barngal6

1) I disconnected my fuel solenoid lever when taking out my AFC cover
will this affect my adjustments to torque plate and AFC sping?
if so, can I just remove the new fuel plate, hook up the fuel solenoid lever and put the new plate back in?

I planned on adjusting the star wheel after everything (cover, fuel solenoid lever) were back together

2) Can I start my engine with the AFC cover off?
With the engine off, can I make adjustments to the plate or starwheel, then restart to check for smoke?

3) Will the smoke be the same when I rev the engine in neutral as when I'm driving?

just trying to speed this process of making the adjustments, not sure how easy I can make it...thanks

Clucker

1, why,and no
2, yes, and yes but I wouldnt
3, no, and that is why I wouldnt do adjustments with the engine running, that and because of splashing oil

IMHO there is no way to make it easier..... other than doing it a hundred times so it feels easy....

barngal6

judt seemed easy for me to disconnect the solenioid plunger, I felt like it was super easy to remove the AFC cover that way

I'll puat it all back together and play with it,
thanks for the input!

Clucker

usualy I only take the arm off when doing the gov springs I have dropped the key before and its a pita to find.......

Tate

Take the real long bolt out that holds the solenoid bracket to the pump. Then when you want to make adjustments, just take all the AFC screws out (two of which hold the solenoid). Solenoid will pop up and you can swing it to the rear for easier access.

Clucker

I have always been reluctant to do this because I have had the afc bolts back out, granted it was on an F600roughridingpostruck, but when the afc bolt holes are gone..... no thanks....

barngal6

So far...sounds my results are the same as other people I've read with the #11 plate...I'm trying to set up for towing, so maybe this will be as good as it gets...but I'd still like to see more in the low end...

Put in the TST medium spring, not the lightest one. The pedal does feel much more responsive--or firm? (not sure proper lingo there) I like it

I'm pretty sure I got the diaphram just touching per the instructions,
and per TST instructions the star wheel is totally away from the engine
(clockwise when looking straignt on onto diaphragm side of afc cover)

I don't feel a huge improvement in low end, but it really jumps going into 4th gear. I have a black puff of smoke when I really get on it, but just for a second--one puff then its gone. My egts ran just like normal, 300 at idle, up to about 900 max, drop quickly to 600 cruising.

Initally I was showing more boost that usual, running about 5 no load, going up to 10 with moderate acceleration, but that only happened ONCE
After that my gauge stopped working and the guage just read 0

I'm going to look for a leak and check the gauge line. I tighted up all the clamps including air filter before the drive, but I'll check again. I'm guessing its at the sensor in the manifold (per Infidel's recommendation) or just the gauge quit, but its a new isspro, so not as likely.

If I find a leak, can I still turn the starwheel, or should I just drive it first?
I'm leaning towards just turning the starwheel while I?m under the hood..

12valvesmoke

did you still have the same amount of power after your gauge stopped working? cuz if you have a boost leak you would have had a little smoke and no power and high egt's. might just be the connections at the gauge.

barngal6

The boost line disconnected at the manifold, fixed that, now gauge working

Then I forgot to tighten the intercooler boot to the horn, made a big noise on that test drive, fixed that

Still boost hits 20 for a second maybe less...
Do you ever get sustained boost?
Sometimes it goes up to 10 then drops right away, like 0-3

I must have a leak somewhere, yes?

Tate

Check all your clamps on the boots. Mine was the same way when I forgot to tighten the clamp. Interesting side note, stock boots will hold maybe 3 or 4 psi with no clamp, BD's will hold more than 10.

barngal6

Yes, when I forgot to tighten the top boot after taking the air horn off,
I got down the road a ways until I popped it off. It only came off when I jumped on the pedal, trying to get my boost up. I heard a huge POP and nothing else. was running ok so turned around and went back home, found i hadn't tightened the clamp. just another indicator that my truck is running pretty low boost..