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1998 12v KDP JB Weld

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Old 12-08-2013, 06:45 PM
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1998 12v KDP JB Weld

Well in 6 months I have replaced the Clutch, Rear End, and welded the 5th gear nut, replaced the entire suspension 2 times due to Advance auto giving me wrong parts..etc ..been on a tow truck 3 times whiles towing...TALK ABOUT A LEMON!!!!.it has 120,000 miles to date..So Im driving down the road about a hundred miles after the 5th gear nut feel off and was Tig welded..<Fingers Crossed>and BING BING the oil light goes off, I pull over look under the hood and sure enough the underside of the hood is covered in oil, After another $400+ tow bill home I get it apart and find a chunk of aluminum sitting under the fan bracket.......I clean everything up real good clean with brake cleaner let dry, mix JB weld and smear away, used 2 coats. seems to be sealed only an VERY light leak . My question for guy Is....
How many of you have done this??
How long does it last?
Anything better than JB weld?
I'm not interested in fixing $$$ the truck anymore at this point ......Any input would be great...Thanks

[img] http://s751.photobucket.com/user/gs1...130540_069.jpg[/image]
[img] http://s751.photobucket.com/user/gs1...131514_446.jpg[/image]
Old 12-08-2013, 08:04 PM
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Common failure called KDP or killer dowel pin. There is easy fix to prevent dowel pin from fallen out into gears, but in your case that fix was never done. Bar the engine around slowly and make sure no damage to gears. The dowel pin most likely came out of the cover. The cover can be replaced but requires pulling the cam shaft out of the engine to remove timing cover housing. Not easy job and requires pulling the radiator and intercooler, lifting the engine several inches to pull cam out. Dowels are tapped into lifters to lift them off the cam lobes and held up with rubber bands. I'm not kidding that is the procedure. I have done many and is not a big deal once you see how it's done. I have two in shop I'm doing right now I'll post some photo's as I get to pulling the cover on the cam gear. There are several video's on you tube also titled KDP repairs.

http://www.tstproducts.com/DowelPina.pdf

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/d...dodge_ram_kdp/
Old 12-09-2013, 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by BigIron70
Common failure called KDP or killer dowel pin. There is easy fix to prevent dowel pin from fallen out into gears, but in your case that fix was never done. Bar the engine around slowly and make sure no damage to gears. The dowel pin most likely came out of the cover. The cover can be replaced but requires pulling the cam shaft out of the engine to remove timing cover housing. Not easy job and requires pulling the radiator and intercooler, lifting the engine several inches to pull cam out. Dowels are tapped into lifters to lift them off the cam lobes and held up with rubber bands. I'm not kidding that is the procedure. I have done many and is not a big deal once you see how it's done. I have two in shop I'm doing right now I'll post some photo's as I get to pulling the cover on the cam gear. There are several video's on you tube also titled KDP repairs.

http://www.tstproducts.com/DowelPina.pdf

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/d...dodge_ram_kdp/
I know how the cover is fixed, not interested in doing ANYMORE$$$ work to this old POS truck that might be worth 5k if I tried ,I put over $7k in repairs in the last 6 months,,,,,
Question is about how long and IF the JB weld or other epoxys will hold up and for how long?......Thanks
Old 12-09-2013, 07:13 AM
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JB weld is probably just about as good as any other epoxy. With a good application it can last a few years anyhow. I had a hole in a crankcase on an old dirtbike of mine right near the crank shaft that I fixed with JB weld and a penny, held for over 10 years.
Old 12-09-2013, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by gorms
JB weld is probably just about as good as any other epoxy. With a good application it can last a few years anyhow. I had a hole in a crankcase on an old dirtbike of mine right near the crank shaft that I fixed with JB weld and a penny, held for over 10 years.
Thanks for the input just trying to get piece of mind when I haul my camper across the US.....I quess it will be "1 well lubed undercarriage " as well hahahah Good one, I think a topping of RTV grey will give me piece of mind as well.....anymore input would be great, Ive read of a few of you doing this to the timing cover instead of a risky/Pricey cover replace........Thanks
Old 12-09-2013, 10:29 AM
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This is how I fixed mine..........after running JB weld for 3 or so years.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...luminum+bridge

BTW, don't sell that truck short on it's value, 12 valves have been rocketing upwards in value. Let's just say you hadn't better offer her up for 5K unless you want someone to snap it up very quickly.
Old 12-09-2013, 10:57 AM
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Only problem with a JB Weld fix that I've seen is that many times the case is cracked up against the block where you can't see or get to it without removing the case.
When it's cracked in the back the crack tends to get bigger and oil can leak from the rear seal. Expanding crack can also crack your JB Weld job.
Might not be a big deal if you're just tooling around town but I personally wouldn't trust a JB job for a long trip.
$149 for a new case here http://www.agkits.com/cummins-5-9l-1...s-3936256.aspx
Old 12-09-2013, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by infidel
Only problem with a JB Weld fix that I've seen is that many times the case is cracked up against the block where you can't see or get to it without removing the case.
When it's cracked in the back the crack tends to get bigger and oil can leak from the rear seal. Expanding crack can also crack your JB Weld job.
Might not be a big deal if you're just tooling around town but I personally wouldn't trust a JB job for a long trip.
$149 for a new case here http://www.agkits.com/cummins-5-9l-1...s-3936256.aspx
Thanks for the Link Might get this done....local shop Maryland Diesel Performance quoted me $1200+parts, so might be worth it, going to drive it a few thousand miles just to see what else can break with my luck...Also going to try RTV grey for behind the cover if I can get it squeezed in there. Thanks again everyone for your input...
Old 12-09-2013, 08:01 PM
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I use this sealer at work all the time works great and never had oil leaker come back when I use it. High temperature vulcanized silicone. Here's the part number if you want to try it, Mopar part # 68082860AA. Believe me this stuff works great. Ten times better then JB weld, just make a patch out of some sheet metal and silicone it into position. There is no pressure in crankcase since it is vented to the atmosphere. Just use some brake clean and clean as much of the oil and grime off the cover where repair will be made. Cut piece of sheet metal that will overlap damaged section. Run a bead off seal around damaged area and then press the metal patch over the damage housing. Let dry over night before starting engine. This will work and may never leak again. Make sure you use only this sealer since others may not be compatible with oil and will not stick to the metal.
Old 12-10-2013, 03:46 PM
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Ive hack-fixed a bunch of aluminum cases and such. Mostly dirtbikes with rock holes in them.
The aluminum brazing rods are really good. And with some grinding you cant even notice the repairs it makes. I doubt you want to remove all the stuff required to use the alumi-weld rods. Thats a pile of work.
I would pull the front cover, clean the crap outta the area with some acetone, brake cleaner or whatever and cut up some fiberglass weave like bondo sells in small packets in auto stores. knead some epoxy into the fabric and apply it like a patch on the inside. Then fill the crack itself with RTV so it doesnt leak under the repair.
If you patch it from the outside with fiberglass and rtv, it probably wont work well.
Old 12-14-2013, 11:11 AM
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If you have the cover off you might consider putting a new dowel pin with a repair kit. The pin helps keep everything in place.

Floyd
Old 02-10-2014, 12:09 AM
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Well after about 5ooo miles the JB weld let loose, lucky I was Local and limped the poor truck home,,,(I do think about cyclists/motorcycles when this much oil hits the road) Now I am stuck buying the kit and letting a local Maryland shop do the work, any idea how much this would cost?
Old 02-10-2014, 01:03 PM
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About $800-$1200
Old 03-03-2014, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by blackimpala
If you have the cover off you might consider putting a new dowel pin with a repair kit. The pin helps keep everything in place.

Floyd
Thanks for the reply, I bought all the parts and KDP with pin kit , hope all works out and Everything stayed on place.....fingers crossed
Old 04-04-2014, 01:49 PM
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marylandperfdiesel.com did a great clean cut job on my truck without making fun of it being there a Ford place, The cheap $150 Chinese cover I got would not work with there KDP kit supplied in kit , unfortunately they had to weld a tab or something to keep kdp in place? But for the price I guess you cant go wrong. Well after that the NV4500 gave up a 1000 miles later, not hard to say this truck is complete POS.


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