9812vram

Another common problem with cold starts is that the fuel rack sticks in the no-fuel position. Today's fuel is dirty and gumms up the rack. When warm, it works great, but cold - it sticks. It's a very small spring that pulls it into the fuel position when the ignition is turned on. I've dealt with that before. I used a tarp strap to pull the solenoid lever back in the fuel position and hold it there after I shut it off. Pain in the butt, but at least it starts. s98047c, when you had that pump rebuilt, that's likely all that was wrong with it....

infidel

Sure you're not talking about a 1st gen injection pump?
I've never encountered the spring you speak of.

justme-

ok, I'll add to this mine is behaving very similarly.
Hard start cold- needs pedal pressure and then skips and white smoke for a minute or 2 then clears up and runs fine. Now, with my other post on the leaking return line in consideration - it was doing this before the leak was noticed (not saying it was not there, just was not bad enough to be noticed).
Here's the weird part- when I plug in the block heater it starts no problem.
I'm going to go through the fuel system soon and probably delete the fuel heater as suggested above too. I also have a fuel solinoid issue- will not pull. Re attached the blue wire and got a replacement relay from Larry still no pull. When I got the truck I had a no start problem when cold that turned out to be a faulty solinoid relay. Would not trip when cold but did when warm. Apparently the previous owner had the issue and the dealers could not resolve it (I bough it used at under 2 years old and lots of evidence of jump starting...)
Gotta check the solinoid but I figured since it was ok when plugged in it has to be heater grid related...
The OP didn't state if he tried it plugged in (warm block), and since rebuilding the IP changes the base line...you guys think the heater grids could be part of it?

infidel

Easy enough to check> http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/trouble...niford_htr.htm

cj360trider

my grid heaters take an awfully lot out of my batteries. i disconnected the relays and havent had a problem with the truck starting save sucking air in the fuel lines occasionally it comes and goes

justme-

They will and do - it is a huge current draw - but with good condition appropriately sized batteries there should be no issue. Those of us up north where it gets cold need them. I just changed the batteries this fall for the second time since I got the truck and probably could have gone another year but it spent a lot of time the past 2 summers sitting so they discharged a lot- and the crank speed was noticeably slower on cold start (especially since it has to crank a lot cold unplugged).
Bearing in mind it's a plow truck too - I really use the batteries.

FWIW I run Interstate I think it's group 34's- their best. Last batteries were group 24 (bigger plates = longer reserve = better recovery from plow drain and grid drain) but the new recommended size has better CCA and reserve.

cj360trider

i was plannin on installing 2 group 31's when mine go down. if 2 group 31's start a DT466 just fine they shud have no problem gettn the 5.9 goin

justme-

Gotta do some checking- Interstate recommends Group 27 (sorry) which is 810CCA (website is wrong- they list 750) and 1000ca. We need termination A style. Weighs 47 lbs, measures 6.81X12.06x8.88.
Gp 21 is T termination (screw terminal- not sure of post location), about 900CCA, 60 lbs, 6.75x13x9.38.
The 27 is smaller than what I had in there physically before in height and length, but larger in width- I had to cut some ribs out of the batt tray and get universal hold downs from the corner store.

More weight means more lead but check the reserve, not the CCA. There is no need for more than 700CCA in warm climates (like KY), but reserve capacity is more useful. Measure the batt compartment too to make sure it will fit and clear.

cj360trider

pretty sure it will. good friend of mine has a 94 ram V10 and he has a group 31 in it