Installing the Pacbrake
Exhaust Brake.
I received the installation kit from Pacbrake and was entirely overwhelmed
by the presentation of the packaging and what was inside of it. Obviously
the people at Pacbrake have worked very hard to put together a great install kit.
The packaging is appealing to the eye and very well constructed so the unit
remains safe in transit. I believe that some of the boxes could have
been omitted, but this shows the great care Pacbrake takes in shipping its
product to the consumer.
As I opened the packages I saw first hand the quality workmanship Pacbrake puts
into their products. This thing looks good just sitting in the box! Very rugged
and their attention to detail is astonishing. Every thing that you need for this
installation is included, along with superbly detailed instruction booklet, including
written pages, diagrams and pictures
And if that were not enough, Pacbrake has also included a terrific VHS video
showing the installation process step by step. It covers the entire process,
and specialized sections for the year specific model of your truck. If you
manage to mess up this install, it certainly wouldn't be due to Pacbrake not
supplying the proper instructions.
Installing the Pacbrake
The first thing I did
was disconnect both negative battery cables before starting. I am certain you
could do most of this project safely without doing that, but why take a chance
of shorting out your system, or deploying an air bag. Safety only takes a little
more time and is worth every second of it
I then removed the stock air filter and box from the compartment, pulling
the intake hose off the turbo. At this point I placed a plastic sandwich bag over
the turbo inlet and held it in place with a rubber band. Again a step that might
not be necessary, but in doing so I guarantee no foreign object can enter the
turbo, protecting it from damage.
Grabbing a can of PB Blaster, I sprayed the exhaust pipe flange bolts to aide
in removal. Using a long extension and an impact wrench, I slid under the
truck and removed the bolts. This could also have been done with a wrench
or socket from up in the engine compartment, if you do not have access to
an air compressor.
Next I removed the rear turbo "V" clamp and took the exhaust
elbow from the truck, this went into my spare parts bin as The
Pacbrake comes mounted on a new elbow and the old one is no
longer needed. This Pacbrake is mounted directly to the exhaust
outlet on the turbo. Pacbrake also makes a remote exhaust brake
which mounts further down the exhaust pipe, beneath the truck.
After marvelling at the construction of the Pacbrake itself, I installed the
cylinder fittings in it using thread sealant and tightened them in position.
Then I applied both ends of the cylinder vacuum hose to these fittings and
secured them with the supplied clamps.
Then I cleaned off the carbon behind the turbo with a scotch pad, and placed
the exhaust elbow with the Pacbrake mounted on it behind the turbo, holding
it loosely in place with the turbo "V" clamp. Next I installed the exhaust
flange bolts and before tightening, I positioned the elbow to allow the most clearance between
the manifold and the Pacbrake. I removed the
transmission dip stick from the tube and using a short piece of wooden dowel,
I bent the tube toward the engine about an inch to allow plenty of clearance
for the brake.
Next step was to install the control solenoid on one of the intake horn bolts,
the ground wire attaches to this bolt as well with a round grommet connector. Using
the torque wrench, I tightened the bolt back to 18 Ft lbs. And while I
had the torque wrench in hand, I tightened the exhaust flange bolts to 25 Ft
lbs and the turbo "V" clamp to 72 in lbs.
Taking the vacuum cylinder hose from the brake and holding it in position over
the control solenoid, I cut the loop to fit the fittings on the solenoid. Connecting
each length of hose to the proper fitting, I then tightened them in place using
the supplied clamps.
Next I attached the solenoid supply line to the solenoid, and attached the
other end to a "tee" that I installed between the brake booster and the vacuum
pump. Doing it in this manner I was able to locate the best place to install
the tee in the vacuum line, allowing me to route the hose cleanly.
Now I took the time to use some of the wire ties to secure the vacuum lines
away from the exhaust manifold and replace the air filter on the truck. I
checked to make sure all the hose clamps were tight and that each of the
hoses were routed to the correct numbered port on the solenoid.
Installing the switch
Moving inside the truck, I
removed the knee panel from below the steering wheel by removing the Phillips
head screws. Locating the proper stud as shown in the instructions, I removed
the nut and placed the throttle switch and arm assembly on the stud. Making
certain the switch arm was behind the throttle lever, replaced and tightened
the nut.
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Adjusting The Switch
Adjusting the placement of
the switch is achieved by loosening the screws that hold it to the mounting arm,
and sliding it up or down in position. Listening to the switch click on and off
by pressing and releasing on the throttle pedal, I adjusted it to "click" as
the throttle returned to the idle point. Then I tightened the screws. (After
the install, I again adjusted this to allow the engine to idle as high as 1000
RPM's for winter warm up, before cutting off the Pacbrake.)
At the base of the steering wheel, I located the ignition power supply
(blue 14 ga wire on my vehicle)and installed the supplied "t-tap" connector
to the wire. The fused black wire from the supplied harness plugs in
here. Following the schematic I connected the proper wires to the dash switch
and the throttle switch.
Pacbrake provides a template for drilling
the hole in the dash for the switch. I mounted it in a place that was a
little more convenient for me, so I did not use their template. If you choose
not to use the template, be certain the wiring for the switch will reach
the point you choose, and make sure you have ample room behind the dash for
the switch. You don't want to drill into anything and damage it.
After mounting the switch I routed the loomed wire through the rubber boot
next to the steering wheel into the engine compartment. This is the same
place I had already used before when running the wires for my gauges. At
this time I used the supplied wire ties to secure all the wiring into
a safe place away from the moving throttle parts and re attached the
knee panel to the dash.
The loomed wire I routed into the engine compartment, connected to
the solenoid using the supplied connector and I used more wire ties to secure
this wire safely under the cowling with the truck wiring harness.
This completed the installation of
the Pacbrake.
(Note: The brake I installed was
designed for the automatic transmission; I upgraded the Torque converter
and transmission before installing the brake. I also installed the heavier
exhaust valve springs as supplied by Pacbrake, required to get the full
benefit of the exhaust brake.The installation of the springs was not a
difficult process, but it does require some specialized tools and knowledge
to keep from damaging the engine. Unless you have a very strong mechanical
background, it would be best to hire a professional for that job.)
Conclusion
On testing the Pacbrake I immediately fell in love with its operation,
I honestly don't know how I ever considered towing without it!
The amount of braking power
is substantial, and it takes away that "runaway" feeling you can get on
a steep grade. If you tow anything, then this is a "Must Have" addition
to your truck. The only thing I could find I had against the Pacbrake was
the fact that I did not get one several years ago! Dollar for Dollar I
believe it to be one of the BEST investments you can make for your truck!
I can not speak highly enough of the quality and workmanship of the
Pacbrake; they are obviously setting standards as leaders in their industry. Form,
fit and finish is superb and the use of high quality stainless steel on the
moving parts, will most certainly guarantee many years of trouble free service.
In fact the only maintenance listed that could be necessary, applies if your vehicle is
exposed to excess moisture, or short running times allowing moisture to
build inside the exhaust system. Spray a little high temperature
silicon spray on the valve shaft and the connecting points for the actuating
cylinder. Tough piece of equipment, I am very impressed with its design.
I chose Pacbrake after many hours of research on the Internet looking for an
exhaust brake, from the moment I contacted them I have not regretted it. The
people at "Pacbrake" have all been very friendly and professional; nothing about
the entire process from first contact to successful installation has been
anything but first rate. I have no doubt their level of customer service,
(should you need any kind of support) will be superb. They supplied me with
a toll free technical service number, but I had absolutely no reason to make
use of it. Everything worked exactly as Pacbrake said it would!
If you have been thinking about an exhaust brake, then you owe it to yourself
to check out the offerings from Pacbrake. With over 18 years of experience
behind them, you won't be sorry you did.
I know I'm not!
On a lighter note
I admit I enjoy the sound it makes
as I use it when braking to a stop light. I heard other people say their
exhaust brake made a "whooshing" sound, this Pacbrake makes a deep throated
rumbling sound, not too much unlike the sound you hear from a big rig when
he uses his exhaust brake, albeit on a smaller level of course. I am amazed
by how much less time I spend on the brake pedal now as well, I have no
idea how much it will work out to in savings on my service brakes, but
obviously they will last a good deal longer with the Pacbrake in use.
I want to thank Ken Parker and all the great people at Pacbrake for
their help in making this Technical Article possible, your patience with
me has been greatly appreciated.
This article was written by Staff Writer: Lary
Ellis
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