OX1

Got my disks on my trailer. Used an electric/hydr actuator with a new prodigy for the controller.
Come to find out the constant positive wire that feeds to the trailer wiring connector is only good for 20 amps. The pump needs 37 amps start and 25ish to run. I don't want to have 2 connectors, but taking a look yesterday, the factory trailer wiring is pretty thin (maybe 18 guage). So I guess I am going to try and mod the factory connector to get at least 12 guage from a battery source to the connector. Couple pics of my disks and a tray I made for the back up battery and hydr/elec actuator.

RustyJC

1. I would have thought that the brake output from the controller was only a signal or control output to the actuator and that it would have drawn its primary actuator power from the trailer battery whose charge is maintained by the truck. Certainly the hydraulic pump actuators that are driven by an electric motor can't expect to draw their primary power from a brake controller.

2. Have you tried the Prodigy yet? I didn't think they were compatible with electric/hydraulic brakes since they send a low output pulse periodically through the brake output line to determine that the trailer is connected. This pulse is not powerful enough to engage the pure electric trailer brakes, but some electric/hydraulic actuators took this pulse as a braking signal, so you had the actuator working just about all of the time.

Rusty

OX1

There are seperate power and controller wires for the pump. One is for main power, the other is for the brake controller. The factory connector provides both a contoller output and contant 12V ouput (that I assume charges the normal small back up battery for pure electric brakes). I used a fullsize battery for my backup (since I had it and it was free). I never thought of using the main hydr pump power right off that backup battery, but why not. It will still be charged back up when not in use and should provide 25 amps for as long as I need the braking.

As for the controller. The company redesigned their electronics specifically around the new prodigy so it ignores the "tickle" it sends out for the electric brake solenoids. I used it for 150 miles before the fuse blew under the hood that supplies that 20 amp line to the factory connector.

RustyJC

Good to hear that one of the electric/hydraulic suppliers has taken care of the Prodigy problem.

I would highly suggest powering the actuator off the trailer battery. That minimizes the high amperage wiring you'll need to install, and the normal truck +12VDC lead should take care of the battery charge function between trailer brake applications. Also, in case of breakaway and actuation of the breakaway switch, the power source stays with the trailer.

Rusty