thaimonkee

My A/C doesnt work. I dont know if it worked when I bought the truck used. Anyways I bought some freon in a can to recharge the system to see if there are any leaks, but I need to know where the low side service port is. I have a 2008 6.7L. Any help would be great.

1-2-3

On the passenger side, near the firewall. There's only two ac lines and only one fitting that will fit your refill kit. Just follow the lines, you'll get there eventually.

firestorm

Mine is at the shop right now, getting a new evaporator, dryer, and probe installed. Then, I get to bring her home, and do ball joints.

1-2-3

An 03 4X4. I recommend PB Blaster and some very tough tools to separate those ball joints. Those buggers are gonna be in there.

firestorm

I know I want the grease-able ball joints, but I have a question. According to the local parts house, there is an adjustable, and non-adjustable. Which way to go, and are they interchangeable?

torquefan

You don't want the adjustables unless you have a big alignment problem you are trying to compensate for (or hide). The trouble is they don't have a default position, so it will be impossible to set them to the original setting.

1-2-3

All of the adjustables I've seen are for the top only. Also, nobody carries the uppers locally, just the upper control arm with a joint in it already. That will be a full alignment once you go that route. Be ready to replace other things in there. Then again, your 4X4 so what I found won't apply.

thaimonkee

Found it. It was on a silver canister. I tried using the freOn cans from parts store. The compressor does not kick on. Before just slapping a new compressor on it what could i check?

firestorm

If the system is not charged enough, the compressor won't come on. Mine took 2 big cans, plus a small can. Then, it worked for about a week. After checking the system, I found the evaporator was shot. Dodge wanted $243 for the evaporator, discount auto was $120. Dodge is doing my truck now, along with 4 recalls that were missed. PCM plug, steering linkage, trans cooler, and something else.

1-2-3

If it needs refrigerant, then there IS a leak. 99.999999999999999% of the time it will be an evap core. It's a bear to change so plan on putting a new heater core in there too or you will seriously regret not doing so now. If you do it yourself, (it's a big job) you'll sink $300-500 into it. if a shop does it, you will be in the $800 and up range.

SpeedyWS6

There are a lot of things you need to check first.... If you are attaching a can of freon to the low side port and the compressor will not engage it doesn't sound like a low charge is the problem.

Modern a/c systems are pretty tough to do without a good scan tool. To properly diagnose you need to see what the pressure sensor is reading compared to an actual gage on the high side port. Also need to check for codes in the system.

Crank the truck with the a/c off and have somebody watch the compressor clutch when the a/c button is pressed. If the compressor engages for about three seconds and then goes back off there are probably codes stored and the computer wont let the a/c run. Most of the time it ends up being the evap temp senor. Your lucky that yours is an 08 if it turns out to be that sensor.

Edit: a code reader is not going to be able to pull codes or read data for the a/c

thaimonkee

Great. More money that i didnt want to spend on this truck.
Where is the evap located? How do you diagnose the evap?
If someone has a service manual what is the voltage supposed to be going to the compressor. I want to make sure its getting power.

1-2-3

There are no ac codes. The OBD system has no connection to the ac. There will never be codes.

However, if you don't know what your doing, ac systems can be very dangerous. If there is no leak and you add more, you will severely overcharge the system. An over charged system will also not cool and function correctly. You really need a full set of gauges to see what both sides.

Two examples of this: a guy I work with has a Jeep that wouldn't cool good. He got a can of 134, but after putting some gauges on it, I told him that it was fully charged and didnt feel like we should add any more. he still wasnt happy with it. A few months later, while he was fixing an issue with his radio, he found the vacuum line to his blend door motor pinched, keeping it from closing off the heat. Fixing that one simple thing fixed his ac. Another truck I looked at that wouldn't cool, I fixed by letting a ton of 134 out. His was just way over charged, causing the surface temp of the evap to be very warm.

The advice above to watch the compressor run is a good start. You don't need a helper. Just start it up, put it on high with the windows down then look. If it constantly cycles then it's low. Also most of the time, the low side line will sweat at a full charge and moisture will drain out of the drip tube.

AC work can be tough, expensive, and a guessing game. I was lucky to have a guy that's done it for 50 plus years teach me a whole lot of stuff. You can do some reading and educate yourself pretty well about it but remember everything online isn't always correct. When i had my 99, I went thru alot of talk on here about ac stuff. Use Google advanced search to find some of it.

thaimonkee

Thanks for the help. I appreciate any guidance.
As for the compressir it does not kick on at all when the truck is runnning. Whats the next step?

SpeedyWS6

LOL, really?

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/4th-gen-...ine-codes.html