73 Crew Cab 2nd Gen
#32
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Thread Starter
I'm still waiting for cab mounts and a stupid body lift to arrive in the mail. I hate body lifts, but I need the extra room for the fuel tank, transmission to tunnel clearance and it should make stuffing the 2nd gen radiator, IC and A/C condenser behind the early front grill a little easier.
#34
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#35
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Thread Starter
Thanks guys! So far, I'm into this conversion 7 days. Hopefully next week, I'll have the fuel tank in and have her running. Still have to figure out the rear drive shaft...1 piece vs 2 piece. It's going to be roughly about 72" long
#36
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Ive ordered a lot of parts for this project (door seals, weather stripping, tail lights, wiring etc.) from LMC truck. Somebody there took the time to hand write a thank you card. It wasn't some generic pre-printed, everybody gets one type of deal, so it actually meant a little something to me. I will be ordering from them again in the future for most of my needs, just because they've been so good to deal with.
#37
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Thread Starter
Today I'm drilling out the rivets on the 2nd Gen fuel tank cross members. I'm hoping that I can reuse them on my frame as well as the 2nd Gen fuel tank.
#41
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Thread Starter
My biggest problem I'm having is the fuel tank. The 2nd gen single cab long bed is way too tall, even with the 3" body lift. I'm not really sure how to tackle this.
Option 1. Use a 1st gen tank. Can I use this with a P-pump motor? Would I use the 1st or 2nd gen sending unit? If I used the 1st gen unit, would the fuel lines directly hook up to it?
Option 2. Try a 2nd gen short bed tank. Not sure if the size/capacity would be any different between a QCSB or single cab long bed.
Option 3. Use my original In-Cab tank (behind the back seat) and try to do some magic for fuel line hook ups.
Option 4. Use a Ramcharger tank. And change out even more cross members. same questions as option #1
I can't get a used tank from the junkyard, because here in Southern California, they punch big holes in them to drain them out. I have to rely on Craig and Evilbay.
Option 1. Use a 1st gen tank. Can I use this with a P-pump motor? Would I use the 1st or 2nd gen sending unit? If I used the 1st gen unit, would the fuel lines directly hook up to it?
Option 2. Try a 2nd gen short bed tank. Not sure if the size/capacity would be any different between a QCSB or single cab long bed.
Option 3. Use my original In-Cab tank (behind the back seat) and try to do some magic for fuel line hook ups.
Option 4. Use a Ramcharger tank. And change out even more cross members. same questions as option #1
I can't get a used tank from the junkyard, because here in Southern California, they punch big holes in them to drain them out. I have to rely on Craig and Evilbay.
#42
Registered User
Thread Starter
Is there an Option #5 for tank choices? I'd like to have a minimum of 30 gallons and I don't want to lose anymore bed space. I've already got the stacks and a 48" Ridgid toolbox in a short bed.
#43
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Thread Starter
Since I don't have a tank that fits yet, I've decided to see what I can do with the core support. It looks like I might be able to combine the 95 and early core supports to make 1 that works.
#44
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Thread Starter
Well, I got the old Dana 60 rear axle out. Loaded up all of my scrap steel onto the trailer, cleaned up the shop (aka my patio), and pressure washed everything so it doesn't look like a junkyard, and we can have people over again. My wife is a lot happier now.
#45
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Thread Starter
Tomorrow's to-do list is to install the 2nd Gen Dana 70 and install the fuel tank cross members. I ended up using a heat gun to flatten out the front most bulge in the 2nd Gen SCLB tank. It works for now, but I'll be looking for a 34 gallon Cummins short bed tank (98+) in the future.