hipsi

all i did was cowl the hood... it fit fine but it was right up against the underside of the hood.. as for the transmission i used a TH400 ---> Atlas with an adaptor from Phoenix Adaptors.. umm custom d44's front and rear

i used a front mount intercooler.. i see you used a TMIC

TDIwyse

Nice! Can't wait to see your pictures.

TDIwyse

Someone private messaged me with some general type questions and thought I would add my response to the public thread.


Hello

As these are general questions I would like to keep them going in the thread so I won't have to re-type them for other people. I will copy this reply over to the thread.

My motor mounts are just two 1/4" thick L brackets welded together in such a way that they extend from the engine out (the first L) then up and over (the second L) to the original frame mounts (had to trim the tips off the originals to clear the engine during placement). I originally used rubber in between with screws going through two points on the side of the rubber. This offerred verticle vibration isolation but no side to side or front back isolation. Now I have the older universal type Dodge V8 vibration mounts (there's a link in the thread towards the end) in between the motor mount and the frame mount which help a lot with the vibration. I'm also using a single L bracket on each rear engine mount to extend out to the frame rails with a rubber foot to give additional verticle support (the rubber foot is just sitting on the frame and could slide side to side, but adds a lot of support verticly).

The injection pump does have a low idle set screw and could easily be adjusted up. I just use my foot to adjust the idle level. With the new mounts the vibration isn't bad at all.

Do you mean the intake gride heater or the vehicle heater which warms the cabin? The vehicle still has the heater core and there are provisions on the engine for two lines to go to a heater core just like on a regular automotive engine. So I just found out what diameter line the heater core needed and pulled the plugs from the engine and hooked it up.

I'm using the same ignition setup as the original engine had. The same lines trigger the starter and supply it with power. The only additional connection is the fuel solenoid cutoff switch.

Using the same fuel lines as the original jeep had. It had a supply and return line routed up to the engine compartment. The 4.2L inline six did not have a fuel pump in the fuel tank. This is a good thing in my opinion. I replaced the steel tank with a plastic one to reduce condensation issues and am re-using the original sending unit (minus the mesh screen on the pickup tube). I'm using an electric lift pump up in the engine compartment with a small see through coarse mesh filter pre lift pump then a stanadyne fuel manager with a heated filter head and 5um absolute H20 seperating filter and then the OEM fuel filter/H2O seperator.

Good luck on your project.

TDIwyse

I'm having trouble with oil pressure sending units. My third sending unit (first one was from the old gas engine and lasted ~200 mls, the second one was a new aftermarket part for a jeep which lasted ~2000 mls, this last one was a replacement for the first and is starting to go after ~3000 mls) is starting to fail.

The engine has over 5000 mls now and I've gone through 3 sending units. The problem is the engine when cold has really large oil pressure (rails my dash meter which is over 90 psi, the owners manual says the engine can hit ~138 psi on a cold engine). Think this pressure is killing the sending units.

From what I've gathered my 04 Cummins in the Ram uses a pressure switch and not a real pressure sending unit. Is this correct? What about the older 12V and 24V engines?

Anyone have suggestions on what to use for this situation? Any part numbers?

apwatson50

The older 12valves do use an electric sender. If you look in the tech faq's in 1st gen part numbers I believe it may be in there. What I don't know is what the operating resistance of the sender is and if it would match what your gauge is. Make sense?

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1

Oil Psi Sender
Cummins Part# 3923200

Another suggestion, forget the POS stock gauges, and go MECHANICAL!!!

TDIwyse

Thanks for the part number. I can't seem to find the maximum oil pressure spec for the 12V engines. Does anyone have any numbers on what they have seen for a cold engine's maximum oil pressure?

Nate Frame

about your conversion, does the engine have glow plugs, or does the intake grid heater take their place. You say you are having high pressure spikes that seem to be killing your senders, have you thought about a autometer gauge with something like 0-150 psi oil pressure sender.

Do you know much about this new QSB 3.3L Turbo with common rail. I think the added power would be great. And having reduced emmissions would be good. Does anyone out there know about the computer controls the engine comes with, I have been doing a little research and it sounds like you can basically configure the engine using a computer. Can anyone tell me about this new version of the engine?

thanks all...

TDIwyse

No glow plugs. The intake grid heater is the cold start device just like in the Ram Cummins applications. Come to think of it, do any of the Cummins engines use glow plugs? Someone more knowledgeable than I may know for certain.

I may have to go to a mechanical gauge or something like the autometer you suggested. It is becoming annoying.

From what I've read the common rail version of this engine has the same internal setup (valves, pistons, etc.), is a tier III emission compliant engine, can make 305 ft-lbs of torque out of the box, is intercooled, weighs a bit more, is computer controlled, and will cost more. If I recall correctly the common rail max pressure is ~16,000 psi in these applications.

I'm pretty close to these power/torque levels with the tweaking I've done. I like simple and it's hard to beat a totally mechanical setup in that regards. Also use high percentages of biodiesel and from what I've gathered rotary injection pumps are more compatible with this fuel than a common rail would be. However with this engine limiting the rail pressure to only 16,000 psi the issues of polymerization of fuel may not be as big an issue.

TDIwyse

Here's a good artlice on the B3.3T and the future common rail version
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...2/ai_n16118697

Nate Frame

thanks for all good info. My Jeep that would be getting the transplant is a 1999. And in my humble opinion emissions are some what of an important issue. I live in michigan and we have no testing what so ever, that could change at a moments notice. That is the only reason I would want to go with the electronic controlled one.

I would like to get some more pros and cons from you, as you have one of these engines.

TDIwyse

I'm not sure what else you want to know. Anything in particular?

Nate Frame

mostly I would like to know the specifics of the electrical system. Do you hook up the wires to the alternator just the same as if it was the inline 6 in there. What about the fuel cut off soleonid? Any pictures you have would be great.

Is the jeep faster now than it was with the gasser in there? I saw your milage number, absoulty amazing. 30mpg in a jeep, with decent performance. I have a 4 banger in my jeep and I really wanted some added performance, I thought about a turbo and supercharger, all are very expensive. I thought about a 302 or 350 swap, but I would almost be replacing everything, and still might only get 15 mpg or even worse. I looked all around for a usable diesel engine, it seems like the best way to do. And you will have something one of a kind and very unique.

TDIwyse

The alternator hook up was slightly different. It had a third terminal for use for a tach signal. This is talked about earlier in this thread. I can't recall if the connector with the three pigtails came with the engine or if I bought it seperate from the Cummins dealer. The connector plugs into the alternator and it was just a matter of cutting and splicing the other lines into the wires from the old alternator. I don't know if the electrical system of the fuel injected gas engines would be significantly different from the carb motor.

The fuel cut off solenoid is wired to an accessory signal (when the key is on there's 12V going to the solenoid connection which opens the fuel flow).

The jeep was about the same quickness as the 4.2 carb motor before I modified the B3.3T. After mods it's much quicker. I rotated the tires a few days ago and weighed a wheel/tire combination. 68 lbs each. Those steel rims and the mud terrain tires are very heavy. I'm going to be replacing these with pro comp A/T tires and aluminum rims in the near future and this will save ~15 lbs per wheel/tire combo. This should significantly improve the quickness (and the lower rolling resistance should help fuel milage a bit as well).

I don't know if it's the best way to go or not. Depends on what you're looking for I guess. I've been very happy with it.

Nate Frame

I think the work you did is absoultly great. For about a year now I have been looking far and wide for the best engine to do a transplant into my jeep. I had seen the B3.3 once before and thought wow, a nice sized engine that dosent weight to much. Then over on the Turbo diesel register boards I herd a story of a guy who bought one only to find out it dident have the same bolt pattern as the other B series engines. He was bummed. From then one I just crossed this one off my list.

I am intrested about your front suspension. Have you had to put in stiffer spring? I think I remember reading the engine weight was ~580 pounds. I have seen things in 4wd Hardware for lift kits saying if you have a V8 or a front mount winch to order these other springs becase they are stiffer and will keep your jeep level. Did you have to do anything like that?

What is it like driving the diesel? I assume the engine does not bog down, with my 4 banger you have to be above 1500 rpm in 1-3 gear and 1750 in 4 and 5. On the highway where does the engine like to spin at? Does it mind 1800-1900 rpm. Looking at my gears and tires and that is where I expect it will be.

Once again, great job

TDIwyse

Thanks for the nice words.

The jeep had been used with a snow plow for several years and the front springs were sagging a bit even with the inline 6 gasoline engine (which is no light weight). Bought some leaf spring helpers (half leaf type) from the parts store for about $30 which helped. A couple months ago I bought some heavy duty oem front leaf springs and they are doing great so far. The spec sheet I have says the total weight (with intake and exhaust manifolds, turbo, starter, etc.) is 567 lbs.

The engine is extremely smooth above 1700 rpms's with the new engine mounts. At 1600 at full throttle it's hard to see out the rear view mirror due to some vibrations. The manual says you can spend 30 secs at full throttle below the torque peak but no more. I keep it above 1600 except for brief periods while shifting to the next gear. Even before I modified the fueling parameters the engine had no trouble keeping the jeep going at 70-75mph down the interstate and up the hills without down shifting. There was one hill around here that was on a 55mph road that was extremely steep that the jeep would lose some speed and settle at 1600 rpm at about 58 mph midway up the hill and hold its speed at that point. Now I can keep accelerating up in 5th with no problems.

I've been doing some tests with running in 4th gear at 1900-2000 rpm (instead of 5th at 1600 rpm) for the portion of my drive to work that is on county roads. The 4th gear runs seem to be returning slightly better fuel economy but it's a bit premature to say for certain. The spec'd brake specific fuel consumption (BSFC) is 0.357 lb/hp-hr at 1600 and 0.393 at 2600 (can only find data for those two rpm points). This is pretty close to my VW's engine. So if the jeep needs 30hp to push it down the road that's about 39 mpg. At 40hp it's about 29.5mpg. From my fuel mileage logs it appears I'm needing about 40 hp to move my jeep back and forth to work.