nylon. As I unknowingly continued to drive it the shaft began cutting into the cast aluminum bracket.
I went to the junkyard and picked up a replacement bracket out of a gas automatic. The cast aluminum bracket is the same for autos and manuals. They used a spacer in the auto trucks. I was lucky because I found a truck that had the dashboard removed in the junkyard. Taking the bracket out of the donor was easy but I wasn’t looking forward to replacing it on my truck. I put it off as long as I could and the clutch pedal moved to the floor as the bracket wore.
I took some time between last Christmas and New Year to replace the bracket. It was especially bad because I foolishly ran wires for stuff I added like lighting, air compressor and other electrical mods through the holes in the bracket. I had to cut and splice all these wires before I could really start. It wasn’t as bad as I thought just tedious work. Then again I do tedious work for a living.
I took the pedal assembly completely apart and cleaned and lubed everything that moved. I used Lucas bearing grease when I put it back together. The clutch returned to it’s factory position and feels normal again.
I would recommend everyone take a look at their bracket and consider removing it to clean and lube the pedal shaft and bushings. These trucks aren’t getting any newer and the factory grease won’t last forever. This seems to be a common problem that is completely preventable. It’s too late for me….save yourself.
10-15-2016, 07:15 PM
) to get everything lined up enough to start the shaft. After you get it thru the brake pedal and get the short starter piece out, you can roll the clutch pedal in from the backside, being careful to make sure the wave washer under the busing doesn't push it out and tear the washer or bushing.
