Bradleyras

HA! I pulled my dash apart and followed the instructions in the OP and HA HAHAHAHHAHHAHHAHAHAH HAHAHHAAH HHAHAHAHAHHA it worked! And the Dodge Edit said there was no way to fix it other than to pay them $600 to order and install a new instrument cluster. Chumps. They also said it was a 5 hour job.

I ended up ordering a new face and lens since min was cracked ($120 shipped-OEM). Can't wait for it to get here so I can but the truck back together.

Bradleyras

Looks like the previous owner used a harsh degreaser to clean the instrument lens and scrubbed too hard. The bottom edges are cracked.

GhettoVaquero

worked for me!!

steelblitzkrieg

I took way too much apart due to a poor YouTube video. Pop radio bezel off after removing lower knee panel below steering and cluster is five screws from removal. Should have taken me 20 minutes at most.

It fixed my 200 rpm idle.

mikenjapan

I had a weird experience with my tach this weekend. It has been messed up for a while and I haven't bothered to fix it yet. It even went all of the way around and hit the peg. I got it unstuck by getting into it and getting the RPM's up. Then it died completely. While jumping a zero turn mower with it a few days ago the jumper cables touched each other for a few seconds. After that the tach started working again and seems to be fixed. Weird......

Bradleyras

*************ATTENTION***************

DO NOT....I repeat.....DO NOT remove your instrument cluster without first disconnecting your batteries.

While I had my cluster mask & lens on my kitchen counter, I ran out to put my truck windows up because it had started to rain. Turning the ignition on without the cluster plugged in FRIED the motherboard in my ECM....

see this post for more info on the symptoms of a fried ECM:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...f-t318807.html

RiverRat2

Mine has been Idling about 200-300 RPM Low,, will have to give it a try

scoutman

About 6 months ago I had performed the refloating of the solder on the pins on the back of the circuit board and it worked great for a month or so. Then it was back to the old possessed tack again. I'll have to go back and try this to see if that finishes the job.

mikenjapan

I refloated my solder several months ago and shimmed with no problems and I drive on a rough dirt road 5 days a week.

Bama1659

I did as described and had a working tach when i plugged in the cluster seperate from the housing. It was a pain to get the connectors back off and I whacked the cluster kind of hard on the steering wheell by accident. When I put everything back together as described leaving the tach side without screws besides the outter edge, the tach did not work correctly but it did work better if there is such a thing. Now my speedometer is acting up as well but it was fine before. Could I have messed something up internally? I do not want to purchase a new one if I do not need to. Should I refloAt solder? If so, which chips for the speedometer? I guess I cant do anymore damage than I already have so i figured it is worth a shot. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!

fallinfreak192

I know this is an old thread, but I just did this yesterday and it did in fact work! Thanks!!

scoutman

Did you float the solder AND shim the board? Thanks for the reminder, I need to dig back into mine.

Brandon Walters

Just tried this out with a little help from a youtube video, so far working perfect!
My buddy had an issue where his rpm needle was doing weird stuff, dropping to 0, flying all over the place and then eventually just getting to the other side of the stopper and staying there. He said sometimes it even went backwards when accellerating. So i did some research and came across this, and whatt'ya know, work fine! Here's exactly what i did.
Took off all the bezels, took out the instrument cluster, took off all the screws holding the black circuit board cover on, took the circuit board witht the guages to the truck, plugged it up, hooked the battery back up, worked just like it should. So disconnected the battery, took it back to the bench, put the circuit board w/ guages back in the cover, installed all the outter most screws, then put all the screws in around the speedometer/oil press/ engine temp guages, ended up with 5 or 6 screws not installed. Took it back to the truck and plugged it in, connected the batteries, started the truck up, worked fine. Put everything back together and went for a test drive, not a single issue yet. Worked perfectly.
Definitely a strange fix for the issue. But worked nonetheless!

scoutman

I got around to doing this about a month back and it went from a totally useless tach to about 95% fixed the problem. What I notice now is an occasional 1-200 rpm jump (up or down). It doesn't happen very often but I catch it doing it out of the corner of my eye.

I guess the next time I pull my dash apart I need to take more screws out.

motrapper

Finally got Off my **** and did it this afternoon worked as described.

Thank You