Grit Dog

Anyone out there runnin around with original brakes on their 3rd Gen, it's probably time to change them whether they look wore out or not, especially if you live anywhere near the rust belt.
Just changed out my brake pads. 130kmi. Did the fronts at about 70kmi and they had a little life left in them this time, probably another 10-20k depending.
Rears were original and looked ok from the outside pad and the top of the pads, about like the fronts did.
I had a squeal from one of the indicators though for a while.
What I found was the inside pads, the shim plate on the back of the backing plate had rusted completely through. Caused the inside pads to wear more towards the bottom and less on top. Was just about metal on metal.

The pads should have still been ok had they not rusted out, so check yers if you are still on the originals.
Mine has seen 4 real winters and 3 years on the wet side of WA so not a ton of salt or mag on the roads and were done. The shim plates looked like they had been rusted out for a year or 2.
The fronts were also beginning to rust through the backer shims as well.

Shorts

Your reminder is another string tugging on my leg to do my brakes (85k). Been feeling a slight grinding for a couple weeks now up front

What else did you replace? Rotors? Calipers & hoses?

I've got the Mopar value pads on the shelf already.

seafish

FYI, the Mopar "Value" line are not near as good as the oem "premium" pads that come on the truck and you will not get NEAR the lifetime and performance out of them that you have come to expect from your original brakes.

I got 100k out of the oem pads on my truck, driving loaded and towing 25% of the time, and then replaced them with the original premium pads. Were the premium pads expensive compared to other alternatives?? Sure they were, but I cannot argue at all with 100k mile brake pad changes or the fact that my oem rotors were barely worn, not warped or uneven at all and good to go for another 100k without even turning them. I DID take the rotors in to a trustworthy brake shop for inspection and mic, but they said put em right back on, NO turing necessary. I have driven another 10k since, and zero problems with either the new pads or old rotors…no squeal, no chatter, minimal dust, and solid brake performance towing or not. I simply cannot find a reason to replace them with anything else, but have NOT heard the same about the "value" line, which are NOT in the same range of quality.

If interested, part # for the premium pads are--

05093267AA full set--FRONT Disc Brake Pads

05093257AA full set--REAR Disc Brake Pads

Shorts

How much of not as long can I expect?
I have three sets given to me for free.

seafish

Well thats kind of a diffent story, but I have heard roughly 50% difference which kinda makes sense cause they are roughly half the price, though in your case, they were infinitely cheaper (LOL), except for the time and/or labor necessary to install them twice versus once.

I am also NOT saying that they will wear toyu r rotors differently either then the premium pads, but just relating what I and others have experienced with the premium pads versus what I have only read about the value line. For me it was a no brainer and I am happy to used the oem pads for the brake job. For you, it's probably a no brainer to use the three sets of free pads, though you might want to ask the guy who gave them to you what HE used INSTEAD…JK, LOL…probably sold the truck and didn't need them anymore.

Heres a thread that had feedback from guys who are taking about the same thing.
It's six years oils, but you can bet that the Value line has not gotten any better in the meantime..lol

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-v-oem-253230/

Shorts

I'm not so worried about it.

FastTaco

I got 135k on my stock pads and still have a bit left. Probably going to change them this summer because the rotors need turning, they pulse pretty bad.

Adaminak

165K miles and my pads are still thicker than the new pads I just put on my wife's Mazda. I think at this point it's time to replace them just because it doesn't seem right not to...

Grit Dog

After 3 winters in the CO mtns and 1 in AK I wouldn't have guessed that the backing shims would have been completely KO'd but they were and one side was about to cause some rotor damage.
Truck is a 6 speed and was predominantly a kid carrier, wife driven, mostly mountains, no downshifting, kick er to neutral and step on the middle pedal to stop....
I attribute this to the short lived front pads. Rears would still have a bunch of miles left if not for being rusted out causing uneven wear.
Probably a good time to see how easy the caliper retaining bolts come out too! When I seen that they were little like 5/16" bolts, I removed all of them and anti seized them which made for easy removal yesterday!

Grit Dog

Nope, nada. Original rotors are in good shape, not pulsing or warped, no cracking and everything is working well.
I didn't even prep them as I bought EBC brake pads and they come with a break in coating on the pad (like sandpaper) to prep the rotors for bed in of the new pads.
I've never had rotors turned "just because" when doing brake jobs but I typically scuff the rotors up real good when replacing pads. Of course I learned from an old guy who began repairing cars during the Depression (the Great Depression, not Obamas attempt, lol) who was a firm believer in not fixing what aint broke.

JThiessen

I am in the process of replacing my pads/rotors - 110K/11 years.
One reason I found to do this more often, is that the rotors have almost completely rusted themselves onto the hub. What a PIA.....Tried to use the power steering with a brace block, but just ended up with a steering wheel sitting upside down (not sure if this is an indication of a problem with my power steering system or not).
My caliper is pretty much shot - even the supposedly stainless cups inside it have significant rusting. Probably going to invest in all new hardware - caliper/caliper support, spring clips, etc. They are cheap enough to not sweat the price.

death row dave

28 k on mime ! Yes I said 28k front ujoints , upper ball joints , front dust shields Front and rear pads rusted to junk no return . Dealer said sorry about your luck . After I replaced every piece , I drove to the dealer to raise hell , service manager says I'm sorry I was thinking you said 128K , everything was covered if only 28k , bastards !

Mexstan

Still have the original pads on the rear with about 40% left. On my third set of front pads. Never turned a rotor and have zero pedal pulsing. No rust anywhere, including the dust shields. Do downshift a lot to slow down and use the exhaust brake daily and frequently.

No rust anywhere on my truck as it has never seen salt and also I live in a semi arid climate.

FLMarine

Currently at 230k on my truck since buying it new. I tow several trailers often including a 3k lb trailer without brakes and from the orginal brake pads I got 110k from the front and 180k from the rear. Replaced both with OEM brake pads and currently at about 110k on the the front pads and they have plenty of life left. Still on the original rotors even after I had a caliper lock up on me. Lucky I noticed it and was only a couple of miles from a dealership and got it fixed. No rust on my brakes and I have lived in FL and NC.