redram

The EGT gauge(and boost) I ordered should be here anytime. I'm a bit leery of drilling a hole pre-turbo. Is the probe installation in the elbow post-turbo still somewhat accurate? I remember reading somewhere that it's not as accurate and the reading is lower than actual. Is the lower reading constant, in other words will it always read the same precentage lower than a pre-turbo installation?
I'm also thinking of a fuel pressure gauge. Exactly where/how do these get their reading? How difficult to install?

Truck is an '02 ETH. Can't get the "signature" to work on the profile page.

chuck3

I just moved mine from post to pre turbo, got tired of trying to guess how much to add to come up with the actual temp.<br> Do yourself a favor and put it in pre-turbo and leave the guesswork for someone else. Plus you will like it there better it moves up and down much faster.

chuck3

Redram the fuel pressure is taken from a schrader valve located on the backside of the injection pump, or pre-filter is located backside of fuel filter cannister allso schrader valve.<br> It is very easy install. <br> I think they have the instructions listed in the tech facts at the top of forum.

kevinn

I am also in the market for guages and I spoke with an installer here in Utah. They suggested the EGT sensor be placed post turbo becuase there have been problems with the manifold cracking. Has anyone else heard of this?

PapaSmurf

Hello<br> I have ours pre turbo. I have been told by and thinking about it ,it made sense that pre turbo will give the most accurate temp. I agree with the above post and don't want to guess on the melt down of my &quot;little engine&quot; ;D ;D.<br> I to was VERY nervious about drilling into the exhaust. Here is how i did it. I bought the tap required for the probe install and then bought a new drill the size the tap recommended. I center punched the center of the rear hump in the exhaust manifold at about a 1 1/4 1 -1/2 from the turbo flange. I then coated the drill bit with wheel bearing grease and started drilling. I wanted to see if the grease really did catch all the drill metal, It did. I used slow speed and light preassure just enough to keep the bit producing progress. I stopped when I thought the grease looked full and cleaned it off and recoated it and kept going. Cast iron drills very easy just keep the drill straight and TAKE YOUR TIME.<br><br>The taping in pretty straight forward as well. I judged the thickness of where I drilled and made a mark on the fitting as far as I wanted to go. I greased the tap up before I started making threads. Once again I stopped when I seen numerious chipps in the grease. I did not want any chips going through the turbo, some folks may not go through all that trouble and I say good on them. On the ones I do I take my sweet time and I do not drink any Coors lites till I am done ;D<br> The reason I said earlier to judge the thickness of the manifold is that you do not want to go to far with the tap. The tap I used was a 1/4 NPT and they are tapered, as in the further you screw it in the tighter it gets. I ran the tap down close to my judged thickness and then screwed in a pipe plug from the hardware store ( I didn't want to mess up the threads on the probe fitting) overkill yes but it worked for me. I checked how far the plug screwed in often, you do not get a second chance here. I also changed the grease on the tap when I could see chips gathering. Once I was happy with how far the fitting screwed in coated the probe adoptor fitting with some anti-sieze compound and threaded it in.<br>Job done and no problem. <br><br>I hope I helped you out with the above post. I do not know your skill level and I hope I did not insault you. If I did I hope you get over it ;D Just kidding.<br><br>I am on the east coast of N.C. If it ain't to far away I 'll come help you put it in. Next week I will be up in Glen Burrie Maryland, send me a PM if you want.<br><br>Good luck and hope to meet ya sometime.<br>See Ya<br>Chris

PapaSmurf

As far as the fuel preasure. I bought the banjo bolts and seals from Geno's as well as a Westtach gauge/sending unit. I installed it on my 01.5 at the injection pump inlet. I used a 18inch grease gun hose with steel ends, I have been told the ones with brass ends tend to leak. I mounted the sending unit with a hose clamp to a inch wide strap of alum. which I drilled a 3/8 hole and used a stud on the master cylinder to mount it out of the way.<br><br> I recommend that you get the fuel PSI gauge for your truck so you can keep an eye on things. This is my thoughts on the fuel PSI thing. The injection pump needs the fuel supplied to it for more important things than to just keep the engine running. The fuel running through it MUST also CLEAN, COOL and LUBE the injection pump.<br><br>Good luck and enjoy your new truck. 8)<br>See Ya<br>Chris<br>

Push Rod

[quote author=Straight 6 link=board=7;threadid=8118;start=0#78234 date=1039493510]<br>I am also in the market for guages and I spoke with an installer here in Utah. They suggested the EGT sensor be placed post turbo becuase there have been problems with the manifold cracking. Has anyone else heard of this?<br>[/quote]<br><br>The manifolds on the 24 valve engines (and occasionally a 12) do crack, but nowhere near where you'd drill for a thermocouple.<br><br>The pre-turbo install is the only way you can be assured of accurate EGT readings, as the post-turbo reading can vary by 100 - 400F, depending on boost levels.<br><br>Rod

NWDave

The only thing to add to Papa Smurf's install method. While drilling and tapping, we keep a vacuum nozzle close by to suck up the metal pieces. I found a small magnet that slips through the drilled hole to pick up any small pieces and fabbed up an adapter to my shop vac that slips through the drilled hole for the last cleanup. Works great. No complaints. Most important thing is to get everything together and just take your time. Piece of cake. <br><br>~Dave

HAYHAULER

I INSTALLED MY FUEL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT ON THE LINE COMING OUT OF THE FILTER HOUSING WITH A BANJO BOLT FROM GENO'S. ON ANY OF THE INSTALLATIONS, THE BEST THING IS TO TAKE YOUR TIME - I INSTALLED A PRYO(PRE TURBO), A BOOST GUAGE, AND A FUEL PRESSURE GUAGE IN ABOUT 6 HOURS - THE DRILLING AND TAPPING ON THE PYRO IS EASY BUT YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE YOU DON'T LET THE CHIPS GET IN THE TURBO - I USED A MAGNET TO HOLD AGAINST THE DRILL AND TAP WHILE WORKING - THIS MADE THE CHIPS STAY ON THE TOOL AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE - THEN I FISHED AS FAR IN AS I COULD GO FOR ABOUT 20 MIN UNTIL I CAUGHT NO MORE CHIPS. IT WORKS

doug

[quote author=redram link=board=7;threadid=8118;start=0#78212 date=1039491798]<br>The EGT gauge(and boost) I ordered should be here anytime. I'm a bit leery of drilling a hole pre-turbo. Is the probe installation in the elbow post-turbo still somewhat accurate? I remember reading somewhere that it's not as accurate and the reading is lower than actual. Is the lower reading constant, in other words will it always read the same precentage lower than a pre-turbo installation?<br>I'm also thinking of a fuel pressure gauge. Exactly where/how do these get their reading? How difficult to install?<br><br>Truck is an '02 ETH. Can't get the &quot;signature&quot; to work on the profile page.<br><br>[/quote]<br><br>If you will never run boost pressures above 28 lbs or so and you stick with stock equipment, then post turbo will work, as Cummins has done a pile of work correlating post versus pre under those conditions. <br><br>Once you go outside of Cummins expected operating conditions, their pre-post correlation work does not apply and you need to measure ETG pre-turbo. the bottom line is that you need to protect your pistons from getting too big ;D. especially if you run the stock turbo outside its efficiency map (above 32 psi or so) and measure post-turbo you are really throwing the dice.