Thoughts: Fixed geometry turbo for 6.7L engine
#1
Thoughts: Fixed geometry turbo for 6.7L engine
Okay guys, here goes .... sorry for the long post. I've been lurking for a while since the weather has been great and my Can Am Commander has been the toy of choice this year.
The turbo in my '08 (just shy of 58k miles) is now showing major signs that the vanes are sticking. Sometimes I get no boost or low boost (boosts to maybe 8 psi max) and most times it will surge from around 10 psi and shoots to 25 to 30 psi. I've run it with the EB on since I bought it new, and use the H&S MiniMaxx on a non-deleted tow tune to monitor the basics.
Called the dealer and he's quoting right around $4100 for a new turbo ($400-ish for the install, $3700-ish for the turbo) but if I'm going to be in the same boat in another 50k miles then I don't want to spend it.
After talking to three dealers in the area, they're not recommending the cleaning anymore since they're all saying the failure rate is 80% or greater, and people are not wanting to spend the $300 to $450 for the cleaning port tap and chemical since it's just not working.
Has anyone ever thought of using a fixed geometry turbo? Realizing the worst case scenario is I might lose my stock exhaust brake, I've considered replacing it with a PacBrake if need be since I already have onboard air (currently 5 gallons at 175psi, upgrading to a new 10 gallon tank at the same pressure) and while it might cost a bit more, the plus side is the PacBrake should give me more braking power over the stock EB.
Thoughts?
-Kris
The turbo in my '08 (just shy of 58k miles) is now showing major signs that the vanes are sticking. Sometimes I get no boost or low boost (boosts to maybe 8 psi max) and most times it will surge from around 10 psi and shoots to 25 to 30 psi. I've run it with the EB on since I bought it new, and use the H&S MiniMaxx on a non-deleted tow tune to monitor the basics.
Called the dealer and he's quoting right around $4100 for a new turbo ($400-ish for the install, $3700-ish for the turbo) but if I'm going to be in the same boat in another 50k miles then I don't want to spend it.
After talking to three dealers in the area, they're not recommending the cleaning anymore since they're all saying the failure rate is 80% or greater, and people are not wanting to spend the $300 to $450 for the cleaning port tap and chemical since it's just not working.
Has anyone ever thought of using a fixed geometry turbo? Realizing the worst case scenario is I might lose my stock exhaust brake, I've considered replacing it with a PacBrake if need be since I already have onboard air (currently 5 gallons at 175psi, upgrading to a new 10 gallon tank at the same pressure) and while it might cost a bit more, the plus side is the PacBrake should give me more braking power over the stock EB.
Thoughts?
-Kris
#3
I was overseas when I bought it, and didn't want the wife to try to get it un-deleted while I was away.
Now that I'm home, the plan is to either get the turbo working or just replace it, then do the deletes.
-Kris
Now that I'm home, the plan is to either get the turbo working or just replace it, then do the deletes.
-Kris
#4
"California Style"
That sounds like a good plan. I would stay with the stock turbo and then delete it. Hopefully, you can clean and salvage it. I tend to think the information you got was about cleaning the turbo and then having it still live a decent life with the emmissions that killed it in the first place. Try cleaning it and deleting if possible.
#5
Thanks!
If I can find some of the last image files for the H&S MiniMaxx then I want to see if I can do the EGR delete. I know it'll do the DPF, but I've not had any issues with it and have the delete pipe ready.
-Kris
If I can find some of the last image files for the H&S MiniMaxx then I want to see if I can do the EGR delete. I know it'll do the DPF, but I've not had any issues with it and have the delete pipe ready.
-Kris
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