well i tried to put it into 4-H and no luck.... 4-L nothing... i don't think the problem is the transfer case because when i put it in 4-L i still get the low gearing but no 4wd. any ideas on what the problem might be??? oh and the 4wd light doesn't come on either.... i'm just really lost on this one (as usual) but i'm hoping it is something really simple... i'm in Minnesota and it snowed a little up here.... if it snows any more i'm gonna be in trouble please help

 

The 4wd is actuated using a vaccuum actuater its towards the pass side of the front axle check and make sure all the lines are connected if so if you have access to a vaccuum guage see if the lines are getting the right amount of vaccuum not sure exactly what that # is but someone will chime in here and help out. If the lines look good and you have vaccuum take the four bolts out of the actuator and pull it out see if the fork moves freely back and forth in the housing it may have a bent shaft from mis alignment in the axle housing. if it slides easily by hand have someone operate the 4wd lever while you watch the shift fork to see if it is moving this has to be done with the truck running be careful. The 4wd on these things is a very simple design I doubt you have any kind of major problem. Its just a matter of trouble shooting the problem.

 

thanks alot... i'm gonna check it out today sometime

 

well i took a quick look as the truck was moving in gear, in 4-L and the front drive shaft is turning as it should.... don't know if this means anything or rules anything out but i thought i would throw it out there. thanks again!!

 

Check the vacuum lines like tbarbee1 said. The acuator on your front diff is called a Center Axle Disconnect or CAD for short. the passenger side axle is in two pieces. There's a splined sleeve that slides over both passenger side axles and locks them together in 4WD. If they aren't locked together, the spider gears in the diff just let it freewheel.

 

Get your self a posi-lok kit. You will never have the problem of getting your front axle to engage. I've got it and its the best money I've spent yet.

 

so where does a guy find the posi-lok kit? how much does that run for? and how hard is it to install? thanks!!

 

theres a hard line on your passinger side frame rail that goes under your transmistion and over above the passinger side axel. On each end of this line are 2 vaccume hoses. on the front they run down to your CAD unit that moves around under vaccume to connect your 2 peice passinger side axel when 4x4 is engaged. Up on the other end those 2 run to a vaccume switch int he transfercase. Its a ball auctuated switch I think much like your reverse light switch in a 5/6speed. that switch could be bad as well as vaccume leeks or that your cad unit just isnt used enough and is a bit stuck in place as was the problem on our other truck. Theres also vaccume lines that come from under the hood to that switch on the t-case. do your vents work? and your cruise controll? if they dont work you have a total vaccume loss somewhere.

 

Just replace your vacuum lines if you do not want to buy a posi. There is a seal in your vacuum pump also (i know this because mine is toast and I'm replacing it tomorrow) the easiest way to check if your pump keeps pressurized is go unplug the end of your vacuum line (its only 14" long) have someone start your truck with you holding your finger on the line and when they shut the truck off you should hear air being sucked in because of the vacuum.

 

yes the vents work but the cruise will turn on but not engage which then tells me that i'm getting some vaccuum (enough to switch the vents) but not enough (to engage 4wd or cruise) does this sound about right? is there anywhere i can get a full replacement set of vaccuum lines instead of just trying to chase down the one that needs to be changed at the time..... why not just change them all and get it over with.....

 

check the the ones under the hood. I know the one that comes right off the vaccume pump (under the injection pump, in front of the power steering pump) has a rubber vaccume elbow then a vaccume hose goes into that. those elbows dry rot and crack up fast. They start to let air in. the other truck had this problem adn cruise was erratact as well as 4x4. We put some good quality electrical tape tightly around it and that fixed the problem so it was deffintly that. That hose then eventually goes up to a T under your cowl and from there I guess it splits to some other stuff

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-02...spagenameZWDVW


Thats the cheapest you will find it anywhere. From an online store it ranges from 250-275

 

so i figured out it is the actuator that needs to be replaced.... anywhere else i can get this instead of from the dealer and anyone know how much this might cost.... haven't went back to the dealer yet as they couldn't find it this morning and asked me to come back later... maybe even a part number??? i saw the posi-lok which looks nice but it looks as though you might not want to shift on the fly.... i kinda like that option.... but maybe i will still get it if the vaccuum actuator is too expensive (compared to a permanent fix) sorry if any of that is confusing.... (also have to convince the wife if i want the posi-lok)

 

You CAN shift the posi lock on the fly, in fact, you have to be moving a little to pull it into 4x. That is to line up the splines. I have had mine for a year and NO regrets (except when someone else drives my rig; they get a little confused...) If a person could have instructions made up "pull transfer case into 4x4, then pull posi-lock handle out to engage; push posi-lock lever in, then put transfer case into 2x" life would be better.

I LOVE being able to use 4low to back up trailers w/o the front end engaged.

 

mine wasnt working a little while ago and a vaccuum line was hanging under the transmision, and had got crushed and broke in my bagging of the truck. a simple 2 inch piece of rubber line fixed me right up. could be something that simple with you too cmac.