DJENSEN9367

i have been following this thread and i guess i am one of the lucky ones. i am 4000 miles into a 7500 mile nationwide trip, the factory brake is working perfectly with my 8500 lb 24ft enclosed trailer.

I have used a prodigy (it is under my rear seat as a backup), i used a brakesmart for two years before i switched to a maxbrake (like the way it sets up better) about two years ago. i tow 25 to 30k every year. i was concerned before leaving on this trip (after reading this thread) that the factory brake was going to let me down. Well, it has been tested by every condition you will run into on a trip like this and i have to say it is every bit as good as my maxbrake was (i still like the setup on the maxbrake better), will be selling my maxbrake when i get back in a couple of weeks. maybe they have a few bad units out but mine is excellent. i can understand the prodigy guys as they are used to the big brake hit which is not how a good brake system works, it should all be smooth as with a good integrated controller. prodigy is good for what it is but nowhere close to this type of system. hope you all get your problems figured out. i won't be towing my 35' for several months but i am sure it will work just as wll.

signature600

See, if I was only pulling 8500 lbs, I doubt I would have any issues whatsoever....but my trailer weighs almost that empty!! Unless I haul a lawn mower, anything I load weighs at least 10K, and most of the time we haul closer to 20K on the trailer.


Pulling my bumper pull, with a 10K lb load, it works a lot better...but loading it like normal with the big trailer, brakes suck!

I'll probably be getting my dealer to install a MAxxBrake...on their dime
Chris

sheriffav8r

Do you guys have pure electric or electric over hydraulic trailer brake systems? I seem to remember the Dodge gurus saying that there may be issues if you have any hydraulics in your system with this OEM brake controller....

signature600

Pure electric...brakes are good, adjusted up, and work great with the Chevy's we pull them with, brake controllers in those set at 5-7 depending on load.

My Dodge stays on 10...useless!!
Chris

DSLBURNER

Just thought I would bring this back from the dead.
There was a large number of trucks that were sent out with out the brake controller properly configured. The dealer can fix it.
It is the same process as if a customer bought the IBC from the dealer as an accessory and had it installed.
Still can not confirm if elec over hyd brakes work. Maybe someone else knows.

signature600

Any idea what I should tell them to get them to fix it?

Chris

BobTipton

....but still having the same issue. Took the camper to have bearings packed/inspected as well as brakes inspected and brake wiring checked. All checked out good. RV tech hooked a brake tester box to the 7-pin, we started the truck and jiggled the wire he had connected to the plug and it set off that d**n chime. Took the truck to the dealer and told them what I had had done - they tested and then told me that the plug was bad. They ordered it and replaced it last week. This past weekend we went camping for the weekend and guess what? Still chimes and tells me the trailer brakes are disconnected! Then EVIC will say trailer brakes connected, then it will chime and tell me the trailer brakes are disconnected. So, after having camper checked and plug replaced on the truck, it still has the same problem. So, if there is a configuration available for this, what do I need to tell the dealer? It's obvious that they have no idea what to do....

Thanks,
Bob

DSLBURNER

That is the symptoms of it not working...it just about drove me nuts. I will ask and see if I can get the steps.

Darnme2000

Sorry for the late update, The new controller seems to work just fine now. I do have to run it on a higher setting than my old truck and there seems to be a fine line between 'just enough' and 'too much' but once i got it adjusted out I havent had any other complaints. Crossing fingers it continues to work well. BTW, I have dual axle all electric brakes.

BobTipton

That would be very much appreciated - we're scheduled to leave here (northeast Tennessee) headed to Utah on vacation on September 9th. I'd hate to think I have to put up with that non-stop chime all the way there and back!

Thanks again,
Bob

DSLBURNER

Ya that chime makes you eant to wear earplugs.

I just talked to the service manager, and he told me they just replaced the controller with a new one and it worked. He said there is a process to configure, but the truck showed that it already was configured so they just replaced controller.
He also said there was no diference in controllers, but the new one just worked.
As strange as it sounds, I would unplug the controller and just plug it back in again and see if it works. Do this with they key off, then try again with the key in the run position and see if the truck shows any lights during the process. I know it sounds crazy, but you never know. Otherwise get the dealer to replace the controller.

gibby560

Has anyone had the issue of the factory controller not being progressive enough, i.e. siting at a light and trying to roll, then touch the brakes and the trailer just grabs and stops. I have two 2011 work trucks and they both do this. The Fords we run work flawlessly and just wished the Dodge worked the same way. Other than this issue absolutely love the Dodge trucks over the Fords.

signature600

Yep...mine does the same thing

Chris

BobTipton

What's the best way to get access to the plug on the back of the controller?

Thanks,

Bob

txhawg

So, there is a TSB for this?